A/C condenser Questions
#21
Do you guys have an extractor of any type in your hood? It worked absolute wonders for me both stopped and at speed- all in the cooper scooper thread.
#22
get some good ducting in there, get the radiator cover up top, put an undertray in (OEM undertray not only protects the moving parts up front, it is also designed for, and is VERY effective at forcing more air through your radiator while moving) and make sure that both of your radiator fans are quality pieces and are working properly.
#23
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I don't know in the case of the Miata but in her car it was right behind the a/c buttons. I think your case is totally different because your blows air on the 3 & 4 positions. If I had to guess I would say your a/c is somehow disconnected when in those positions. It sure is weird.
#24
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Do you guys have an extractor of any type in your hood? It worked absolute wonders for me both stopped and at speed- all in the cooper scooper thread.
I spoke to a local drifter who races a Sylvia and he told me his car used to overheat and the hood scoop he installed has made all the difference in the world. He even told me he's going to install the thermostat back because his temps are too low.
One thing I'm noticing is that temps (even with 1 fan working only) are low. The only thing we did was take all the coolant out and put some coolant in and bleed the system thoroughly. I'm starting to think that part of my problem was air in the system.
I can't try the a/c yet but as soon as I put in the new fan I'll try it and get back to you.
Many thanks again for your assistance
#25
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get some good ducting in there, get the radiator cover up top, put an undertray in (OEM undertray not only protects the moving parts up front, it is also designed for, and is VERY effective at forcing more air through your radiator while moving) and make sure that both of your radiator fans are quality pieces and are working properly.
I've tuned my car for coolant temps. What I mean is that even my spark map has been tuned for the lowest coolant temps possible and not for the most hp.
In my particular case, the undertray would be as expensive (maybe more) as a hood scoop. I'd rather try the hood scoop but thanks for your input.
BTW, I found out I do have the radiator cover on
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I think I have to try the hood scoop.
#29
The hood EXTRACTOR would- it would reduce pressure at speed AND vent the heat under the hood whether the fans were running or not. That's what I've seen. But I wouldn't start messing with a hood until you've addressed the sealing of the mouth and the undertray - if only in the interest of time/money. You might find that those two things fix the problem. The undertray is a BIG component in effective cooling at speed. I ran a stock Miata w/o it and at 100mph the started to look like it was ballooning. That's a lot of pressure on the wrong side of the exchangers, not to mention a big boat anchor to drag.
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The hood EXTRACTOR would- it would reduce pressure at speed AND vent the heat under the hood whether the fans were running or not. That's what I've seen. But I wouldn't start messing with a hood until you've addressed the sealing of the mouth and the undertray - if only in the interest of time/money. You might find that those two things fix the problem. The undertray is a BIG component in effective cooling at speed. I ran a stock Miata w/o it and at 100mph the started to look like it was ballooning. That's a lot of pressure on the wrong side of the exchangers, not to mention a big boat anchor to drag.
Thanks Rob.
#32
Define cavitation, then after you've looked it up you'll know why what you said doesn't make sense.
(hint, it has to do with speed of impellers, not water)
Edit: Granted, I'm certainly not saying that removing the thermostat is a good idea. I don't think it is. I just highly doubt the water pump is spinning fast enough to cause cavitation.
Hey, I could be wrong too.
#36
O RLY?
Define cavitation, then after you've looked it up you'll know why what you said doesn't make sense.
(hint, it has to do with speed of impellers, not water)
Edit: Granted, I'm certainly not saying that removing the thermostat is a good idea. I don't think it is. I just highly doubt the water pump is spinning fast enough to cause cavitation.
Hey, I could be wrong too.
Define cavitation, then after you've looked it up you'll know why what you said doesn't make sense.
(hint, it has to do with speed of impellers, not water)
Edit: Granted, I'm certainly not saying that removing the thermostat is a good idea. I don't think it is. I just highly doubt the water pump is spinning fast enough to cause cavitation.
Hey, I could be wrong too.
#37
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I would never run without a thermostat. A properly functioning thermostat will not cause a car to overheat.
An unsealed bumper mouth will contribute to overheating much more quickly. The sealing helps to keep the hot air from circling back around through the radiator again and again. It only allows cooler air from out in front of the car to enter the radiator and not hot air from under the car. The sealing also promotes a lower pressure area behind the radiator than in front of it which aids in airflow through the radiator when moving. Mazda didn't spend all of the money and time designing, building, and installing all of that plastic for no reason. They are far too cheap than to waste resources on something that wasn't necessary.
An unsealed bumper mouth will contribute to overheating much more quickly. The sealing helps to keep the hot air from circling back around through the radiator again and again. It only allows cooler air from out in front of the car to enter the radiator and not hot air from under the car. The sealing also promotes a lower pressure area behind the radiator than in front of it which aids in airflow through the radiator when moving. Mazda didn't spend all of the money and time designing, building, and installing all of that plastic for no reason. They are far too cheap than to waste resources on something that wasn't necessary.
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I'm not really sure what you don't understand about my statement but it sounds like the OP is having trouble with high temps at higher rpms and not at idle when the water pump is spinning relatively slowly. He could try gutting a $7 thermostat... or not. I'm not sure if it'll help, just trying to knock out the simple stuff first. I'm sure sealing every seam in the nose or getting a new hood/fabricating a scoop is easier though.
Thanks for your input anyways.
#39
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I would never run without a thermostat. A properly functioning thermostat will not cause a car to overheat.
An unsealed bumper mouth will contribute to overheating much more quickly. The sealing helps to keep the hot air from circling back around through the radiator again and again. It only allows cooler air from out in front of the car to enter the radiator and not hot air from under the car. The sealing also promotes a lower pressure area behind the radiator than in front of it which aids in airflow through the radiator when moving. Mazda didn't spend all of the money and time designing, building, and installing all of that plastic for no reason. They are far too cheap than to waste resources on something that wasn't necessary.
An unsealed bumper mouth will contribute to overheating much more quickly. The sealing helps to keep the hot air from circling back around through the radiator again and again. It only allows cooler air from out in front of the car to enter the radiator and not hot air from under the car. The sealing also promotes a lower pressure area behind the radiator than in front of it which aids in airflow through the radiator when moving. Mazda didn't spend all of the money and time designing, building, and installing all of that plastic for no reason. They are far too cheap than to waste resources on something that wasn't necessary.
I hear what you say about sealing the front bumper of the car but I've read some threads about it and I'm not sure I could do a good job and I think the hood scoop will be easier to do (at least down here).
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