hustler

iTrader: (6)

How do you power 3 gauges, lc-1, boost controller, knockcontroller, and radar detector? I'm thinking about running a spst relay off the main fuse power as a central "+" distribution block with a fuse behind the distribution point.

any thoughts on my general paranoia?

y8s

iTrader: (8)

I run it all off the ECU power... cuz that's where the hydra plugs in.

I think gauges get power from the stereo though.

None of it really draws a LOT of power but if you want to run, say, a 10GA wire fused near the battery then you could.

Just dont put the fuse more than a foot away from the batt. I accidentally vaporized a 4ga wire in my trunk once. that was almost a huge disaster. as it was it just smoked and stunk a lot. the copper was *gone*.

Kelly

iTrader: (6)

You have the right idea Hustler.

LunaticDriver

When you figure it out post it up cus im in the same boat yo!

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I believe the safest, most simple answer is apparent.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

I just run lines from the battery on up to the front of the car works for me

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

I took an unused 12V line for the power windows that I don't have. Just stuck a blade terminal into the stock power window plug under the console.

For gauge lighting I used the line from the cup holder light which never worked with a **** anyways. It turns on with the parking lamps.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Higher load, add-ons come from the main post in the under hood fuse block. Low load (like the gauges) is pulled from the stereo lead- though in my case the stereo isn't pulling much load either.

What's critical with the gauges is isolating your grounds to avoid getting altered/funky readings.

steelrat

Actually, I'm thinking about running a fused relay circuit from the batter to where the ECU is behind the pax seat. I've got the WB controller to go in, EM, and the autotune.... so I figure putting a good 12 source back there will be a good idea....

What would you guys use for the distrobution block though? Just feed off the one connection from the relay? Or would a "real" distro block be the better idea? Suggestions?

Dave,

Ben

iTrader: (33)

If you're going to that much trouble, just use the ECU +12V to trigger the relay, and bring the big fatty hot wire to the ECU. Then use the ECU's original 14ga hot wire to power your accessories (as well as the relay coil). Uses the same amount of material and effort, but upgrades everything. Don't forget to upgrade the grounds too.

Ben

Ben

iTrader: (33)

You can buy a small fuse panel from the parts store for a few bucks. Put each device on its own fuse. So if an accessory shorts, you still have power at the ecu. Which is good.

steelrat

Good call, thanks Ben..... I'll see what I can get.

Dave,

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

I use the 30A blue connector wire (was on the same circuit as my now non-existant heater fan).