18psi

iTrader: (76)

Seriously awesome thread. This should be stickied.

Can someone confirm I'm not going full retard? I'm looking for the PINS for the VVT connector.

I see this:
http://www.newunitedracetech.com/sho...19_36_68_39_41

but it's got like 3 different pins listed underneath the connector. Which one do I want?
Or is the only difference between them the metal they are made from?
I am looking at the right connector right? For the VVT OCV?

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

The short answer is get them from Ballenger - they have it all and spelled out nicely.

And/or try the spreadsheet at home. :-) I don't know the difference between the pins. Perhaps the folks at NURT know, if you find out, post it!

asmasm

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, Ballenger has been really helpful. I know I have seen this posted somewhere but I can't find it here or on their site. Can someone recommend a crimp tool that works well with the sumitomo terminals and is around $100?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

The one I have from eastern beaver works well. it takes a long time and a lot of hand effort because you have to crimp each terminal a total of 4-5 times to get a good crimp and it doesnt ratchet. I honestly wish I got a much better crimper to begin with but $500 was hard to stomach back then.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

That, and the wire size which the pins are rated to attach to. The 7534 pin is rated for 16-22ga, the other two are rated for 20-22. Generally speaking, contacts with a very broad range (16-22) are more difficult to attach to wires on the thinner end of their rating scale, so if you intend to use the pins with 20-22ga wire, choose the 7538 pins.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Joe, your emergency link doesn't look so good, at least on chrome/win7.

After all the time I spent driving myself buggy for crimpers and pins, "just for now" I did the pigtail thing with used connectors and they've worked wonderfully. Given the effort and the cost of a good tool, I think I would go the pig-tail route. You can solder two wires together and put shrink wrap on pretty well, a number of new sensors have come that way and it's all been dandy.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

?

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Huh, works now. Maybe it was just one bad image, though I suspect smugmug.

I hope you're getting government funds to support your daring, but needed, work.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Thanks guys, I'm set

vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

Dedicated Miata page is here:
Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics

The relevant portion is here:
Variable Valve Timing Connector (VVT) & NA EVAP Cannister

Mazda Miata VVT Connector (CONN-100449)
Mazda Miata VVT Connector Kit (CONN-75734)
Mazda Miata VVT Connector Pigtail (CONN-85734)

Just the terminals are CONN-11856, the seals are CONN-00145. The connector, connector kit and pigtail links all spell out the mating / associated components.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Oh snap, thanks man. Looks like Ballenger is quickly becoming the exclusive go-to place for all our wiring needs. Very convenient.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, but he never drives out and installs it for you. :-(

Seriously, it's VERY awesome you're setting up your shop with useful information and having the parts!! It's a shame the shipping overhead is so high, I've have ordered a lot of stuff along the way instead of waiting for the One Big Order if the barrier to entry were a little lower... But that's a business call and digging out individual pins is a big PITA, so I get it.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

How long till we have a complete wiring hardness repair or replacement kit?

vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

No problem! We track a turbo NB and work with a lot of customers. The list still needs some updating and clarification. We still need to go through the original google spreadsheet fully.

The goal is to have a one-stop place for the Miata and some other vehicle applications as it can be so hard for customers to sort through the mess of information on the web.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

Has anyone run across the 90~93 AFM connector? Not the one that plugs into the AFM, but the one mounted to the AFM body.

Zaphod

Mostly they are "wire to device" connectors, so there isn't a single connector counterpart for that...

jpreston

iTrader: (4)

I'm wiring 2001+ coils into my 1991 wiring harness. On the 2001+ wiring harness, there are two connectors that plug directly into the coils, then a short section of wiring that runs along the top of the valve cover. Is there another 6 or 8 pin connector on the back side of the valve cover for the coils, or do the coil wires go directly into the engine harness without another connector?

The wiring I was given with my 2001 coils was snipped at the back of the valve cover and just has 6 or 8 bare wires right now. I was thinking that I needed to add another connector so that I have an ignition coil subharness, but I'm realizing now that it's probably easiest to just splice the bare wires that I have straight into the 91 harness without another connector.

jpreston

iTrader: (4)

I emailed Ballenger about the connector I'm looking for and James isn't sure what I'm talking about. That makes me think mazda just ran these wires straight into the engine harness without a connector.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

IIRC the coil wires should run to the back of the head, jump in with the rear temp sensor, curve around the intake side, bundle in with the injector harness and then run the front of the head. At the timing cover the harness then splits out again and the injector/temp harness goes into a 2x4 (8 pin) plug and the coils go into a 2x3 (6 pin) plug. There are also a pair of grounds that go to a single ring terminal that goes to a bolt UNDER the throttle body.

That was all from memory so don't take it as gospel. It should be a good place to start researching from so you can call me a liar Hope some of that helps!

jpreston

iTrader: (4)

Thanks. I remember seeing those two connectors on the front of a VVT engine, but I never knew what they were for. So then, since my 91 coil connector is already on the back of the head and my 01 coil harness is already cut to the right length to wire straight in, I think I'm going to omit the 01+ connector and just splice everything together. Then I'll just have to unplug the coils to pull the motor.