When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
alright VTJ, got a good one for you. Need pins for the chassis to door connector on a MSM. Pics of connector and pins below. They look similar to the knock pins but with bigger tabs.
alright VTJ, got a good one for you. Need pins for the chassis to door connector on a MSM. Pics of connector and pins below. They look similar to the knock pins but with bigger tabs.
I can't tell a few details from those images. We don't carry as much body connections compared to powertrain connections. I need to know the blade width of the terminals and have full res images in focus with good lighting. Can send them to sales at bmotorsports.com .
This might be a long shot, has anyone successfully found a replacement for the chassis clips that some of the Miata connectors have? A few of mine are broken and I'd like to replace them.
Quick update, I got some of these from Mouser and they work, they are a little physically too long but it does fit and all.
Anyone got any idea where to get these NA Miata power window harness connectors, specifically the male end that goes to the switch?
Not sure, we might. Got a shot that is high res, in focus, with a few angles, & with good lighting? The blur fest leaves a lot of questions unanswered .
Sorry, I stole that pic off the intarwebs. Is this one better?
Sorry, focus still isn't perfect, but it's hard to make my damn iPhone focus closeup on the spot I want. But at least it's big!
Sorry, I stole that pic off the intarwebs. Is this one better?
Sorry, focus still isn't perfect, but it's hard to make my damn iPhone focus closeup on the spot I want. But at least it's big!
I believe I've found what I was looking for:
Namz MT Sealed Series 3-Position Male Connector NS-6187-3231
This could be the ultimate "connector", and you can get it on eBay and Amazon. It's called 'solder seal heat shrink", which means that it's got a circle of low temp solder in the middle of a clear heat shrink tube. You join the two wires (mesh/twist if possible), heat up the solder and what you end up with is a perfectly soldered connection that's also waterproof. And small. And flexible. We've been using this for a while, but they used to only be available via mil-spec sources. That = expensive. Not any more. Check it out:
This could be the ultimate "connector", and you can get it on eBay and Amazon. It's called 'solder seal heat shrink", which means that it's got a circle of low temp solder in the middle of a clear heat shrink tube. You join the two wires (mesh/twist if possible), heat up the solder and what you end up with is a perfectly soldered connection that's also waterproof. And small. And flexible. We've been using this for a while, but they used to only be available via mil-spec sources. That = expensive. Not any more. Check it out:
FYI this is not what we and other professionals use in top level motorsports harnesses. We avoid solder in such harnesses. We avoid splices anywhere other than a segment of wire that will be straight and whose direction will be controlled. We avoid any magic bullets found through cheaper eBay/Amazon sourcing.
Splicing well is done with either quality parallel butt or quality butt connections covered in quality adhesive lined heatshrink. Alternatively, some decent ones exist that have the heat shrink over the joint. You can go high end, but you don't need to. You should use a proper crimper. In the example case shown, your wires should extend to the injectors with crimps that you perform & validate. They should not be that short with a splice in a bend radius.
In all cheap connectors that are pre-terminated that we have tested, we've found crimps that are appallingly bad. Factory crimps are far better and factory crimp results can be replicated with proper tooling and validation.
Please don't keep doing what you've shown us in that video. It isn't the ultimate, it isn't done well, and it isn't a good joint. You don't know the quality of the crimps unless they came from an excellent source, and you shouldn't be using a splice in that location at all. If you want product links, reference material, etc for this let me know. I didn't want to turn this into a dissertation or hollow the purpose by making it appear like a product placement. Sorry to crap on this parade but I really don't want to see poor product usage & methodology spread as apparent reference material.
FYI this is not what we and other professionals use in top level motorsports harnesses. We avoid solder in such harnesses. We avoid splices anywhere other than a segment of wire that will be straight and whose direction will be controlled. We avoid any magic bullets found through cheaper eBay/Amazon sourcing.
Splicing well is done with either quality parallel butt or quality butt connections covered in quality adhesive lined heatshrink. Alternatively, some decent ones exist that have the heat shrink over the joint. You can go high end, but you don't need to. You should use a proper crimper. In the example case shown, your wires should extend to the injectors with crimps that you perform & validate. They should not be that short with a splice in a bend radius.
In all cheap connectors that are pre-terminated that we have tested, we've found crimps that are appallingly bad. Factory crimps are far better and factory crimp results can be replicated with proper tooling and validation.
Please don't keep doing what you've shown us in that video. It isn't the ultimate, it isn't done well, and it isn't a good joint. You don't know the quality of the crimps unless they came from an excellent source, and you shouldn't be using a splice in that location at all. If you want product links, reference material, etc for this let me know. I didn't want to turn this into a dissertation or hollow the purpose by making it appear like a product placement. Sorry to crap on this parade but I really don't want to see poor product usage & methodology spread as apparent reference material.
I will be sure to tell this to the military-industrial complex, especially when using these splices on towed sonar arrays and unmanned drones. Seriously, we use these all the time and I can't recommend them enough. What we usually do to guarantee a good connection is make a "U" of each wire end, connect them, and then center the solder over them. I usually follow with a second heat shrink tube over the connection, just to be safe. BTW, those little red collars are what makes the connection water-tight. I'm sure not perfectly water tight, so don't use it for underwater applications. Otherwise, solder seal heat shrink is absolutely a great way to go. If you must, spend the extra dough on mil-spec units.
I will be sure to tell this to the military-industrial complex, especially when using these splices on towed sonar arrays and unmanned drones. Seriously, we use these all the time and I can't recommend them enough. What we usually do to guarantee a good connection is make a "U" of each wire end, connect them, and then center the solder over them. I usually follow with a second heat shrink tube over the connection, just to be safe. BTW, those little red collars are what makes the connection water-tight. I'm sure not perfectly water tight, so don't use it for underwater applications. Otherwise, solder seal heat shrink is absolutely a great way to go. If you must, spend the extra dough on mil-spec units.
NOT a cost issue. A cheap duraseal adhesive lined butt connection is fine for this grade of harness. Putting ANY butt connection where you did is incorrect and will be prone to failure.
You used poor technique, in a terrible location, with an inappropriate product (short pigtail necessitating a butt connection where it shouldn't be).
You brushing off professional advice in your own work is one thing but putting it here as reference material is misleading.
NOT a cost issue. A cheap duraseal adhesive lined butt connection is fine for this grade of harness. Putting ANY butt connection where you did is incorrect and will be prone to failure.
You used poor technique, in a terrible location, with an inappropriate product (short pigtail necessitating a butt connection where it shouldn't be).
You brushing off professional advice in your own work is one thing but putting it here as reference material is misleading.
Not to completely beat a dead horse, but the reason I know about these connectors is because they were in the call-out for wiring for a submarine towed sonar array, and for the wiring harness for a military drone. In other words, mission critical components. I've used the aftermarket style in cars for the past two years and have not had a failure. I can't say the same about butt connectors.
Not to completely beat a dead horse, but the reason I know about these connectors is because they were in the call-out for wiring for a submarine towed sonar array, and for the wiring harness for a military drone. In other words, mission critical components. I've used the aftermarket style in cars for the past two years and have not had a failure. I can't say the same about butt connectors.
We are talking across eachother at this point. Disregard for a moment the cheap eBay / Amazon part you are recommending and I am cautioning against (there is a reason they are cheap and the no solder diatribe is beaten to death by the pros, including myself https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-...r-vs-crimping/ ).
Overall, your work is good and I have a lot of respect for your car and the work you've done on it. When I saw your video however, as a professional in this industry, I nearly had a conniption and was saying no, no, no, no, please no. Given your other work, I didn't expect this. So I said something. You are stuck on the product part of this, which we can choose to disagree on. The larger problem is EVERYTHING ELSE.
You've put a butt connection where it shouldn't exist. Ever. You didn't use a heat reflector. The solder may be a cold joint (it's hard to see). The harness flex isn't controlled, there is no lacing or support. You've put it on a short pigtail where you should have the wire terminated on the terminal you crimped for this harness. These look like knock-off pigtails, which, if you open them up are probably garbage crimps. This is not the type of work you want on an injector connection where intermittents can cause engine failure.
Thanks to everyone for putting all this info together in one place. I'm currently on the hunt for the 4 wire connector for an 1990-1993 automatic Throttle Position Sensor. I didn't see it in the spreadsheet or the bmotorsports site. Anyone know what it is/ where to get it?
Thanks to everyone for putting all this info together in one place. I'm currently on the hunt for the 4 wire connector for an 1990-1993 automatic Throttle Position Sensor. I didn't see it in the spreadsheet or the bmotorsports site. Anyone know what it is/ where to get it?
I think we have that in stock but not online yet. Can you post or sent high resolution images, in focus images in good lighting ? Focus on any keyway patterns and iso view please.
02-28-2017, 10:41 AM
0
.
