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Coolant reroute (I think)

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Old 10-22-2008, 09:42 PM
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Default Coolant reroute (I think)

Someone correct me if im wrong but I dont think this will help much at all. My friend did this "reroute" and I just do think its gonna do squat.

*Warning - My coolant reroute involves removal of timing belt. For a long time I wanted to clock the turbo down to reduce the intercooler pipes. The problem with my setup is that the in order to do same I have to modify the radiator coolant lines that go behind the AC compressor and power steering. They sit right below the turbo. I decided to tackle on the intercooler pipes project first and then work on my own coolant reroute. I also wanted to build a kit designed by me using stock mazda parts and as simple as possible. I have seen other set ups and kits out there and they are simply complicated and expensive. My set up was designed to be simple and cost effective. I was able to reduce the intercooler pipes from 6 to 4 and radiator fresh coolant lines from 3 to 1. The reroute kit set up looks stock, and I didn't have to modify anything from the back of the engine. If you are not a mazda fan "unless you look carefully" you will not be able to notice the difference. My idea on the coolant reroute is that fresh coolant should be rerouted as far away as the exhaust as possible. I don't have power steering and AC, if you used the Protege water pump inlet housing (idea from Sebastian), the lower coolant hose will seat at least 2 feet from the exhaust. You can also seek answers with the Mercury Capri or leave the stock Miata part but that's up to you. Many of the parts including in my setup I already had but they are easy to get. The most complicated part of this project if you a 1.6 is to find a place to put the thermostat switch in the back of the engine. Because I have a 1.6 to 1.8 conversion from a protege engine my T-switch was already there. The rest of this project was piece of cake.
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Last edited by levnubhin; 10-07-2009 at 03:06 PM.
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Old 10-22-2008, 09:50 PM
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If I understand what he did, he will be putting in another conversion motor soon.
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:03 PM
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lol
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:51 PM
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I retract my earlier statement.

After re-diagnosing. It will indeed do nothing. He's going to draw hot water into the pump around the radiator...and need a new motor in not much time.

Last edited by MX_Eva; 10-22-2008 at 11:07 PM.
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Old 10-22-2008, 11:22 PM
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I think he's missing the point on the reroute. He's mentioning exhaust heat as though it's making the coolant hot... The object is to get a more even flow of coolant through the engine (block and head). That's why a reroute moves the primary coolant exit to the back of the head.
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Old 10-22-2008, 11:53 PM
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I'm not sure what exactly he changed...
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Old 10-23-2008, 02:24 AM
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As Seen on the Internet!

Shortbus Industries, the creators of DEI present... the Coolant De-Route(TM) !
Not content with low temp deltas across the head? Does your #4 piston stubbornly refuse to let go? Try the new Coolant De-Route!


Seriously though, tell him he needs to re-plumb the heater core return.

At first glance major pwnage is imminent, but if you look closely he is still connecting the lower coolant inlet to the lower rad outlet (which is fine), but his choice of heater *ahem* "return" paths is questionable. This arrangement appears to have him injecting the hottest coolant into the back of the head all the time (not good).

This potentially makes the marginal #4 cooling situation worse. The result could range from disappointing to disastrous.



----edit (quoted for truth) ----------------------------------------

Originally Posted by m2cupcar
I think he's missing the point on the reroute. He's mentioning exhaust heat as though it's making the coolant hot... The object is to get a more even flow of coolant through the engine (block and head). That's why a reroute moves the primary coolant exit to the back of the head.
m2cucar nailed it, the guy totally missed the point and did not achieve the re-route prime directive. The guy just moved his lower rad hose out of the way of his IC pipes and goofed the heater routing in the process.

Last edited by MazDilla; 10-23-2008 at 04:06 AM. Reason: ...not a post whore
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:06 AM
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lets let the distaster happen. He is totally insistant he knows what hes doing.
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
I think he's missing the point on the reroute. He's mentioning exhaust heat as though it's making the coolant hot... The object is to get a more even flow of coolant through the engine (block and head). That's why a reroute moves the primary coolant exit to the back of the head.


Thats exactly what I have been trying to tell him.
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by kotomile
I'm not sure what exactly he changed...
that's because:
The reroute kit set up looks stock...If you are not a mazda fan...you will not be able to notice the difference.

which means you're obviously a mazda hater
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by m2cupcar
which means you're obviously a mazda hater
I... I didn't know.
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Old 10-23-2008, 09:57 AM
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so....he moved the heater core outlet behind the thermostat?
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Old 10-23-2008, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
so....he moved the heater core outlet behind the thermostat?

pretty much.
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Old 10-23-2008, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by levnubhin
pretty much.
using his logic:
How does that even prevent extra "Heat soak" from the exhaust? Looks to me it travels in the same location, but the exit in on the front of the motor instead of the side.

using mine:
probably not the best place to put the heater core return....close, but missed it by an inch or so.
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Old 10-23-2008, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
using his logic:
How does that even prevent extra "Heat soak" from the exhaust? Looks to me it travels in the same location, but the exit in on the front of the motor instead of the side.

using mine:
probably not the best place to put the heater core return....close, but missed it by an inch or so.
I donno man. Dosent make sense to me.
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Old 10-23-2008, 10:55 AM
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Why not tap the radiator on both sides for water cooling? Tap the hot side for the return line and the cool side for the inlet line.
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:01 AM
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id rather just spend the cash and get the one from begi. at least i know it works and i wont be "experimenting" with my coolant.
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by leatherface24
id rather just spend the cash and get the one from begi. at least i know it works and i wont be "experimenting" with my coolant.
When your ready just do what I did. Look up spacerless coolant reroute. Thats what I did and it cost about $30.
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by leatherface24
id rather just spend the cash and get the one from begi. at least i know it works and i wont be "experimenting" with my coolant.
Forget BEGi's coolant re-route, i you're going to do it, do it right with the solution to all your coolant problems
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:21 AM
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lol dumbass^^^
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