Sorry, damn changes in forum settings time out after just a few minutes. I have taken to drafting on a word doc for anything past 150 words. Drafted a detailed reply and lost it..
RRC being used because John says it’s the best match for my build. F20 has smaller ID and shorter runners more optimized for it’s rod ratio, cam timing etc. The RRC will make more power. Rough plan is to hack the RRC in the middle of the runners, flip the plenum. John also adds a special contoured spacer to the TB to improve #1 filling. I’ll post pics once we have it mocked up.
Thanks for the clarity. RRC is what I use on the CRX. It is awesome, and why I want to see an equivalent in RWD configuration.
The trick with that is getting it flipped and still getting it under the hood. Guy on K20A.org did that with an RBC (very similar manifold...runners just slightly smaller) on an S2000 K-swap...and the plenum ended up too high in the air. But John's your man...if anybody can do it, he can.
Also very curious to see what he comes up for the exhaust. I'm thinking it might be possible for a traditional header design (not curled up in the engine bay) exiting straight down the passenger side, if you do 4:2:1 and lay the Y's side by side. Then use NASCAR style oval tubing to the back to give better ground clearance. Might be able to get a 3" equivalent in there that way.
Subframe in. This is being done early so we can drop the mock up engine in for header and exhaust building at Hytech. 11.75 BBK with our directional rotors BTW. Undecided on radiator. Either have Andrew build us a 1.5" double pass or modify a Koyo Hyper-V
Koyo S13 SR20 radiator fits between the stock plastic tray and the hood.
Laid an RBC up against the head for ideas. Plan now is to split it on a vertical partline roughly indicated by the blue sharpie. Flip the outer half over, re-orient the TB flange so is axially centered with the plenum. Plenty of room to clear the hood. We'll cut an RRC though which has runners a bit larger than the RBC so, better suited to my cams. After more rough math, we think it'll make 240whp, not the 260whp we had previously estimated. ITB's and E85 would make a huge difference I'm told but both would make the car much less daily driveable.
Almost forgot.. had good chat with Doug at Hondata this morning. We're going to implement traction control in our build. The package they have developed is pretty trick. It not only differentiates front to rear wheel speed but also side to side. This allows is to be tuned to allow the driver to keep a certain amount of slip angle before the control strategies step in.
Traction control working in their 1200hp 2.1L "K20" streamliner. Fastest 4cyl in the world BTW
I agree with staying with the K20 vs the K24 hybrid. The rod to stroke ratio (1.62:1) of the K20 is pretty dang good for an OEM engine vs K24 1.54:1. The amount of power that can be obtained from the K20 with its huge ports and compression potential can make it a nasty little engine that is also reliable. For circuit/track racing I think it is the way to go, if it were an autocross or street build, I could see going the K24 hybrid route, but it is just not needed for what you are planning on doing with it.
I have always wanted to drive and build a Honda B16 engine because of its near perfect rod to stroke ration of 1.74:1. 10K RPM's reliably just sounds like a blast weather it is fast or not.
By the way, since I just ordered some Gen 2 Xida's from you, does that allow me a test drive around the block when you have the K20 in? I am strongly considering that route for Pixie.
KPro4 and Hondata Traction control. It will utilize the OEM ABS sensors and rings. The TC system simply picks up those inputs with it's own harness and ties into the ECU to implement its control strategy. That is primarily ignition advance but can also be gear, rpm and wheel speed specific boost control.
Designed for maximum readability. The 8800 redline is represented as close to accurate as possible. The font is as close to an OEM Honda font as I can achieve and the redline wedge is as close to 949's proprietary orange as I could get.
Fuel in lbs. Seemed a bit more useful than a boring old E and F.
The Honda design elements can't be missed.
Red lighting. It's a nice contrast against the orange zones.