mike_671

iTrader: (4)

im expecting to to finish my miata this week depending on work hours but do i really need to break in the turbo or can i just go ***** to the wall. Its just basic greddy kit nothing special. also i have a brand new extedy clutch.

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

just crank it with the fuel pump relay or coils unpluged for a few seconds to get the oil through it and just have fun.

mike_671

iTrader: (4)

yay!! thats what i wanted to hear..lol..

thanks

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

but you DO have to go easy on that new clutch

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

nah, not with an exedy.... just jump in and start clutch kicking.

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

I ran my first track day after only putting ~300 miles on my new clutch (well new last year). Trial by fire I say...of course it's rated to like 250 ft-lbs and I was non-turbo at the time so I really doubt running 90 ft-lbs through it was that hard on it.

I would say take it easy at least for a 100 miles or so.

mike_671

iTrader: (4)

alright thanks for the info ....

mike_671

iTrader: (4)

[QUOTE=Doppelgänger;215796]nah, not with an exedy.... just jump in and start clutch kicking.[/Q]


haha not yet i need lsd first the bull **** 1.6 diff is what i have for now(i want it to last until lsd is there to take over)

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Really? Nearly every clutch manufacturer recommends a low-power, low-slip break-in period. I'd be real wary of beating on a clutch without a proper break-in.

elesjuan

iTrader: (11)

Aside from clutch breakin, or solid cam engines... Like posted, prime the motor with good oil pressure by cranking without fuel or spark, then fire her up and give it hell. We built a small block ZZ4 based chevy for an olds we've got. Primed the oil pump with an electric drill, fired it up, set the idle, tuned the carb, timing, drove it 2 miles to make sure the rings set okay then started to run the **** out of it.

ZZ4 shortblock w/forged 10.5:1 pistons, L31 heads milled for .675" lift, LT4 Hot cam, 1.6 roller rockers, MSD 6AL, BlasterII coil, longtubes, 2.5" with some 40 series flows.. We've never had a chance to dyno this car, but from what we based the specs off it should have well over 450rwhp. I think theres about 45,000 miles on that motor and it still pulls strong as ever, and has burnt up a grand total of 5 "built" 700R4 transmissions. Currently in the process of removing the auto all together for a TKOII-600 Five speed then its off to the dyno. Car has 2.73:1 rear ratio and will go well over 100mph in second gear and with a slippin' transmission ran a 16.2@105mph and wet weight of the car is 4136 pounds.

Point is, we didn't follow the "500 mile stop and go" break in crap, never have, never will. Every engine I've built has been broken in like this, I've read several articles by engine builders of this being an acceptable breakin for an engine that'll be run hard its entire life and I've yet to have a failure. When my 2 liter is assembled, I plan on breaking it in just like that. Godspeed little BP.

mike_671

iTrader: (4)

16.2 @105mph

thats funny ****

point taken

1stproject

iTrader: (4)

I say you drive it like you stole it

xveganxcowboyx

iTrader: (2)

On most things I say break it in like you plan to use it with a few addendums.

Engines: Make sure to vary the engine speed plenty the first few hundred miles.

Turbos: Be sure they are primed.

Clutches: Limit the slip for the first 500 or so.

Pitlab77

iTrader: (3)

if it does not break in the first xx miles its not going to break is my opinion on things.

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

hustler

iTrader: (6)

how do I prime the miata motor?

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Remove sparkplugs. Put pedal on floor. Spin motot till you see oilpressure.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Amen, don't be suprised to see it take 15-20 seconds. Took mine that long last week.

ALSO! I would DEFINITELY open the bleeder on the clutch slave and let the pedal fall to the floor to prime it. You don't want the pressure from the pp pushing against the throwout bearing until after you have built oil pressure the first time. Its easy to bleed the clutch again after that.


As far as breaking in a clutch. The only clutches you don't need to break in really are pucked clutches or sintered iron discs. Any sort of organic disc need some sort of break in. That means don't high rpm slip it or anything. You can do whatever you want once its fully engaged!

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

What's funny is I know I've already told Hustler this twice before I posted this. Yea, I'm a firm believer in breaking in a clutch, more so on a Daily Driver car with a stock clutch, where a little shudder is not acceptable. The disk is not gonna have 100% area contact on the surface of the flywheel and PP at first, hence the need to easily break it in. If you Drive it hard and slip it, there is less area touching and a lot of heat will be generated in certain spots and scortch it or glaze it over.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I've only been standing around with my dick in my hand for like a year now on this turbo build.