Stein

iTrader: (46)

My Maxigauges arrived yesterday!

I am not in town to see them.

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

Hey John,
Please let me know if you need any help in setting up/installing them. I am not trying to insult your intelligence, but having done it once, I am sure I would be able to assist you in some way..

Stein

iTrader: (46)

No insult taken. I don't even know if there is an installation/setup manual. If there is, I suspect it's in Turkish. I do know that at least two more were ordered for the US, so if you wanted to google translate the manual and then "fix" the parts the translator missed, that would be most appreciated.

As I have stated in my work logs in the past, I'd do 10 hours of fabrication or mechanical work to avoid doing 1 hour of electrical work. I hate it so.

paNX2K&SE-R

iTrader: (8)

Mine are in route from Turkey as we speak. I'd love to see a write up/manual for the setup as well.

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

No problem, I'll go ahead and translate whatever is necessary

Maxiq4

manuals are english, dont worry

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Good deal! Looking forward to getting home tonight to see this.

Ryan_G

iTrader: (8)

This is an impressive unit. I would really like to get one of these so that I don't clutter my cabin with a bunch of guages. How hard would this be to install yourself if your electrical skills are minimal? Anyone that has received one already and installed it that could let me know?

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

The electrical part is fairly straightforward if you have basic skills.
You need to run the respective wires from your sensors to the controller. These are EGT, Oil pressure, and so on.. As for RPM, the Miata ECU has a tach/RPM out anyway, you can just splice into that.
(I can provide details, if you like)
Running a dedicated ground for the controller is a very good idea... I used the engine block for that.

As for the mechanical part, there is no one single solution for that.. The whole setup depends on your needs, preferences, and imagination.

For the basics, I used a a sandwich plate for the oil pressure and temp sensors. Works like a charm. Coolant temp was a bit more involved; I had a machinist make a T adapter where the "leg" of the T was threaded to accept the coolant temp sensor. I then cut the heater inlet hose and installed the sensor housing on that hose, for best results. PLEASE DO NOT FORGET TO RUN A GROUND TO THAT SENSOR. It is on a rubber hose, and will not work if it is not grounded. Same goes for all types of sensors mounted on non-metal surfaces/components.

The most trying part is the display itself.
Please read my post in the beginning of the thread for details. I still have a clear plexiglass panel I had cut to use as a template, and I can happily post pics/details of the template if you choose to install it as a single din unit above/below/in place of the stereo head unit.

All in all, I would say,
* Use new wires of proper gauge
* do not just twist wires together - solder and shrink tube all connections
* ground on clean, unpainted, rust free surfaces and use a dab of dielectric grease (amazing long term headache remedy)
* leave enough slack on your wiring so you do not break any lines if you ever need to remove anything
* run related wiring together in a split sheathing.

Ryan_G

iTrader: (8)

thanks for all the detailed information it is really concise and helpful.

blindboxx2334

iTrader: (1)

shittt this or the PBM unit. i really dont wanna buy two of the pbms either....

decisions decisions...

Stein

iTrader: (46)

Looked mine over tonight. Instructions look clear and concise. Unfortunately, I have been tasked with fulfilling my agreement with my wife from last fall to re-carpet the boat for the island before diving back into any car projects. I figured I'd get it done before spring easily because the V8 car would be done. I didn't know that I'd have a SAAB torn apart in the shop. So, after I cut out the front subframe mounts and shock pockets plus the rear quarter corners for Chapman and drag what's left of the 94 R out of the shop I have to do the boat.

Zaphod

Hi I think about a complete gauge cluster replacement for quite some time now.

This display would be able to give me most of the values I would need.

I could use the OEM Speedo (or would that be possible in the display with the tachout from the MS3?) and all the little blinking lights of the OEM cluster.

The huge LCD would perfectly fit inside the OEM cluster surround.

@Hakan - I think I have to send you an email tomorrow to discuss this further...

Godless Commie

iTrader: (2)

There are actually two Hakans on this thread. Just wanted to clear that up and make sure you are indeed referring to the other Hakan.

WestfieldMX5

The oem speedo has a small pcb in it (behind the lcd). You can remove that little pcb and install it together with the speedo. You'll have a working speedo and odo and keep the tachout and vss out. You could even remove the lcd from the pcb (you have to remove it to get it out). I'll post a pic if you like.

Zaphod

Thanks Frank! I already have a spare gauge cluster which I dismantled completly...

I made a little concept how I would maybe make the gauge cluster.



I would swap the fuel gauge to the right side, keep the OEM speedo, you can see the rest!

I just sent Hakan (at Maxigauges) a mail.

Here is an excerpt withn what I think should be on the display:

Maxiq4

@Sven
Im copy/paste my mail here too.



You have a great job and very good drawing for display
Now Im trying explain some maxidisplay details

General rule:
we can share and use any voltage-out type sensors
like map sensor
like tps sensor
zeitronix afr device`s 0-5 volt out OK
if any sensor have 0-5 volt out we can share it
ms3 and maxidisplay use same time it well.


But if sensor resistive out dont share
like water temp sensors
iat sensors or oil pressure sensors
and EGT sensor.

I dont know your vdo sensors type?
but it must be resistive out I think

if you want to connect your VDO brand sensors “just maxidisplay”
its possible ofcourse but I need sensor details
because I need calculate microcontroller programm when production.

a note: Im give free water and oil temp sensor with maxidisplay you know


here some link, from miata forum "Matt" use vdo type sensor over maxidisplay
could you look, what is your sensors ?
http://www.vdo-gauges.com/sensors/pr...1-8-27npt.html
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_send.asp?...=300F_150C_VDO
http://www.nsifleet.com/pdf/Temperat...tanceChart.pdf
http://www.vdo-gauges.com/sensors.html?limit=40

Zaphod

I have to make up my mind about the EGT.

I have the EGT going to the MS3 now and I can't share this sensor.

So maybe I should keep the EGT there and read the EGT temps via Tuner Studio on my CAR-PC...

What gauge/value would everyone suggest to get instead of the EGT?

Edit: Wait - I could use the 0-5V output from my EGT circuit in the MS3 and share this signal... correct?

Maxiq4

yes
if you have any 0-5 volt signal out from egt
we can use it but !

maxidisplay has max 8 input
one input egt is standart not change

now you have max 7 input

Zaphod

arghhhhh... dammit.

FYI - my further mail contact with Hakan.

O.K. Hakan,
lets get going.
I just want to check the 8 outputs one by one.

Oil Pressure (oilP)
I think I will use your sensor and can I get the unit in bar please?

Oil Temp (oilT)
also with your sensor and in °C please

Coolant temp (Wts)
also with your sensor and in °C please

Rpm (Rpm)
Where do you get the signal from – can you use the OEM Miata/MX5 signal in the gauge cluster?

Exhaust Temp (Egt)
Well my problem output – it’s standard so we leave it as is – I will decide how I use my k-type sensor (I already have one installed – so I would not need one)

Air-fuel wideband (Afr)
How do you get the signal? Would I share the linear signal coming out of the ZT2?

Boost-Vacuum (Map)
I have seen, that there is an extra sensor for that with the maxigauge.

Volts (Batt)
I suppose that’s taken from the 12V source for the maxigauge (I would like to use the OEM 12V source in the OEM gauge cluster – I think this should work?!)