ebay cast mani
05-12-2008, 05:35 PM
#1
I'm Miserable!
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ebay cast mani
got it in today, here are some pics
quality seems decent. i wish the runners were a little thicker, but we will see how it holds up. i still need to mod it for my external wastegate.
quality seems decent. i wish the runners were a little thicker, but we will see how it holds up. i still need to mod it for my external wastegate.
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05-12-2008, 09:45 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by bryantaylor at 2:35pm
got it in today, here are some pics
(...)
i still need to mod it for my external wastegate.
(...)
i still need to mod it for my external wastegate.
Originally Posted by bryantaylor at 6:16pm
drove the car for about 1/2 hour. so far so good.
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05-12-2008, 10:26 PM
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Nice, I was looking at this manifold as a cheap way to get my turbo started. What did u do for a down pipe? Did you custom make it or is it a prefab piece?
Hopefully the manifold holds up
Hopefully the manifold holds up
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05-12-2008, 10:45 PM
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If the runners actually pour complete at the foundry without air showing thru, the manifold is strong enough to hold up the Earth
The catch is; the log gets 500/600 degrees hotter than the flange at the head. A quick calc suggests the flange will change length about .030 less than the log when fully hot.
This has no choice but to force the manifold into an arc when heated on the engine.
Three possibilities, in my experience; the gasket between head and flange will leak/blow, the studs will get worker over pretty hard, and the manifold will crack.
The cure is as CJ suggested. Cut the slots. If/when it cracks, it will not be due to any poor material or inadequate strength, so be careful not to judge the integrity of the casting. Please fix it soon, else it will need surfacing also.
The catch is; the log gets 500/600 degrees hotter than the flange at the head. A quick calc suggests the flange will change length about .030 less than the log when fully hot.
This has no choice but to force the manifold into an arc when heated on the engine.
Three possibilities, in my experience; the gasket between head and flange will leak/blow, the studs will get worker over pretty hard, and the manifold will crack.
The cure is as CJ suggested. Cut the slots. If/when it cracks, it will not be due to any poor material or inadequate strength, so be careful not to judge the integrity of the casting. Please fix it soon, else it will need surfacing also.
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05-13-2008, 10:13 AM
#18
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Given the slipshod nature of the components, the woeful state of the documentation, the woeful fitment of the intake parts (on a LHD car) and the complete absence of quality control in the packing & shipping dept, I'm surprised that Greddy even bothered to design the thing prior to marketing it, much less test anything... The only pieces worth a damn in the whole Greddy kit are the turbo itself and the little plastic tee for the vacuum line.
It is surprising that the mfg of that manifold chose to copy a log design. The only real reason I can think of for building a log manifold is that they're simple to do if you're using weld-els. It's probably sub-par in terms of flow, but Corky's right, it sure as hell does look sturdy.
Bryan, How was your experience in terms of the fitment of the flange-to-head nuts? It looked like a few of those would be difficult.
It is surprising that the mfg of that manifold chose to copy a log design. The only real reason I can think of for building a log manifold is that they're simple to do if you're using weld-els. It's probably sub-par in terms of flow, but Corky's right, it sure as hell does look sturdy.
Bryan, How was your experience in terms of the fitment of the flange-to-head nuts? It looked like a few of those would be difficult.
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05-13-2008, 10:23 AM
#19
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If the runners actually pour complete at the foundry without air showing thru, the manifold is strong enough to hold up the Earth
The catch is; the log gets 500/600 degrees hotter than the flange at the head. A quick calc suggests the flange will change length about .030 less than the log when fully hot.
This has no choice but to force the manifold into an arc when heated on the engine.
Three possibilities, in my experience; the gasket between head and flange will leak/blow, the studs will get worker over pretty hard, and the manifold will crack.
The cure is as CJ suggested. Cut the slots. If/when it cracks, it will not be due to any poor material or inadequate strength, so be careful not to judge the integrity of the casting. Please fix it soon, else it will need surfacing also.
The catch is; the log gets 500/600 degrees hotter than the flange at the head. A quick calc suggests the flange will change length about .030 less than the log when fully hot.
This has no choice but to force the manifold into an arc when heated on the engine.
Three possibilities, in my experience; the gasket between head and flange will leak/blow, the studs will get worker over pretty hard, and the manifold will crack.
The cure is as CJ suggested. Cut the slots. If/when it cracks, it will not be due to any poor material or inadequate strength, so be careful not to judge the integrity of the casting. Please fix it soon, else it will need surfacing also.
Good stuff.
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