Rafa

iTrader: (22)

I've been researching this question both here and on the m.net board and I haven't been able to get the answer I need so here it goes.

My car has 64,000 miles on the odometer. Ever since I turboed it I've been using Mobil 1 10w 30. It consumes about 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. My mechanic suggested I put in Mobil 1 0w 50.

I'd like to know which grade of oil I should put in this time.

Thanks

hustler

iTrader: (6)

my 94 burns mobile 1 15w50, but doesn't burn a drop of 10w40 or whatever rotella dino.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

hustler; what's rotella dino? is this a brand of oil? Are you talking about the Shell brand?

Is that oil synthetic?

Thanks

supra441979

iTrader: (10)

dino oil is "cheap oil" rotella is a brand of oil.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I'm going to see what redline 10w30 does in my track car after break in on the recommendation of BITOG. You should really go over there and start reading. Its the best place to learn about oil.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Thanks for the clarification Chris.

This brings about another question: I'm beginning to seriously consider building my engine; would this be the time to just use petroleum based oil for some months with my current engine?

Hustler; thanks for the oil link.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

here

Bob Is The Oil Guy

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

lol; I had already googled it!

Thanks man.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

For clarity, dino oil isn't just "cheap oil" but rather refers to petroleum based oil. IE-from decayed bodies of dinosaurs. In other words, not synthetic is dino oil.

I personally run 10-40 synthetic mobile 1. Right now I've got a good 15K on my oil and it's has used ~1/2 a quart. I haven't even added any yet, though I probably should. I previously ran regular mobile 1 and I had a bit of noise on startup and it would use ~1 quart in 15K miles. Their synthetic oil cut my oil consumption down from little to very little and eliminated a little hint of taping on cold starts. And honestly the oil looks like it has 4-5K miles on it. I hate to change it over Christmas break as it's probably fine.

However, if they sold a straight 40 synthetic I'd buy that. Less the spread of the viscosity, the better. Better as in it will work better and be more stable when at operating temps and last longer between oil changes. Plus where you are located, you don't exactly have to deal with freezing winters.

Do you happen to know what is causing the engine to "use" oil? Is it leaking out, or being burned? There is a product called "Engine Restorer" sold in a silver can. It has a lid that opens like a coke can. Stuff is blue inside. The last few parts were irrelevant. But anyways, it's like miracle in a bottle. I've used it in at least 10 different cars, all with exceptional results. It "fixes" everything. Compression, oil consumption, oil leaks, etc. I highly recommend it. I've had excellent results using it. I can tell several cool success stories about it if needed.

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

Pat, thanks for the sound advice!

I used to have some leaks but those were completely fixed and I've never seen a drop of oil either in parking spot at home or at the office so I know it's not leaking. I think it must not be turbo or valve seal related because I changed both those things not too long ago.

I have to acknowledge the fact that I've never had a compression or leakdown test done. My local mechanic just refuses to do it.

If I had to guess, I would say it has to do with the engine block. I went through 2 headgaskets due to loss of coolant and overheating so I guess my engine took a turn for the worse then.

I'll try to find out whether I can find the "engine restorer" product locally. Thanks for that tip.

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

rotella is the best oil you can put in your car, cheap too

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

mobile 1 15W50... burns/leaks about .5 quarts/1000 miles.

Miatamaniac92

They sell Rotella at Costco, IIRC.

Amsoil 10W-40 here, takes a bit to warm up though.

Chris

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

Yep, rotella is sold at Costco and at Walmart.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Rotella synth is really, really, really good but it doesn't have the quality ester base like Motul or Redline according to BITOG. A guy from Redline told me to run the 10w30 (based upon desired pressure and heat) and although he recommended doing a UOA, he said it would probably be good all year, with 20-hours of track time. I'm, going to put it in after break-in, then do a UOA after each track day to see where I stand. If that doesn't work out, I'm going to try dino rotella and change it frequently.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

If you're burning oil, half a bottle of that Lucas snot can't hurt.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Auto-RX FAQ and Application Instructions - Bob Is The Oil Guy

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

The Lucas stuff that you see advertised on the counter at the parts store is not what anyone with a high performance engine needs. What you see when it is climbing those gears is what the oil guys call "roping". The oil companies put additives in your oil to specifically stop it from doing just that. It creates a great deal of extra drag and heat and will hang off of your spinning cranshaft in long ropes. Its a gimmick. All about clever marketing...

Check out some other really good info on oils and what is in them at
All About Motor Oil
18 Pages of good info w/no agenda.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

You're right.
What about Additives?
Ideally, oil will coat the friction surface, stay flat, and not roll. I think this rolling/roping action is what started to **** with my 4th-gear synchro affecting downshifts to 3rd.
I'll take the one on the left:

XxGoKoUxX

iTrader: (2)

i was recommended that lucas snot ****.... never really gave into it (this coming from a guy who has a DSM and swears by the lucas stuff).... as for the engine restorer....if it really works out that well??? i'm IN for it! my legend's starting to burn up oil...about a quart and i half.... i use 10w30 tho....(off topic...sorry hahaha, i can no longer talk about miata's because i don't have one anymore )