MX_Eva

So I was smart and decided that I'd throw a hand at installing my new intake manifold this weekend. **** was going slow...because it's a rat's nest, and **** is gay like you can't get your fuel rail out without taking off your intake manifold or junk. I'm getting a good way through..with it's own little difficulties along the way when I'm on the last bolt. Top side closest to the fire wall and I presumed i was turning the bolt just like all the others when the head pops off! and thus the title. Now I've got an 2 intake manifolds laying next to the car and neither can go in. I've never drilled out a bolt before, so that's no good and I'd rather get a replacement bolt before monday.

sooo to sum it up..i'm fucked, don't know what to do and don't have much time to do it.

marty_uiuc

iTrader: (1)

unless you can get a grip on the bolt shank (with some vice-grips or whatever), i think you're going to have to drill out the bolt and use a helicoil.

ymmv, i don't know your specific situation, i'm drunk, etc...

MX_Eva

Well I will drill the bolt out if it comes to be my only option, i just won't know what I'm doing.

Rage_Kage

you could try putting a groove in it with a dremel and use a flat-head to coax it out

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

same exact thing happened to me. but on two bolts, well one bolt and one stud. I ended up replacing all 9.

pull it off again, i betcha it didn't break flush so you can take a vice grips to it and back it out by hand. if you do have to drill it's easy. get an extractor kit.

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

like braineack said, but if u could flatten a side or two so the vice grips would get better grip it might help

96rdstr

iTrader: (4)

Juts get an easy out(extractor). you drill a pilot hole then you screw in the extractor and thats it, it will come out. Dont hang yourself...Pep-boys has them for sure. So does Sears.

MX_Eva

ok...so where should i go for the new manifold bolt? I guess I can go to the dealer but I'm not sure whether their parts department would be open and don't really want to pay like 13 bucks for a bolt.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

i paid something like 3 bucks a stud for heat treated **** on my hotside the intake bolts should be 50 cents to 1$ apiece at ace or fastenal.

96rdstr

iTrader: (4)

Lowes sells Grade 8 bolts, they should have then in metric sizes.

marty_uiuc

iTrader: (1)

take one of the bolts with you to the hardware store and find one with the same thread and similar length. you might not be able to find the same bolt head diameter though. ie, the bolts on there now are 10mm (i think?) and you may have to buy a 12mm bolt.

just for *****, here is a very dumb engineering poem that sort of applies (i did not write it):


When your working on a project;
And you're brain is full to top;
And the tool steel sits;
On the workbench in the shop;
While the spheroidizing normalizer quantifies the quench;
And the over-tightened cap screw cams out from the wrench;
Remember for the moment your S sub X depends;
For there IS no moment at the very end.

You say that my ramblings;
Are over swayed to theory?
Let's look at an example;
Which is practical, most nearly.

If the tool steel cracks for its temper was not drawn;
Don't blame the furnace that sits out on the lawn.
Just remember that in earnest you burned it way too strong;
And a LITTLE extra furnace will render tempers drawn.
For the temper ampere damper, the thermostatic spawn;
Was set much too loosely in the furnace on the lawn.
When the temper ampere damper clamper is set good and strong;
You may forget about the metal in the furnace on the lawn.
So go back, back to the bench!
With the over-tightened cap screw;
Cammed out from the wrench.
And recall, there is something to be used in such a pinch;
The Chinese extractor set;
Point one-two-five through one-half inch!
Pilot drill and lever;
With left-hand binding pitch;
The cap screw is removed;
Just like that!
A real cinch.

cueball1

iTrader: (13)

+1 Lowes for the bolt and easy out if you can't get vise grips on it. Keep hitting that stuff with wd-40 or similar.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

I've also learned this lesson the hard way. From now on, no matter what part it is, or where it's located on the car, or if it's never been off, or if it's covered in rust or not... it gets PB-Blasted and LiquidWrenched overnight before I try it. No more exceptions.

MX_Eva

umm so, is there something i'm not understanding about the extractor. I've got the pilot hole and the extractor goes in but it just spins and shaves more (yes I have it turning left) i'm gonna hit it with more pb blaster and see if vice grips won't turn it.

MX_Eva

also, should I get a torque wrench to put the bolts back on? are there a "correct" set of torque settings for the bolts?...seems to me that the bolts are too hard to get to for them to have torque settings anyone cares about.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

extractor are threaded the opposite way, so you wannt turn it left and it will start making the bolt back itself out once it catches.

i believe the torque was 14-19 ft/lb. i hand tightened them. i believe it's m10x1.25 bolts. maybe m8 cant remember, i just brought one into ACE hardware and bought all new ones, studs and all.

MX_Eva

hmm ok i guess i'll keep trying until it catches

MX_Eva

............same issue..won't catch just turns and turns (at low speed mind you) inside the nut.