View Poll Results: CHEAPER HYDRAULIC HOOD LIFT KIT???
DEF--COUNT ME IN
24
72.73%
NAH--NO NEED/ALREADY GOT A SOLUTION
9
27.27%
Voters: 33. You may not vote on this poll
Hydraulic Hood lift kit
05-05-2008, 09:04 AM
#42
It looks functional. I'm sure the props from other vendors have brackets with finished edges - will yours?
I must say I'm surprised this is something you'd want to spend your time doing. If it were me, I'd be telling everybody "here's how I did it, go make you're own".
I must say I'm surprised this is something you'd want to spend your time doing. If it were me, I'd be telling everybody "here's how I did it, go make you're own".
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05-05-2008, 10:43 AM
#43
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Well like I said i was just testing the waters to see if I could do something to raise a lil money for somethings I'll be needing...
I'm not a hardcore DIY'r, so figured those who are could have/would have easily done this by now, others might want it just not willing to pay the high price they are selling for...
I dunno, guess we'll just see which way this all goes
I'm not a hardcore DIY'r, so figured those who are could have/would have easily done this by now, others might want it just not willing to pay the high price they are selling for...
I dunno, guess we'll just see which way this all goes
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05-05-2008, 11:51 AM
#44
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I feel I would be remiss in my duties as Miataturbo forum member if I don't add something to the effect of:
"Dood, this is the gayest thread evar!!1!1!!! OMFG, you queerbates are adding hood lift kits?! Can I get U some chrome windshield washer nozzles while we're at it?! BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!111!!1one"
*The aforementioned verbiage was merely a joke. I repeat, merely a joke.
"Dood, this is the gayest thread evar!!1!1!!! OMFG, you queerbates are adding hood lift kits?! Can I get U some chrome windshield washer nozzles while we're at it?! BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!111!!1one"
*The aforementioned verbiage was merely a joke. I repeat, merely a joke.
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05-06-2008, 10:27 PM
#50
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Thats what I've been posting the whole time....I needed a decent amount of people to get the price at $50 or lower...On the poll we had 12 people, plus there was another 2-3 that PM'd me...
Now we're down to 2, and 1 of the pm people...
Soooooooooo tell everyone to speak up!
Now we're down to 2, and 1 of the pm people...
Soooooooooo tell everyone to speak up!
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05-06-2008, 11:18 PM
#51
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**** It
You know what, **** it...this is a diy forum so let me contribute for once...
Here we go:
STRUT=NAPA# BK-819-5518 (or similiar)
BALL JOINTS = NAPA# BK-735-1896
HOME DEPOT = 1"X1" ANGLED ALUMINUM (only need 5-6" if u do it right)
HARDWARE= M6x1.0- 16mm (2),M6x1.0-40mm (2), M6x1.0 nuts/washers(4)
TOOLS=1/4"bit, 5/16"bit, 10mm wrench, 10mm socket, 13mm wrench
a drill, and something to cut the alum with (ie: dremel)
-Cut the brackets down to 2.5" in length (2 of these)
-setup your engine mounting bracket 1st. Put it under the lip of the fender, and just about (but not) touching the firewall...The "angle" should be facing the inside of your engine bay. On 94+ u should have an empty hole there on the fender, almost 2" before the firewall. Use that as one of your mounting locations for this bracket, this will be the bottom hole. The 2nd hole is approx 1"-1 1/8" closer to the firewall. You must drill a 1/4" hole in the fender lip, then mark your bracket for BOTH holes, and drill 1/4" holes for the bracket. The strut will mount to the outside of this bracket, facing the engine. Mounting location is between the 2 holes u just driled, so mark it and drill 5/16" hole. Pop your balljoint into the strut, bolt it on, and bolt on the bracket using the 2 longer 6x1.0 bolts+washers+nuts.
-hood mounting bracket location can now be determined. You hood is propped up using ur stock prop. The bracket again should be mocked up with 1 ledge flush onto the inside of the hood, the other facing towards the inside of your car. With ur hood open, rotate the strut till the unmounted end touches your hood. You should end up about 12" from the front of the hood, or from the hood latch. Move the bracket so ur balljoint mounts as close to the middle of the bracket as possible, while not covering any holes in the hood skeleton. Mark the balljoint/strut mounting hole, and drill 5/16" hole. Bolt on the strut. The mounting location for the hood mount bracket dont matter too much. Just leave urself enough room to be able to tighten all nuts, mark 2 holes on the bracket and drill them 1/4". Mock it all up again, and this time use the 2holes in the bracket to mark ur hood, again drilling two 1/4" holes into the skeleton of the hood. Now cut off the unused portion of the bracket, on the ledge where the strut mounts to not the ledge that sits flush against the hood...you want to leave urself about 1/2" around the mounting location, and cutoff the rest (see pics).
Remove strut from this bracket, slip the 2 short M6x1.0 bolts into the holes in the hood (easier with a magnet)...thread out, or bolthead IN the hood..slide on bracket, tighten nuts.
-relieve stock hood prop and hold hood with ur hand, allign the strut/balljoint to the hood bracket and tighten well. Dont do this with the prop up as the strut setup opens the hood about 3/4" less, meaning ur prop will most likely be stuck, AND it'll be very hard to get the strut mounted
=Fin
PS----if u want u can now remove everything and paint it. DO NOT GET PAINT ON THE STRUT ITSELF as it wont work right...Yes I did it, and had to sand it off by hand, and now it's still not smooth...DONT PAINT THE STRUT
It's actually easier than it sounds, just trying to give all details as best I can but writeups aren't my thing...
Hope u fockerz are happy now
Here we go:
STRUT=NAPA# BK-819-5518 (or similiar)
BALL JOINTS = NAPA# BK-735-1896
HOME DEPOT = 1"X1" ANGLED ALUMINUM (only need 5-6" if u do it right)
HARDWARE= M6x1.0- 16mm (2),M6x1.0-40mm (2), M6x1.0 nuts/washers(4)
TOOLS=1/4"bit, 5/16"bit, 10mm wrench, 10mm socket, 13mm wrench
a drill, and something to cut the alum with (ie: dremel)
-Cut the brackets down to 2.5" in length (2 of these)
-setup your engine mounting bracket 1st. Put it under the lip of the fender, and just about (but not) touching the firewall...The "angle" should be facing the inside of your engine bay. On 94+ u should have an empty hole there on the fender, almost 2" before the firewall. Use that as one of your mounting locations for this bracket, this will be the bottom hole. The 2nd hole is approx 1"-1 1/8" closer to the firewall. You must drill a 1/4" hole in the fender lip, then mark your bracket for BOTH holes, and drill 1/4" holes for the bracket. The strut will mount to the outside of this bracket, facing the engine. Mounting location is between the 2 holes u just driled, so mark it and drill 5/16" hole. Pop your balljoint into the strut, bolt it on, and bolt on the bracket using the 2 longer 6x1.0 bolts+washers+nuts.
-hood mounting bracket location can now be determined. You hood is propped up using ur stock prop. The bracket again should be mocked up with 1 ledge flush onto the inside of the hood, the other facing towards the inside of your car. With ur hood open, rotate the strut till the unmounted end touches your hood. You should end up about 12" from the front of the hood, or from the hood latch. Move the bracket so ur balljoint mounts as close to the middle of the bracket as possible, while not covering any holes in the hood skeleton. Mark the balljoint/strut mounting hole, and drill 5/16" hole. Bolt on the strut. The mounting location for the hood mount bracket dont matter too much. Just leave urself enough room to be able to tighten all nuts, mark 2 holes on the bracket and drill them 1/4". Mock it all up again, and this time use the 2holes in the bracket to mark ur hood, again drilling two 1/4" holes into the skeleton of the hood. Now cut off the unused portion of the bracket, on the ledge where the strut mounts to not the ledge that sits flush against the hood...you want to leave urself about 1/2" around the mounting location, and cutoff the rest (see pics).
Remove strut from this bracket, slip the 2 short M6x1.0 bolts into the holes in the hood (easier with a magnet)...thread out, or bolthead IN the hood..slide on bracket, tighten nuts.
-relieve stock hood prop and hold hood with ur hand, allign the strut/balljoint to the hood bracket and tighten well. Dont do this with the prop up as the strut setup opens the hood about 3/4" less, meaning ur prop will most likely be stuck, AND it'll be very hard to get the strut mounted
=Fin
PS----if u want u can now remove everything and paint it. DO NOT GET PAINT ON THE STRUT ITSELF as it wont work right...Yes I did it, and had to sand it off by hand, and now it's still not smooth...DONT PAINT THE STRUT
It's actually easier than it sounds, just trying to give all details as best I can but writeups aren't my thing...
Hope u fockerz are happy now
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05-07-2008, 12:26 AM
#54
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On a side note, since this is now a diy thing, you could TRY a longer strut (20"-21") and prob a lil stiffer.
You can mount on the fender just the same, but much closer to the headlight rather than near the firewall...this MAY result in a more "automated" hood lift...
Again I have not tried this, just saying its prob a good idea, although more expensive which is why I didnt go that route...
You can mount on the fender just the same, but much closer to the headlight rather than near the firewall...this MAY result in a more "automated" hood lift...
Again I have not tried this, just saying its prob a good idea, although more expensive which is why I didnt go that route...
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05-07-2008, 11:45 AM
#58
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Good to hear u guys like it...
My friend's still bothering me to make him one, so I might have him buy the longer strut and try that on my car...and just give him mine..
My friend's still bothering me to make him one, so I might have him buy the longer strut and try that on my car...and just give him mine..
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05-07-2008, 11:50 PM
#59
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FWIW, if you're looking for something to cut aluminum with... Use a low tooth count wood blade in a jig saw, go slow and put medium pressure on it. Lubricate periodically with Automatic transmission fluid. Cuts through aluminum plate like butter. 
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05-08-2008, 12:49 AM
#60
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I used a dremel with a cutting wheel (2 actually) for the 1st set...
The 2nd time around I used a Miter saw with one of those dull/sharp metal cutting blades..sorry I'm stoned...
Anyway also cut very fast...had to sand down the edges some, but no big deal with the bench grinder...The dremel was like a knife, and the saw was like a butcher knife...
FYI I messed up my shock...1st it seems the paint messed it up(not smooth, getting stuck, somehow got inside the tube, etc), than I somehow fucked it up removing the paint by scratching it with a sheetrock knife(possibly knicked some king of O-ring/seal), and later going at it with a piece of fine grit (fine dust, no lubrication, combination of everything, etc)...
LIKE I SAID--DO NOT PAINT THE SHOCK
I replaced it with a 1" longer strut, and widened the mounting location for the balljoint on the HOOD bracket even so slightly. The hood now opens 1" more than stock!! Pretty much the max you can open it via the hinges...All seems fine, used the same 30lb rated shock, just 1" longer.
I bought a 20" one as well, thinking I might try what I mentioned in the walk thru, but didnt want to drill 2 more holes in the fender. And this worked out very nicely with the extra inch of height...
The 2nd time around I used a Miter saw with one of those dull/sharp metal cutting blades..sorry I'm stoned...
Anyway also cut very fast...had to sand down the edges some, but no big deal with the bench grinder...The dremel was like a knife, and the saw was like a butcher knife...FYI I messed up my shock...1st it seems the paint messed it up(not smooth, getting stuck, somehow got inside the tube, etc), than I somehow fucked it up removing the paint by scratching it with a sheetrock knife(possibly knicked some king of O-ring/seal), and later going at it with a piece of fine grit (fine dust, no lubrication, combination of everything, etc)...
LIKE I SAID--DO NOT PAINT THE SHOCK
I replaced it with a 1" longer strut, and widened the mounting location for the balljoint on the HOOD bracket even so slightly. The hood now opens 1" more than stock!! Pretty much the max you can open it via the hinges...All seems fine, used the same 30lb rated shock, just 1" longer.
I bought a 20" one as well, thinking I might try what I mentioned in the walk thru, but didnt want to drill 2 more holes in the fender. And this worked out very nicely with the extra inch of height...
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