Just Bought First Miata. ..Tell me what Im Workin With
10-15-2010, 08:37 AM
#43
I must say..for someone who picked up a car with potential, I am impressed at how articulated the OP is and his seriousness in asking questions and getting answers. I see this car getting "finished" properly. I dig the satin finish...it's done right which many people don't do. I think it pulls off the 17" wheels quite well too...not many NAs can do that. I'd imagine you'll have to stay with 17"s if you want to keep the brakes.
As for the MBC, I use a Hallman, my GF has a Hallman and most other people I know have Hallman MBCs. They're damn good and accurate with little to no creep/overboost issues. Hell, I'm running a Hydra ECU and I have chosen to NOT use the EBC feature. What does that tell you?
As for the short shifter- Some like it and some don't. I had one on my 96 and my 99 and loved it. If your stocker is junked, I say go for it. Just make sure you get a real short throw and not a "shortened" stock shifter. I'm sure you know the difference though
As for the MBC, I use a Hallman, my GF has a Hallman and most other people I know have Hallman MBCs. They're damn good and accurate with little to no creep/overboost issues. Hell, I'm running a Hydra ECU and I have chosen to NOT use the EBC feature. What does that tell you?
As for the short shifter- Some like it and some don't. I had one on my 96 and my 99 and loved it. If your stocker is junked, I say go for it. Just make sure you get a real short throw and not a "shortened" stock shifter. I'm sure you know the difference though
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10-15-2010, 11:01 AM
#44
Nothing in the shots of the engine bay that can't be fixedin short order, but a few more pictures of other parts of the car so we can check it out would be helpful.
What is the braided line going across the top of the valve cover? I'll assume it's an oil feed line from a sandwich plate for now... pretty bad considering the feed-port purpose built into the block under the heater-core hoses.
I see they took out the AC/ but left the condensor under the passenger dash... an awesome extra 10lbs for no reason.
I see the huge-*** front brakes but stock rear brakes... but no proportioning valve... that'll be super awesome first time you need to do a panic-stop.
And please tell me you've disconnected the wastegate arm by now.
What is the braided line going across the top of the valve cover? I'll assume it's an oil feed line from a sandwich plate for now... pretty bad considering the feed-port purpose built into the block under the heater-core hoses.
I see they took out the AC/ but left the condensor under the passenger dash... an awesome extra 10lbs for no reason.
I see the huge-*** front brakes but stock rear brakes... but no proportioning valve... that'll be super awesome first time you need to do a panic-stop.
And please tell me you've disconnected the wastegate arm by now.
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10-15-2010, 11:20 AM
#45
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Join Date: Aug 2006
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Gonna get it registered in NC and surpass all smog Woes.
A lot of people i know changed residence to florda when they were in tech school, I recently switched mine from NC to MN for both the car and tax reasons...
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10-15-2010, 11:56 AM
#46
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That's not a braided line, its a silver colored vacuum line. Checked that out yesterday. Haven't had daylight hours off work yet to take lots of pics but tomorrow morning I'm gonna get them all. Haven't discontected the waste gate yet, but I'm not driving it wither so no harm no foul.
I really like the rims/front brake combo so ill start looking at a new proportioning valve and a rear upgrade. Any recomendations?.
Gotta order lots of parts this next few weekends. I'm off to the nsx expo in vegas week after next so some stuff will have to wait on cash. Flow unfortunatly
I really like the rims/front brake combo so ill start looking at a new proportioning valve and a rear upgrade. Any recomendations?.
Gotta order lots of parts this next few weekends. I'm off to the nsx expo in vegas week after next so some stuff will have to wait on cash. Flow unfortunatly
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10-15-2010, 12:26 PM
#47
If I were to make a recommendation on the brakes it would be to grab the BMC from a 2001-05 Sport without ABS and MSM, along with the rear rotors and calipers. It'll balance out better. Those rears are 11' rotors and the BMC has a larger piston bore.
Last edited by Doppelgänger; 10-15-2010 at 12:46 PM.
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10-15-2010, 03:59 PM
#48
Do me a favor next time your looking at the engine. There should be a small oil feed fitting near the base of the dipstick.
There should be a bolt in that fitting to plug it. I'm wondering about this, because the 1.6L should have that fitting for oil feed for your turbo. If it isn't there, then that means more than likely that you have a replacement block, many of which did not include the oil feed fitting for some reason. Nothing to worry about, just some insight into your car's history.
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10-15-2010, 04:57 PM
#50
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Wow I feel even more retarded. Lmao. Yea looked at the line again just now. It goes down the other side of the engine but I couldn't see where it goes. Tomorrow ill get it up on jacks and have a peek..
For sure have much much more to learn about these cars. Big change from small block v8s and lifted jeeps. The gay writeup about the car on that web site says its a "built" motor. No clue wtf that means or if their just talking out of their ***. I'm just ready to fix this bitch the right way and drive it.
For sure have much much more to learn about these cars. Big change from small block v8s and lifted jeeps. The gay writeup about the car on that web site says its a "built" motor. No clue wtf that means or if their just talking out of their ***. I'm just ready to fix this bitch the right way and drive it.
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10-15-2010, 07:04 PM
#52
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Darthteddy, I'll make you a deal. I will remove that huge, heavy evaporator box from your car, and give you the crossover tube you need to put in its place so that your heater and windscreen defogger still work.
(Seriously, I am looking for an evap box, and I do have the crossover tube to replace it.)
I see the huge-*** front brakes but stock rear brakes... but no proportioning valve... that'll be super awesome first time you need to do a panic-stop.
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10-15-2010, 08:43 PM
#53
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Yea man its all yours. Ill try gettin it out this weekend. I cant say ive ever owned a car with AC...why start now. lmao.
Played under the hood a little bit just now. Discovered that one of the bolts holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold was finger tight.
That and a few other lines here and there had either loose clamps or were off the nipple a little bit. Adjusted them as best I could for now. Gonna clean it all up tomorrow and get pics of it front to back, inside out, so we can uncover what other mysteries this beast has to hide.
Played under the hood a little bit just now. Discovered that one of the bolts holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold was finger tight.
That and a few other lines here and there had either loose clamps or were off the nipple a little bit. Adjusted them as best I could for now. Gonna clean it all up tomorrow and get pics of it front to back, inside out, so we can uncover what other mysteries this beast has to hide.
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10-19-2010, 09:02 AM
#56
Search "tapping oil pan". You would be able to get rid of that long oil return line if you tapped the driver's side of the oil pan and put a fitting for the turbo oil return line. You don't want the oil return line to ever go "uphill", and it looks like it is in it's current "around the engine" configuration.
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10-19-2010, 09:42 AM
#57
Looks like an overkill intake tube to me, esp seeing that one of the lines is plugged with a bolt. lol
I also agree that the oil return line needs to be addressed. The going around the engine method that goes between the rad and motor, that gradually goes downhill is one thing. Going under the oil pan and UPHILL to the oem return tit is another. I would put that on top priority list.
Looks wise I would remove the style bar and little "wing", sell those on cr, and use that money toward a real rollbar and the car will look so much better.
Good to see that you are ready to fix all the little **** ups here and there. Put the time into it and before you know it, it'll be all around better, more your taste, and you'll have a better idea where everything is and how it works.
I also agree that the oil return line needs to be addressed. The going around the engine method that goes between the rad and motor, that gradually goes downhill is one thing. Going under the oil pan and UPHILL to the oem return tit is another. I would put that on top priority list.
Looks wise I would remove the style bar and little "wing", sell those on cr, and use that money toward a real rollbar and the car will look so much better.
Good to see that you are ready to fix all the little **** ups here and there. Put the time into it and before you know it, it'll be all around better, more your taste, and you'll have a better idea where everything is and how it works.
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10-19-2010, 09:58 AM
#58
someone help me out here, is that a stocker 1.6 crank pulley? I'm not sure if the 1.6's are different than the 1.8s, and my 1.8 pulleys dont look like that...just want to make sure it's not an underdrive...
regarding the pic of your intake piping: HOLY WORM CLAMPS, BATMAN!
regarding the pic of your intake piping: HOLY WORM CLAMPS, BATMAN!
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10-19-2010, 10:57 AM
#60
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First let me say that overall this isn't as bad as you may think from all the posts here. This car has potential. There are some parts here that will save you in the long run. You just need to make sure you are not on the verge of destroying the engine from poor tuning.
It looks like the PO has pulled the fenders this can be a good thing to get some real tire under it later but for now I would keep the tires they will grip well and they make the car look good. Also there are other more critical issues to worry with.
You mentioned the injectors being 330 then you mentioned something about the second hole. Are the 330 injectors piggy to stock?? Meaning are their 8 injectors in the manifold? If so then you could leave them for now and start working on how they handled the extra injectors. There may be a piggyback ECU under the dash somewhere. That may be the wiring mess you referred to in the glove box.
Flush the brake fluid it is almost black. Those calipers will feel a lot better. Brake fluid mixes with water then it boils and you have air. Also the water causes corrosion.
The line running over the valve cover appears to be the turbo oil feed line. Order a longer one and move it away from manifold. Running it between the pipes only makes the oil hotter. Also if it did leak yo would have a fire. Try going back to the fire wall then around to the brake master then up to the turbo on the outside of the manifold.
Is there a FMU? Fuel metering unit? It adds pressure to the fuel when the boost rises. It should be on the passenger side plumbed into the fuel line. It will have a boost reference hose attached.
Check all hardware. This being a show car probably has had parts come on and off and most of the time it is brought on a trailer. So there will be a high probability that many things aren't put together properly.
Fix that rubber seal between the engine compartment and wiper area. It will keep the cabin cooler.
Close the hole in front of the inter cooler. It will let the air pass right by the cooler and basically render the whole set up useless
Leave the wing. It doesn't look too bad and if you remove it there will be holes left in the trunk lid. Wait until you find a proper wing then plan the replacement.
Those ground cables are more of a gimmick than anything. There is one under the master that runs through the fire wall that is melting and could cause a fire. Personally I would remove them.
Good luck, Greg
It looks like the PO has pulled the fenders this can be a good thing to get some real tire under it later but for now I would keep the tires they will grip well and they make the car look good. Also there are other more critical issues to worry with.
You mentioned the injectors being 330 then you mentioned something about the second hole. Are the 330 injectors piggy to stock?? Meaning are their 8 injectors in the manifold? If so then you could leave them for now and start working on how they handled the extra injectors. There may be a piggyback ECU under the dash somewhere. That may be the wiring mess you referred to in the glove box.
Flush the brake fluid it is almost black. Those calipers will feel a lot better. Brake fluid mixes with water then it boils and you have air. Also the water causes corrosion.
The line running over the valve cover appears to be the turbo oil feed line. Order a longer one and move it away from manifold. Running it between the pipes only makes the oil hotter. Also if it did leak yo would have a fire. Try going back to the fire wall then around to the brake master then up to the turbo on the outside of the manifold.
Is there a FMU? Fuel metering unit? It adds pressure to the fuel when the boost rises. It should be on the passenger side plumbed into the fuel line. It will have a boost reference hose attached.
Check all hardware. This being a show car probably has had parts come on and off and most of the time it is brought on a trailer. So there will be a high probability that many things aren't put together properly.
Fix that rubber seal between the engine compartment and wiper area. It will keep the cabin cooler.
Close the hole in front of the inter cooler. It will let the air pass right by the cooler and basically render the whole set up useless
Leave the wing. It doesn't look too bad and if you remove it there will be holes left in the trunk lid. Wait until you find a proper wing then plan the replacement.
Those ground cables are more of a gimmick than anything. There is one under the master that runs through the fire wall that is melting and could cause a fire. Personally I would remove them.
Good luck, Greg
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