I had a 160 in mine, until we installed my MSPNP and noted that temps usually stayed under 159* and didn't make it above ~165* unless I flogged it hard. In this scenario I was in warmup mode for the overwhelming majority of my drive, wasting fuel.
I put a 180* back in and it works fine, Jerry at DIYautotune (Foundsoul here) even commented during my dyno session that the car managed heat really well. Only cooling mod is GS rad from the groupbuy and a $40 cooling plate.
The spec miata angle is a moot point IMO, there's only so much they're allowed to do, plus the cars in SM see much more abuse than a street car.
What kind of weather was there when you installed your MSPNP? Around here we face 90* to 100* temps for mostly all year round.
BTW, excuse my ignorance but; what is a cooling plate?
MS has fixed numbers for the increments for warmup - i.e. 100, 120, 140, 160, but each of those increments has an adjustable cell for % of added fuel - 110% being 10% added fuel. So, I would imagine that w/ a 160* thermostat you could set 160* to 100% (meaning no added fuel) and then voila, no extra fuel added anywhere near 160* or higher.
For people with a good cooling system, it seems to me like it could be beneficial for the car to operate at 160* if their cooling system could keep it down in that area for the majority of the time... but I know very litte.
You could, but why run a motor at a sustained 160*, when the normal operating temps are 180-190. Your rings will love you in winter. If this was the case on my car, I'd fab a radiator blockoff plate to achieve the correct temps....or not bother with a 160* Especially with the huge Godspeed.
If 160 is better, why not a 120 instead? Then you'd have that much more headroom.
If I could build anything I want, it would be a 200 (210?) degree car that gets to 210 is 20 seconds with heaters, and never gets to 211.
If you dump heat at the rate the car is making it, you're in good shape. If you're not, get a radiator/fans/*ducting*(worked wonders for me. I had my fans unplugged for a week and didn't know!), and a high flow thermo.
If all you do is change the thermostat, sure the water temp will eventually reach the point at which the fans run. The fans are what controls the max temp. There's also low temp fan switches that are supposed to be used in conjunction with the low temp thermostat. In the turbo Miatas I build I use a Billion 65*C (150*F) high flow thermo and 78*C (173*F) "on" switch. In conjunction with a large Koyo radiator, coolant temps never hit 180*F.
Heat in the cylinder head is the cause of most detonation. While just running a cooler thermo and switch may not do anything for you, being able to advance the timing or run more boost will. Keeping the cylinder head cool is the key to making big power.
Pretty good, actually. That Racer5 IPA was given to me by a friend whose total beer knowledge consists of "There's Budweiser, and there's that strong stuff Joe likes."
The scene where I'm drinking the beer was actually three beers long, edited down. I think there's one cut where you can see a second bottle on the countertop. As a result of this, the quality of my diction decreased somewhat for the couch scene (it took four takes to get that one right) as well as the VO that goes with the measurements at the beginning.
Originally Posted by y8s
Here's what we learned:
I learned one other thing as well- IBM makes amazingly durable hard drives. Just for kicks I plugged those two units in this morning, and they still work!