zoomin

iTrader: (16)

I know it's a bit of a retarded question, but any suggestions on what I should use for lug nuts when the wheels eventually get here?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

949 lugs. Light, long so you'll never strip one, and open-ended so you can run long studs.

johndoe

iTrader: (5)

Alternatively, I've been use McGard Spline Drive nuts without a hitch. They won't damage the wheel when torqued, and where I live, with snow and salt I won''t get rusted studs because they're not open ended.

Laur3ns

+1 for the 949racing.com lugs

ScottFW

iTrader: (4)

I've been using the McGards and like them. Lugshack had the best price when I was looking.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

FM lugs. I've seen 2 cars with 949 lugs that don't hold torque throughout the day. Maybe it was a bad batch, but they're not readily available either.

Hopefully my wheels show up soon enough for TDR@MSR.

johnwag

iTrader: (3)

FM lugs are pricey, but they are light and they work. Been using mine for 2 years with zero issues.
Ebay made the purchase cheap and simple.

albumleaf

iTrader: (7)

Maybe they were overtorqued and damaged? If I recall you're not supposed to go over 80ft/lb on aluminum lugs.

99mx5

iTrader: (16)

I also use the McGard SplineDrive lug nuts on my 6ULs. So far, no probs.

BenR

iTrader: (2)

Gorilla small diameter, splined. They fit and I can find spare "keys" at pepboys or sears.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

24 track days, I've never had a 949lug loosen up. I like to think I'm harder on my equipment than most HPDE guys. Tighten to 60ft.lbs via impact gun in the air, drop the car on the ground, torque to 80ft.lbs, drive 10 miles (or 1 session), retorque. They take a little torque the second time and then hold.

zoomin

iTrader: (16)

I will also be running a locking lug on each wheel, so want then to somewhat match. And should I go with "chrome" or black lugs?

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Locknuts are worthless, even I can get one off in 10 seconds and I'm not a pro thief, I just worked as a tire tech for a couple years. Might as well forget about locks and just run a lugnut with a non-hexagonal pattern if you're worried about security.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

I love my mcgard two piece spline drives.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

this **** is more hardcore than your life. One fagmo poser car, the other was SM.

ScottFW

iTrader: (4)

+1 The locking nuts are more likely to cause you grief when you're on the side of the road with a flat tire and you forgot the goddam socket for them, than they are to ever prevent a determined thief. For non-determined thieves, splined McGards are enough. Just make sure to keep the socket with you.

I've got chrome ones but you need to either:
A) Make up your own mind.
B) Go ask at m.net.
C) Just get rainbow ones.

johndoe

iTrader: (5)

I'll be the gay. I have like my nuts black. If you wanted to get locks I believe the McGards are weight matched to their spline lugs.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

On new wheels, mine, like all alloy lugs, need to be retorqued once. For street use, that's enpough until the tire are worn out. I have probably over a hundred track days, several races and an enduro using them. Never an issue. I torque to 80 ft-lbs BTW

Anyway, it's standard procedure to retorque wheels after every track session anyway. Many HPDE groups (SV invcluded) recommend that in their track prep instruction for newbs. That's regardless of lug or wheel material. I would never run a whole day with retorquing, ever.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

yeah, there's no telling what they went through prior to the terror. I didn't think of that.

Hi Im Simon

iTrader: (18)

kics 2 piece. R40's.

I have them and they are awesome, not very cheap though.