hustler

iTrader: (6)

1.75 in the rear, and no uneven wear.

SamS

iTrader: (2)

1.5 in the rear and even less uneven wear than hustler

hustler

iTrader: (6)

******* bullshit ************!!!!!

SamS

iTrader: (2)

you need to get a turbo before you can talk to me

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hustler

iTrader: (6)

lol

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Whoa- wait a minute. That bushing does NOT work. I know. I raced a car that had them installed and there is NO way to keep the inner sleeve from rotating. It relies upon the pressure from the camber bolts clamping on the subframe mount points- and we all know that there's already an issue with camber bolts lossening and/or stretching and losing the alignment (under hard driving). The sleeve must remain center drilled and then the bushing is offset drilled, then "mounted" to the control arm using a couple of small set screws. That works.

I think the uneven wear issue gets worse with heaver/wider rims, wider tires and lots of highway driving. I've always had a min. of 1* neg camber and never had odd wear. But it's always city or track driving, light wheels and nothing wider than 205s- mostly less.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

you guys are silly.

TwoScoopsofHooah

iTrader: (2)

so you're saying that those bushings are made to fix camber issues but they suck? Or are they ment for something else?

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Suck. Not a proper engineering solution IMO and in my experience. High G loads make the bushing rotate in the control arm. FM swears they NEVER had anybody ever complain of that problem - but just looking at them you can see how it would happen. You can order bushings offset drilled to whatever spec you want.

This image shows a resolution that works. I've run them on three different race Miatas over the years and NEVER had them fail.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

no, i've been at -2.5 before.

TwoScoopsofHooah

iTrader: (2)

M2,
Where would one order those bushings....I'm interested if I go the shock/spring route instead of coilovers

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

ISC - http://www.iscracing.net/Miata_Page.htm

They know Miata suspensions. btw- check out the shock upper mounts. Gain 1-1/2" travel - allows you to use a stock length shock on a lowered Miata and keep your shock centered in it's travel. That'd be a good fit for your set up, especially if you went with just lowering springs and stock length aftermarket shocks.

TwoScoopsofHooah

iTrader: (2)

So 800+ bucks for the control arms?

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

You have to send them yours, and you get back a set with the bushings installed. I have not bought them from ISC- I had shop make some, have gotten a set from brainstorm and a set from OPM. They all had to be adjusted for bushing width- just so the center sleeve (bearing) sticks out further, so the subframe clamps on it and NOT the delrin, preventing bind. When completely assembly the control will work like it's using bearings- w/o shock attached, it will drop to full extension. Works well. You can buy the bushings from OPM, but I think they're the same price and you have to do the install. I have not installed/used poly bushings, but assume they operate the same and would probably be a better choice for the street since they're softer.

miataspeed1point6

iTrader: (1)

Did you get a print out with your specs on it? The shops are supposed to give you one, and it will let you know it your maxed out.

I know a few alignment techs from several shops, most don't touch the rear suspension. The bolts are usually seized and are more trouble than it's worth to them. Chances are they just didn't want to do it. I'd go back and show the manager your rear bolts aren't touched, then get your money back or a real alignment.

92mazdarati

I got my money back on Friday. Just said that I was dissapointed with the alignment and the professionalism of the Technician I dealt with. I have been going to the shop for years and never had a problem before. The mechanic is new and I'm sure won't last long. I plan to go and get the aligment redone elsewhere tomorrow
thanks a lot for the advice guys

Matt16sfr

good to hear...i usually go to big o also even tho there a bit more costly...u shoulda seen the mechanic they sent out to drive my car in to get 2 new tires.....he was about 6'5 and pretty wide i laughed my **** off watching him try to get in the car haha.....btw u got me to join haha

92mazdarati

nice man...good to see you on here...plenty of knowledge around here. Happy Miataing

MX_Eva

I just got my alignment done and I have KYB AGX's with Racing Beat springs. I HAD the alignment set to -2.5 in the back, then decided to pull it out. Without messing with the Toe the tech was able to pull it out to -1.7. The Tech I was working with was very patient (though many times aggravated) and did his best to get the results I was asking for.

Quick question though. When I initially had them set the alignment I ended up bringing it back because the steering wheel wasn't centered. However, aside from that the car would also make a lot of "clanking" or almost like snapping noises when i would start moving the car, or breaking hard. It sounded like the rear bolts weren't tightened down all the way, but when the machine pulled up the current specs they were the same as when I had last left shop.

I guess my question is, do you guys know what the clanking was? I was thinking it was the sway bars hitting the shock/spring. Though it's also possible it's the front ball joints? I was told I had play in my drivers side ball joint. Though now that the car is re-aligned it doesn't make the noises anymore. Any Ideas? and any places I should look for picking up cheap ball joints?

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

If any of that stuff was loose then the tech would (should) have noticed it when he was dialing in the alignment. That stuff would also change the handling of the car if/when it moved. My guess is it's something else. Just have to get under the car and start looking.