petrol

Hello all,

I lurk constantly, but rarely post.

Anyway, I am about to do the "engine in car" method of replacing the oil pump on my 96. I'm kinda glad it happened, as it made a few issues apparent along the way...at least now I can rectify those in the process. My lower IC pipe was paper thin and reallllly badly corroded inside from the methanol sprayer leaking over time (and shatty mild steel IC pipe from the original 1990's kit).

Regardless...is there any helpful advice or hints anyone cares to divulge before I really start twisting wrenches? So far all I've done is pull the cams and timing belt (the cams are another story) and its in the air with the wheels off.

My thoughts are to take the calipers off of the hub and hang em to the side... disconn the struts, steering input (R-code, no PS) and a few other things to drop the entire subframe down. Yank a little oil pan, and hope for the best.

Good times...good times.

curly

iTrader: (25)

remember you need to disconnect the transmission as well, which I believe is part of why most people pull the engine. I guess I'm partial to pull the engine instead of dropping the subframe since that's what I've done four times already for various reasons, I don't think dropping the subframe is any easier.

petrol

Nooooooooooo!

I have to pull the transmission too? I only glanced quickly, and at the book, but I thought all I had to do (with the trans) was remove the bottom bolts that connected to the oilpan portion of the engine.

Wow... If you're correct, I guess I'd rather just pull the motor too.

Has anyone else done the subframe method of changing the oil pump?

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

No- disconnect the bell housing bolts from the oil pan. I've done this before and IMO it's still way easier than pull the engine. We chained the engine to a shocktower brace and dropped the subframe. It was years ago, but I'll try and remember what had to be disconnected:

*brakes- disconnected the lines and just bled them on reinstall
*bellhousing bolts
*steering rack at first joint
*motor mount brackets at the block and subframe- then they just fell out
*Shock/springs at the body (shock hat)

I've done this twice. First time on a 1.8 for a leaking oil pan with a lift. The second time was on my engine swap when I tried to install the engine with the trans bolted up - it wouldn't fit . That was done on the ground with jackstands and jack.

petrol

Awesome!!!

Thank you for the input. (you made my day) I wasnt looking forward to messing with the transmission again...I just replaced it a month or two before the oil pump died because the previous owner put an early NA trans in at one point, and they dont like generous applications of torque apparently.

Thanks again for the input everyone. I'll update as I go.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Probably the best word of advice is be patient when reinstalling the subframe. Make sure all the bolts are lining up and threading easily - don't force any of them. Try and get the subframe flush with body/mount points if you can't get some of the bolts to line up.

petrol

Just an update (if anyone cares)...

I finally got everything buttoned back up, and the car is running again. (with oil pressure this time)

I gotta say...the subframe method was FAR easier than pulling the motor. In my opinion anyway.

Hope to see some DFW guys around sometime.

-scott

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

ok lemme get this straight you blew a op and didnt check your other bearing surfaces for damage?

petrol

Of course!!!

I had to hurry up and finish so I could go buy my clear tail light lenses!



Of course I checked.

The OP (relief valve anyway) went out sitting in the driveway...and the car was immediately shut off after all of the lights and beeping. There was very little chance of damage anyway.

Bond

iTrader: (6)

Petrol,

If you want to meet some DFW people then you should probably add your location to your profile.

And I bet you were one dirty mother ****** after that job.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

wow pull the motor this time.

petrol

True (added) and yes, very dirty on the disassemble. I cleaned most of it up really good before I reassembled it so it wasnt so bad going back together.

petrol

Next time?

No way... I'd do anything to avoid having to pull that thing out. I've probably pulled 100 motors in my time, but this particular Miata setup is a pain in 9 asses. So I'd definitely do the subframe method again.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

lol ok i can pull and replace mine in prob 3 hrs or less if i have to its gotten pretty easy really with practice