I've read a few threads that say it is imperative that you tighten the suspension components with the car sitting at normal suspension load.

Obviously the problem is that the miata sits very low to the ground and you can' get under the car the wheels are directly on the ground.

I've heard of using a lift (I don't have one), 6x6 post at all four corners (seems a little dangerous), 4 ramps (best I've heard, but I don't have and , and don't want to pay $70 bucks for a set)

My idea: While car is on jackstands (all four corners), use a floor jack to raise one corner to the expected hub to fender ride height. Then tighten the suspension on that corner. This sounds reasonable to me. It also works to compress the shock and spring to install shock at same time. Are there any problems with this method?

 

That is what I have always done. Don't see any reason why it isn't good enough.
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Good man, that is what I want to hear.

Your sig, Where is that hose goign that is coming of of the intake pipe? Does it go to the valve cover?

 

I also have used "jack to ride height". I don't know if you put in factory or aftermarket PU bushings. I was under the impression that it isn't required if installing Energy Suspension bushings as they aren't bonded to the metal parts so they won't preload like a factory bushing. It makes sense to me.

I'd still do the "jack to ride height" as you have to torque the lower shock mount anyway and it is a bonded bushing.

 

The non-bonding issue eliminating the need to preload the suspension makes sense. However, The few extra minutes it will take to preload each corner (especially since I have to do it anyway to install the shock/spring), I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

For free what you mentioned is probably best. I had wood lying around so I slid a few 2x8s under the wheels to give clearance.

 

Find a friend with an allignment lift. :-P Build a pit in my garage, and I'll let you use it.


Really, the poly bushings are SUPER slippery. I did it on a lift, and I could move the wheels freely with my hand. There was NO binding. And it felt ENTIRELY different on the street. I'm not even sure I like it.

So yes, it's totally overkill, just tighten it and go. Don't scrimp on grease.

 

Thanks for the replies.

Maybe you can give an opinion on this. I had one bad upper ball joint boot so I replaced it with a poly boot. Much stiffer than the rubber. Do you think it is ok to have one side rubber and the other poly? I'm concerned about the effects on handling. My gut says it should be fine, but I have no experience with this.

Thanks again

 

From a stiffness point of view it would be fine. Myself, if I have a torn boot I replace the joint. Who knows how much crud got in there. I'm replacing the lowers and tie rod ends on my V8 99 with only 80K on it just becuase the boots were torn.

 

It's pretty hard to imagine a scenario where not symmetric was good. But it's just a gut feeling as well. Odds are good new ball joints wouldn't hurt, the friction of a sandy joint WOULD be annoying.

 

Funny the timing here. I'm changing out the hubs and lower BJs today in the 90, and cleaning / re-packing the uppers. Got the right side finished and came in for a quick break. The upper on that side did, sadly, exhibit a bit of play once the boot was off and it was cleaned up. Didn't somebody once post a link to someplace that was able to rebuild them cheap? A new pair of upper arms represents about 1/4 of the total value of this car.

 

i normally use cinder blocks. gives me enough room to set the car on them, then tighten needed bolts/nuts

 

if you're using cinder blocks, make sure you've got jack stands waiting under the jack seam. Cinder blocks have a tendancy to collapse under a high pressure load.