Miata shifter and car shake
#26
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If its an OEM driveshaft its technically "non serviceable" and "lubricated for life" so unless someone tried to take it apart, it "shouldn't" require service. A driveshaft shop or someone with the correct tools can press out the u joints, but its probably not worth the cost just to have it re-greased.
However, I'm sure someone will come in here shortly and contradict my statement
However, I'm sure someone will come in here shortly and contradict my statement
Last edited by EO2K; 03-27-2017 at 04:43 PM.
#27
If its OEM its technically "non serviceable" and "lubricated for life" so unless someone tried to take it apart, it "shouldn't" require service. A driveshaft shop or someone with the correct tools can press out the u joints, but its probably not worth the cost just to have it re-greased.
However, I'm sure someone will come in here shortly and contradict my statement
However, I'm sure someone will come in here shortly and contradict my statement
#29
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^^ Yep. I believe the last time we did a pilot I beat the old one out with a hammer and a socket, and installed the new one with a bolt, some washers, a nut and a couple pieces of flat stock with holes drilled in them. Hammer and socket bearing install makes my skin crawl. Vice should be OK though, if you have one that's big enough. I'm always nervous about installing relatively delicate things like bearings with anything that does not apply direct, even force. I really need to get access to a press.
There isn't much to service on a 5 speed without stripping it down, other than the throwout bearing, fork, pivot, rubber fork boot, hydraulic slave cylinder, main seals, shifter bushings and shifter seal. These are not necessarily high wear items so just confirming they aren't shot and maybe a little lube is about all the attention they need. You'll have to replace the fluid, but that shouldn't be a big deal. A quick search here on MT should give you some good ideas as to what fluids work well for various applications.
How far did you get on confirming that all the PPF bolts are present and accounted for? If you are not 100% on that stuff, please let us know and we'll do what we can to help. I'd be super paranoid about the mechanical condition of the car after seeing some of those pics you posted
How far did you get on confirming that all the PPF bolts are present and accounted for? If you are not 100% on that stuff, please let us know and we'll do what we can to help. I'd be super paranoid about the mechanical condition of the car after seeing some of those pics you posted
#30
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I assume (recall) that you are putting a clutch in at this time. If so, you should have the flywheel faced. The shop will / can press the pilot bearing for you no extra charge. What clutch are you going with?
#32
^^ Yep. I believe the last time we did a pilot I beat the old one out with a hammer and a socket, and installed the new one with a bolt, some washers, a nut and a couple pieces of flat stock with holes drilled in them. Hammer and socket bearing install makes my skin crawl. Vice should be OK though, if you have one that's big enough. I'm always nervous about installing relatively delicate things like bearings with anything that does not apply direct, even force. I really need to get access to a press.
There isn't much to service on a 5 speed without stripping it down, other than the throwout bearing, fork, pivot, rubber fork boot, hydraulic slave cylinder, main seals, shifter bushings and shifter seal. These are not necessarily high wear items so just confirming they aren't shot and maybe a little lube is about all the attention they need. You'll have to replace the fluid, but that shouldn't be a big deal. A quick search here on MT should give you some good ideas as to what fluids work well for various applications.
How far did you get on confirming that all the PPF bolts are present and accounted for? If you are not 100% on that stuff, please let us know and we'll do what we can to help. I'd be super paranoid about the mechanical condition of the car after seeing some of those pics you posted
There isn't much to service on a 5 speed without stripping it down, other than the throwout bearing, fork, pivot, rubber fork boot, hydraulic slave cylinder, main seals, shifter bushings and shifter seal. These are not necessarily high wear items so just confirming they aren't shot and maybe a little lube is about all the attention they need. You'll have to replace the fluid, but that shouldn't be a big deal. A quick search here on MT should give you some good ideas as to what fluids work well for various applications.
How far did you get on confirming that all the PPF bolts are present and accounted for? If you are not 100% on that stuff, please let us know and we'll do what we can to help. I'd be super paranoid about the mechanical condition of the car after seeing some of those pics you posted
I was was thinking of the Exedy OEM replacement kit. I'm going to stay NA and work on suspension and all the supporting mods as I have the option to start over now, I've seen good reviews on the kit and it's cheap.
#33
No idea why my previous post isn't showing for me. But from what I can tell there are 5 bolts total in the PPF, and I have 4, 2 to the trans and 2 to the diff. With one missing by the tailshaft of the trans. Also I am thinking about the oem exedy on amazon. Which is cheap with great reviews. Also, is there any compatibility issues with the 01 transmission on my 94?
#34
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No idea why my previous post isn't showing for me. But from what I can tell there are 5 bolts total in the PPF, and I have 4, 2 to the trans and 2 to the diff. With one missing by the tailshaft of the trans. Also I am thinking about the oem exedy on amazon. Which is cheap with great reviews. Also, is there any compatibility issues with the 01 transmission on my 94?
Stock will likely start slipping if you do.
#36
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FWIW I really like my FM1 clutch. Its not insanely expensive, has a fabulous reputation, is easy to modulate, has no bad habits (other than being slightly heavier pedal feel than stock) and mine has been holding 300hp/300ft-lbs for I think a couple years now. Granted im not daily driving the thing, but it's actually much nicer and more capable than the clutch in my Subaru DD.
If you are doing a clutch, no reason not to do something like the the FM1 now. Tbe Exedy is a good clutch, I had one I I the past, but you will just end up spending the money again later when you need to upgrade for boost.
https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-level-1-clutch.html
If you are doing a clutch, no reason not to do something like the the FM1 now. Tbe Exedy is a good clutch, I had one I I the past, but you will just end up spending the money again later when you need to upgrade for boost.
https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-level-1-clutch.html
#38
FWIW I really like my FM1 clutch. Its not insanely expensive, has a fabulous reputation, is easy to modulate, has no bad habits (other than being slightly heavier pedal feel than stock) and mine has been holding 300hp/300ft-lbs for I think a couple years now. Granted im not daily driving the thing, but it's actually much nicer and more capable than the clutch in my Subaru DD.
If you are doing a clutch, no reason not to do something like the the FM1 now. Tbe Exedy is a good clutch, I had one I I the past, but you will just end up spending the money again later when you need to upgrade for boost.
https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-level-1-clutch.html
If you are doing a clutch, no reason not to do something like the the FM1 now. Tbe Exedy is a good clutch, I had one I I the past, but you will just end up spending the money again later when you need to upgrade for boost.
https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-level-1-clutch.html
#39
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I have been using the VPM clutches for years now on stock cars with zero issues. They are my 100% goto if not going with a stronger one. I am pretty sure they are made by Exedy, but it is nice buying them from a Mazda dealership so you are not worried about getting a shitty clutch, and they are cheap.
#40
Alright. Finally got time to work on my baby. Got everything off but the trans, the end of the tailshaft completely exploded and the back of the trans ended up on my driveshaft, which I have as a token. the U-joint at the transmission was almost completely seized, prob why this happened. So a bad U-joint costed me a transmission. Learn from my mistakes😂