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Miata shifter and car shake

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Old 03-27-2017, 10:14 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mmmjesse
wow, thats a new one on me. thats ******* awful. I dont think the PPF can be out of alignment enough to cause that. that is an odd one for sure.
Haha, think my U-joints were so bad it did it. Just picked up a new shaft, and a 01 5spd yesterday
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Old 03-27-2017, 10:51 AM
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I was just about to post: "align the ppf properly"

....looks like you're about to learn the hard way tho.

whoever hacked those engine mounts needs to be taken out back and beaten
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Old 03-27-2017, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
I was just about to post: "align the ppf properly"

....looks like you're about to learn the hard way tho.

whoever hacked those engine mounts needs to be taken out back and beaten
I'll make sure to. I also found out I am missing a bolt where the trans mounts up to the PPF. So you're all right.
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:00 PM
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Err, I would go through things with a fine tooth comb and look at where else you can find evidence of the previous owners handiwork!
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
Err, I would go through things with a fine tooth comb and look at where else you can find evidence of the previous owners handiwork!
Yeah, at this point.

Is there any maintainence I should do on the trans or driveshaft etc before I put it in?
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Old 03-27-2017, 02:45 PM
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If its an OEM driveshaft its technically "non serviceable" and "lubricated for life" so unless someone tried to take it apart, it "shouldn't" require service. A driveshaft shop or someone with the correct tools can press out the u joints, but its probably not worth the cost just to have it re-greased.

However, I'm sure someone will come in here shortly and contradict my statement

Last edited by EO2K; 03-27-2017 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 03-27-2017, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by EO2K
If its OEM its technically "non serviceable" and "lubricated for life" so unless someone tried to take it apart, it "shouldn't" require service. A driveshaft shop or someone with the correct tools can press out the u joints, but its probably not worth the cost just to have it re-greased.

However, I'm sure someone will come in here shortly and contradict my statement
Yeah. The guy I got it from had the trans serviced. But I was also thinking throwout and pilot bearings. Do you have to have specific tools for those?
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Old 03-27-2017, 03:27 PM
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Throwout is super easy. I don't think you need any tools at all.
Pilot bearing you can press in with a vice and big sockets. Or with a real press if you wanna get fancy.
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Old 03-27-2017, 04:41 PM
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^^ Yep. I believe the last time we did a pilot I beat the old one out with a hammer and a socket, and installed the new one with a bolt, some washers, a nut and a couple pieces of flat stock with holes drilled in them. Hammer and socket bearing install makes my skin crawl. Vice should be OK though, if you have one that's big enough. I'm always nervous about installing relatively delicate things like bearings with anything that does not apply direct, even force. I really need to get access to a press.

Originally Posted by ANONYMOUS_HAM
Yeah. The guy I got it from had the trans serviced. But I was also thinking throwout and pilot bearings. Do you have to have specific tools for those?
There isn't much to service on a 5 speed without stripping it down, other than the throwout bearing, fork, pivot, rubber fork boot, hydraulic slave cylinder, main seals, shifter bushings and shifter seal. These are not necessarily high wear items so just confirming they aren't shot and maybe a little lube is about all the attention they need. You'll have to replace the fluid, but that shouldn't be a big deal. A quick search here on MT should give you some good ideas as to what fluids work well for various applications.

How far did you get on confirming that all the PPF bolts are present and accounted for? If you are not 100% on that stuff, please let us know and we'll do what we can to help. I'd be super paranoid about the mechanical condition of the car after seeing some of those pics you posted
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:44 PM
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I assume (recall) that you are putting a clutch in at this time. If so, you should have the flywheel faced. The shop will / can press the pilot bearing for you no extra charge. What clutch are you going with?
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Old 03-27-2017, 09:02 PM
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I "faced" my flywheel with coarse sandpaper and a mouse style sander. Followed FM break in procedure, and it holds great.
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Old 03-27-2017, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by EO2K
^^ Yep. I believe the last time we did a pilot I beat the old one out with a hammer and a socket, and installed the new one with a bolt, some washers, a nut and a couple pieces of flat stock with holes drilled in them. Hammer and socket bearing install makes my skin crawl. Vice should be OK though, if you have one that's big enough. I'm always nervous about installing relatively delicate things like bearings with anything that does not apply direct, even force. I really need to get access to a press.



There isn't much to service on a 5 speed without stripping it down, other than the throwout bearing, fork, pivot, rubber fork boot, hydraulic slave cylinder, main seals, shifter bushings and shifter seal. These are not necessarily high wear items so just confirming they aren't shot and maybe a little lube is about all the attention they need. You'll have to replace the fluid, but that shouldn't be a big deal. A quick search here on MT should give you some good ideas as to what fluids work well for various applications.

How far did you get on confirming that all the PPF bolts are present and accounted for? If you are not 100% on that stuff, please let us know and we'll do what we can to help. I'd be super paranoid about the mechanical condition of the car after seeing some of those pics you posted
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
I assume (recall) that you are putting a clutch in at this time. If so, you should have the flywheel faced. The shop will / can press the pilot bearing for you no extra charge. What clutch are you going with?
From what I could tell by a quick look, the mount in the picture of my tailshaft has a missing bolt, then it has 2 in the trans and 2 in the diff. Idk if there are anymore bolts. We are tearing it apart and looking at everything Starting Thursday or Friday.

I was was thinking of the Exedy OEM replacement kit. I'm going to stay NA and work on suspension and all the supporting mods as I have the option to start over now, I've seen good reviews on the kit and it's cheap.
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Old 03-27-2017, 11:00 PM
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No idea why my previous post isn't showing for me. But from what I can tell there are 5 bolts total in the PPF, and I have 4, 2 to the trans and 2 to the diff. With one missing by the tailshaft of the trans. Also I am thinking about the oem exedy on amazon. Which is cheap with great reviews. Also, is there any compatibility issues with the 01 transmission on my 94?
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Old 03-28-2017, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ANONYMOUS_HAM
No idea why my previous post isn't showing for me. But from what I can tell there are 5 bolts total in the PPF, and I have 4, 2 to the trans and 2 to the diff. With one missing by the tailshaft of the trans. Also I am thinking about the oem exedy on amazon. Which is cheap with great reviews. Also, is there any compatibility issues with the 01 transmission on my 94?
Are you still planning on installing the turbo etc when you're done with all this?

Stock will likely start slipping if you do.
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Old 03-28-2017, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
Are you still planning on installing the turbo etc when you're done with all this?

Stock will likely start slipping if you do.
Maybe eventually. Is there a relatively cheap stage 2 clutch?
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:01 AM
  #36  
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FWIW I really like my FM1 clutch. Its not insanely expensive, has a fabulous reputation, is easy to modulate, has no bad habits (other than being slightly heavier pedal feel than stock) and mine has been holding 300hp/300ft-lbs for I think a couple years now. Granted im not daily driving the thing, but it's actually much nicer and more capable than the clutch in my Subaru DD.

If you are doing a clutch, no reason not to do something like the the FM1 now. Tbe Exedy is a good clutch, I had one I I the past, but you will just end up spending the money again later when you need to upgrade for boost.

https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-level-1-clutch.html
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:08 AM
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Clutch wise you either use the VPM Clutch from Priorty Mazda if staying non-boosted, or just goto FM1/949/ACT clutch if planning on boosting.
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:39 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by EO2K
FWIW I really like my FM1 clutch. Its not insanely expensive, has a fabulous reputation, is easy to modulate, has no bad habits (other than being slightly heavier pedal feel than stock) and mine has been holding 300hp/300ft-lbs for I think a couple years now. Granted im not daily driving the thing, but it's actually much nicer and more capable than the clutch in my Subaru DD.

If you are doing a clutch, no reason not to do something like the the FM1 now. Tbe Exedy is a good clutch, I had one I I the past, but you will just end up spending the money again later when you need to upgrade for boost.

https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-level-1-clutch.html
Originally Posted by shuiend
Clutch wise you either use the VPM Clutch from Priorty Mazda if staying non-boosted, or just goto FM1/949/ACT clutch if planning on boosting.
Thanks for the amazing information. I might just go with a VPM, I won't be boosting for at least a year to a year an a half. And I'll have a better daily then so that it can be my fun car, and I can afford to have it down longer to do the clutch and everything.
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Old 03-28-2017, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ANONYMOUS_HAM
Thanks for the amazing information. I might just go with a VPM, I won't be boosting for at least a year to a year an a half. And I'll have a better daily then so that it can be my fun car, and I can afford to have it down longer to do the clutch and everything.
I have been using the VPM clutches for years now on stock cars with zero issues. They are my 100% goto if not going with a stronger one. I am pretty sure they are made by Exedy, but it is nice buying them from a Mazda dealership so you are not worried about getting a shitty clutch, and they are cheap.
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Old 04-06-2017, 01:02 PM
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Alright. Finally got time to work on my baby. Got everything off but the trans, the end of the tailshaft completely exploded and the back of the trans ended up on my driveshaft, which I have as a token. the U-joint at the transmission was almost completely seized, prob why this happened. So a bad U-joint costed me a transmission. Learn from my mistakes😂
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