Saml01

iTrader: (9)

I have my controller set up to show 0 = 10afr and 5 = 20afr for the megasquirt, and to the same output I connected my the gauge. But it still shows 22.99 when full lean when coasting and 7.45 when its just sitting doing nothing. I was looking at my laptop and trying to compare it to the gauge, but its shifting around to fast on the computer for me to tell if its the same, but it seems to be off.

Is this gauge designed to only show the voltage range that comes from the factory, which I think is like 0 = 7AFR and 5 = 23AFR? Because that would be really gay if it is.

giff

iTrader: (1)

Yes it is designed for the LC-1's default settings, but I don't see why thats remotely gay as it gives you a nice range out of the box?

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

No No. Im all for having the voltage range out of the box. I am more concerned if it uses some sort of internal program for determining AF based on the voltage output by the LC1. So if I programmed the controller to show 0v = 10afr and it sees 0v as 7.45 then it will give me incorrect readings.


Edit:
I just dont know if should reprogram my LC1 to the factory settings, and then setup MS to work with those.

How is everyone else going about doing this, without using the second output to be dedicated for the DB gauge.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Sam

1. you're an idiot
2. the lc1 has TWO analog outputs
3. you're an idiot
4. RTFM
5. you're an idiot

(emphasis mine)

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

I am not an idiot and I know that manual like the back of my hand now.

And my answer is, basically thats great, I cant emulate a narrow band and use a DB gauge at the same time unless I A. make the megasquirt and megatune work with there voltage ranges or B. Use the second output to run the gauge.

And now, the LC1 is taking a **** on me again. The car is standing idling and the afr reading would slowly decrease and decrease until the gauge in megatune goes ape **** and then just stops at 19.99.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Were you a business major?
Can't help you with the LC issues (make sure it's got GOOD + and GND connections), but I've already told you to not emulate NB. If you must, then get a XD gauge instead of the DB. My XD is ****.

I stand behind 1,3&5 until you prove otherwise.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

You know Ben, I hate to admit it. But I cant prove you otherwise, if you knew what I just discovered I would probably be branded the forums dunce.

This is what I deserve right about now

Ben

iTrader: (33)

LOL, it's OK to share man. And if you found a mistake and post its correction, then perhaps a NEWB might learn from the experience.

If you search, you'll find the story of when I had one miata on the lift, and lowered it onto my other miata that was below it. We all have our moments.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Alrighty then. The story goes like this.

I get my LC1 plug it into a 9v adapter, setup the correct megatune required AFR settings which as everyone knows are 0v=10afr & 5v = 20afr. So I go ahead and install it in the car. That same day and subsequent days later I start to experience a recurring problem where it would need a new free air calibration after every shutdown. I thought, maybe its a firmware issue, let me go upgrade the firmware. I take it back in the house, upgrade the firmware. At that point, pay attention after the firmware upgrade I looked at the output scale settings and saw they did not change in the program. I took it out to the car, plugged it in and tried tuning. The problem persisted, constant free air calibrations. I came on the forum if you guys remember and asked wtf is going and even emailed innovate about it. The solution was to ground everything to one point and terminate the in plug while its in the car. Miraculously the problems went away and I started tuning.

I spent 2 weeks tuning the car with the laptop because I didnt have time to put the gauge in.

Fast forward to yesterday.

I put the gauge into the car and I instantly get a discrepancy in the reading. I think, OH **** this gauge is only designed to work with the factory voltage range but I hope its not that stupid.

Fast forward to today.

I come on the forum to make this thread, what the **** this gauge only supports the factory voltage how gay is that blah blah blah I cant emulate at the same time because I need to have one output for gauge and one output for the MS.

Fast forward to later in today.

I start to get pissed off at the fact that my readings are fucked up and I start to wonder, I WONDER WHICH OF THESE IS MORE CORRECT the gauge or the MS.
I start to also get pissed because id need to pull the LC1 out of the car to bring it into the house and then redo the god damn free air calibration and **** up my hands again reaching for the sensor.

IT DAWNED UPON ME ONLY NOW!!!!! This whole time with the megasquirt, and now the LC1, my laptops docking station has a serial port. I didnt even need the converter plug technically, and the first time I programmed it I didnt need to bring it into the house.

Beside the point.

I just ran outside plugged the computer into the LC1 and open LM programmer.

WHAT DO I SEE?

The factory DEFAULT settings in ever single window. The second output was setup to output 7.35 - 22.99. This whole time, for the past 2.5 weeks I have been tuning with the wrong god damn output on the lc1

Yesterdays event with an 11:1 idle on the gauge which was 13:1 on the computer was dead on accurate, except the gauge was right and I am a ******* idiot.

GAME SET MATCH, LC1

Guilty on counts 1,3,5 of being an idiot.