I searched, but, I'm still clueless. Custom alum rad with twin 12" fans, wired in parallel to the left fan controller The only time heat is an issue is when idling with A/C on in hot weather. 16lbs cap, no reroute. Please, someone explain to me like I'm a 5-year old. Will the re-route help? Are my fans (fleabay) powerful enough? Running 50/50 mixture. Not an issue when driving, but, at rest, temp gauge climbs rather rapidly, and I've had coolant "releive" itself out of the lower rad hose. I'm guessing the thermostat is stock, as is the waterpump. But, I'm still clueless as to what I should start with. Help the idiot, please...

__________________
Brakes, Oil filters, Air Filters, Suspension, FCM SA & mounts & bumpstops, 400/275, FM 1" FSB, no rear bar, Custom CAI, LAV Speed-O-Sound

cheapest and easiest first step is water wetter. The re-route may help a little, but it's more to keep the motor more evenly cooled. Do your fans have shrouds? If not, they should. I'm assuming you have a turbo and IC. What IC are you using?

Too much antifreeze. Run closer to 20/80 and add some Water Wetter.

Before you go throwing your money into the wind and getting a re-route you should replace your thermostat and probably your thermoswitch if the fans aren't kicking on correctly.

Easy solution to eliminate the thermoswitch is to unplug the AC clutch and turn the AC on at fan setting 1. Fans will run constantly like that and you can see if it's being caused by the fans not turning on, but the first step is dilute the antifreeze.

+1 more to diluting the coolant, add some water wetter and replace the t-stat.

That is one of those so-simple-it-is-brilliant tricks, nice idea.

Been doing it for years. Some people get fancy and wire the A/C clutch wire to a dash mounted switch. I'm lazy and I just pop the hood and unplug the connector. On the early cars you can do it by removing the connector from the low pressure switch. The later cars seem to like the clutch wire instead.

i'm interested to see what works cause i have a similar problem. What gauge are you basing the temps on (stock or aftermarket). My stock gauge once got up past the Hot and yet the car was still running ok and not blowing out coolant and siezing up, and it only did it while sitting with the a/c on.

If your stock gauge moved past it's normal position your engine was pretty hot. The stock gauge is over dampened and hardly moves until the engine is burning up.

I think that my guage may have something wrong with it because if you turn on the lights or the a/c the needle will automatically move more towards the hot side and move right back towards the cool side as soon as you turn them off! I'm goin to buy another gauge for more accurate readings.

Fans wired together + no antifreeze in the summer + all ducting + hole in bumper = no over heating for me.

Umm, ok. How do I do this? Where is the A/C clutch? How would I turn on the A/C if the clutch is unplugged? Manual?
Details, pretty please....

No turbo or IC (engine burns oil, thus the kit is still on the balcony).
No shrouds.
Will the fleabay fans be enough, or should I throw some serious cash in that direction?

Stock gauge. (That's why I can only tell "hot" or "not").
Usually, 11 o'clock.

I don't think the fans aren't kicking in when they should, as I can very well hear them come on, but, in the cited conditions, I wonder if they're enough (as the car overheats sitting doing nothing).
Shroud?

Again, when idling in steamy (75*+) with A/C on (something my wonderful ******* of a track instructor [he's an amazing instructor, he just likes to break my car :(] insist on doing when we're in pit lane. I mean, IT'S A FRIGGIN' CONVERTIBLE, for crying out loud!!!).

Hot weather + A/C on full blast (well, 3 or 4) = needle well past 1 o'clock + (maybe) greenish water under the car.


So, the solutions I'm hearing (and than you all who responded, much, much appreciated) are
1) water wetter
2) disconnect A/C clutch (switch) (how, please) ?
3) replace the thermostat (with what range one?)

__________________
Brakes, Oil filters, Air Filters, Suspension, FCM SA & mounts & bumpstops, 400/275, FM 1" FSB, no rear bar, Custom CAI, LAV Speed-O-Sound

I will tell you that our Reroute will have you fixed up in no time. We have seen people battle with heating issues and then they install the reroute and they no longer have them.

Visit Http://M-Tuned.com to fix your problem quick... Kit also comes with a new T-Stat.

To start with you could put what year car/engine in you sig.

But if you have a NA year look to the passenger side of the throttle body and you will see AC piping and a switch with a connector. If you unplug the connector from this switch the AC will not run the compressor. As for turning the AC on, push the button on the dash and turn the fan to #1.

Done

Thanks, Larry.
Now, sorry for the stupid question.
If the compressor is unplugged, would pressing the A/C button and turning the fan on STILL engage the A/C? ('Cause that's how I usually turn the A/C on...)

But, with the compressor unplugged...A/C will work, just not as cold, I guess?

With the refrigerant pressure switch disconnected, the fans will turn on however the compressor clutch will not engage. Thus, you will have no cold air at all.

Any chance to have the cake and puke it too, er, eat it?

That's the point. He said he was concerned the fans weren't coming on or coming on soon enough. By unplugging the connector the AC doesn't work but the fans run all the time and it's an easy way for him to test if that helps his cooling issue.

Thanks, Larry.

This Saturday will be the perfect time to test that. Auto-x with temps in mid 80*. Perfect opportunity to sit in pit lane and idle.

Now, if I don't overheat with A/C disconnected, what steps to take then?