Pulled my head today. (Think I have a problem) Pics inside
#81
ive done countless jobs with my machinist and have not had a problem yet...... i tourqe all the mains before it goes to there... i think you still think that your talking to someone that does not know what hes doin.
anyways my preference is rebuilt....maybe because i have the facility and all the tools to do so.. but if don't have the time and knowledge skill to build a engine than by all means source out a used engine.... no problems
anyways my preference is rebuilt....maybe because i have the facility and all the tools to do so.. but if don't have the time and knowledge skill to build a engine than by all means source out a used engine.... no problems
#82
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Yeah, but as Ben said. To run that lean you need to compensate with timing. My timing is basically un tuned. More than likely my timing isnt advanced enough to run as lean as I was. BTW, I was running high 16's, low 17's. You live and learn though, once im back up and running, I'll either need to tune my timing better or run a little richer.
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#83
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as part of your rebuild, get an EGT gauge. then you'll know. if you're cruising at 1800F.... well there you go. when I was running 16+:1 at cruise, I didn't see over 1400F at the turbo inlet.
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#85
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Anyone have any suggestions on where to get a new oil pump? I can only find used ones on ebay. I found this http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product1012.html but dont know anything about its quality.
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#88
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Wanna give me a short term loan?
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#89
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Found the correct pump. Thanks for the info on the one I posted Ben.
http://shop.autopartsfair.com/store/...6979+1667+6980
Anyone know of anywhere to get it any cheaper?
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http://shop.autopartsfair.com/store/...6979+1667+6980
Anyone know of anywhere to get it any cheaper?
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#90
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Roll your eyes all you want. It's your motor and your money. Feel free to blow both.
As memory serves, that's about the same price as the OE mazda pump. I'd get the OE pump + the billet gears. But see above perspective.
As memory serves, that's about the same price as the OE mazda pump. I'd get the OE pump + the billet gears. But see above perspective.
#92
Found the correct pump. Thanks for the info on the one I posted Ben.
http://shop.autopartsfair.com/store/...6979+1667+6980
Anyone know of anywhere to get it any cheaper?
http://shop.autopartsfair.com/store/...6979+1667+6980
Anyone know of anywhere to get it any cheaper?
U can get this a ur local advanced and skip the shipping...
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...Number=0280377
#93
And I reaaaaallly hope u can find cheaper than this for Mazda pump...
http://www.mazdapartscheap.com/ = $260!!!
http://www.mazdapartscheap.com/ = $260!!!
#94
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I dont get you guys. I have done a lot searching the past few days and found that there are a few doing a mild build with much support. Samnavy/BenR to name a couple. Sam was planning on doing exactly what im thinking about before he decided he wanted an NB.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...t=15045&page=3
I know my list is missing a couple of things, oil pump, water pump, and timing belt kit.. But where im saving on labor because the builder is a friend it will make up for those things. As for head bolts is seems the consensus is that they are fine.
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https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...t=15045&page=3
It's pretty much exactly what I expected.
Rods: $320
Rebuild Kit: $300 + upgrades of $150= $450
Tri-Coat pistons: $100
Labor: $800
Total of: $1700... a little slop= $1800total.
It'll probably be a little more in the end, and I do need a new clutch disc... so the consensus of $2000 for a mild build is accurate.
Rods: $320
Rebuild Kit: $300 + upgrades of $150= $450
Tri-Coat pistons: $100
Labor: $800
Total of: $1700... a little slop= $1800total.
It'll probably be a little more in the end, and I do need a new clutch disc... so the consensus of $2000 for a mild build is accurate.
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#95
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Eagle rods from lightining motor sports= $339
Tri coating stock pistons= $120
Used pistons that have never seen boost= $55
Oil pump= $180
New tb kit/water pump $100
Labor/machine work/bearings/rings $600-$700
Refresh head= $130
Complete gasket kit= I already have.
All that= $1630. Of course I would set aside a couple hundred for anything else. So lets say $1830.
Why do you guys find this so hard to believe? If theres anything crucial im missing please let me know.
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Tri coating stock pistons= $120
Used pistons that have never seen boost= $55
Oil pump= $180
New tb kit/water pump $100
Labor/machine work/bearings/rings $600-$700
Refresh head= $130
Complete gasket kit= I already have.
All that= $1630. Of course I would set aside a couple hundred for anything else. So lets say $1830.
Why do you guys find this so hard to believe? If theres anything crucial im missing please let me know.
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Last edited by levnubhin; 09-07-2008 at 02:03 PM.
#96
Why the mls one? I searched around here and plenty of people say the stock gasket and bolts are just fine. I dont ever have plans for huge power. 200-220 and i'll be happy for a good while.
Id like to spend as little as possible.
No I didnt do a leakdown. I was going to do a compression test but I knew I had a leak somewhere so I figured the readings wouldnt be right anyway.
Id like to spend as little as possible.
No I didnt do a leakdown. I was going to do a compression test but I knew I had a leak somewhere so I figured the readings wouldnt be right anyway.
Consider the following: I have an 86' isuzu trooper. It's old, it's not much, but it runs. If the motor blew up tomorrow, I'd probably fix the truck as I like it. Besides I have too much money in it to let it go now. But I damn sure wouldn't sink 2k into it rebuilding it when it's easy to find another good motor in the local junk yards for cheap. I would like to turbocharge this truck one day, for the hell of it. You can buy forged internals for this motor. It's also common to do a conversion to a newer trooper engine. But I'd never do that cause the stock motor in it will do fine, and it's too cheap and easy to replace.
Now, if you had said, "I plan to make this car a drag car but it will be my DD too. I will be putting a huge turbo and nitrous on it very soon. What should I do to the motor?" , the consensus would be different. But for your modest goals a new motor isn't necessary. Too many people run stock motors reliably at your power levels.
If I were you, I'd swap in another stock 1.6 for CHEAP or buy the built motor that's posted above. Well, I would buy 10 spare motors instead of the built one, but that's me...
#97
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Remember this? That's why everyone's saying don't rebuild.
Consider the following: I have an 86' isuzu trooper. It's old, it's not much, but it runs. If the motor blew up tomorrow, I'd probably fix the truck as I like it. Besides I have too much money in it to let it go now. But I damn sure wouldn't sink 2k into it rebuilding it when it's easy to find another good motor in the local junk yards for cheap. I would like to turbocharge this truck one day, for the hell of it. You can buy forged internals for this motor. It's also common to do a conversion to a newer trooper engine. But I'd never do that cause the stock motor in it will do fine, and it's too cheap and easy to replace.
Now, if you had said, "I plan to make this car a drag car but it will be my DD too. I will be putting a huge turbo and nitrous on it very soon. What should I do to the motor?" , the consensus would be different. But for your modest goals a new motor isn't necessary. Too many people run stock motors reliably at your power levels.
If I were you, I'd swap in another stock 1.6 for CHEAP or buy the built motor that's posted above. Well, I would buy 10 spare motors instead of the built one, but that's me...
Consider the following: I have an 86' isuzu trooper. It's old, it's not much, but it runs. If the motor blew up tomorrow, I'd probably fix the truck as I like it. Besides I have too much money in it to let it go now. But I damn sure wouldn't sink 2k into it rebuilding it when it's easy to find another good motor in the local junk yards for cheap. I would like to turbocharge this truck one day, for the hell of it. You can buy forged internals for this motor. It's also common to do a conversion to a newer trooper engine. But I'd never do that cause the stock motor in it will do fine, and it's too cheap and easy to replace.
Now, if you had said, "I plan to make this car a drag car but it will be my DD too. I will be putting a huge turbo and nitrous on it very soon. What should I do to the motor?" , the consensus would be different. But for your modest goals a new motor isn't necessary. Too many people run stock motors reliably at your power levels.
If I were you, I'd swap in another stock 1.6 for CHEAP or buy the built motor that's posted above. Well, I would buy 10 spare motors instead of the built one, but that's me...
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