Pulley Wobble on my fully built motor!!
#104
Position cylinder #1 at the beginning of the compression stroke. If you have the timing belt off, just move the cams so that #1 valves are closed and you can do it on any stroke.
Feed a foot of cotton clothesline into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and turn the crank to compress the rope.
If too chicken to do the starter method, you can also do this to remove the bolt by dropping the #1 cylinder down, timing belt off, make sure that the #1 valves are closed and turn the crank backward to compress the rope.
Feed a foot of cotton clothesline into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and turn the crank to compress the rope.
If too chicken to do the starter method, you can also do this to remove the bolt by dropping the #1 cylinder down, timing belt off, make sure that the #1 valves are closed and turn the crank backward to compress the rope.
#106
Position cylinder #1 at the beginning of the compression stroke. If you have the timing belt off, just move the cams so that #1 valves are closed and you can do it on any stroke.
Feed a foot of cotton clothesline into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and turn the crank to compress the rope.
If too chicken to do the starter method, you can also do this to remove the bolt by dropping the #1 cylinder down, timing belt off, make sure that the #1 valves are closed and turn the crank backward to compress the rope.
Feed a foot of cotton clothesline into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and turn the crank to compress the rope.
If too chicken to do the starter method, you can also do this to remove the bolt by dropping the #1 cylinder down, timing belt off, make sure that the #1 valves are closed and turn the crank backward to compress the rope.
#107
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Rope in cylinder,
piston comes up and compresses the rope (valves closed to no chance rope getting pinched)
piston cannot reach TDC because rope is blocking it.
Result - You are now able to tighten the crank bolt without having to hold the engine in place
#108
I'll take a stab at it...
Rope in cylinder,
piston comes up and compresses the rope (valves closed to no chance rope getting pinched)
piston cannot reach TDC because rope is blocking it.
Result - You are now able to tighten the crank bolt without having to hold the engine in place
Rope in cylinder,
piston comes up and compresses the rope (valves closed to no chance rope getting pinched)
piston cannot reach TDC because rope is blocking it.
Result - You are now able to tighten the crank bolt without having to hold the engine in place
#111
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So the crank keyway has no wear in it but the nose of the crank is uneven. It's like the guy shaved about an inch of the crank nose off. It's not even straight. The cut is slanted... So after putting everything back on.. Their is still a wobble at idle. Though when the engine reaches over about 1200rpm. Theres no wobble at all..
#113
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Its not "bent" its worn out more so on one side than it is on the other because the pulley was able to rotate few degrees each way each time you step and let go of the gas carving its way into the crank. On my NA it was the same way (ended up trading it in at the dealer). The proper way to fix it other than replace the crank would be to pull the crank, take .020-.040 cut off of it, get that **** welded all around. Toss it on a high precision grinding machine and grind it down to size then mill out another keyway. Another way would be to add a hardened sleeve instead of welding it.
I guess that motors gonna blow the **** up I suppose. Bye Bye 10k motor =[
#116
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Please... "tasty danish" find me a crank for $100.00 . What method do you suggest? File down my crank even more? If I shave more down to make it even there will be barely any threads for the bolt to grab onto.. I'm a full time college student and don't have the money to pay someone to pull the motor and put in a new crank. Nor do I have the knowledge, parts or time to do all of this.
Better yet weld it like that other guy said? That is a sure proof way to blow the **** out of a motor in a short period of time.
I'm better off driving it until it blows unless someone wants to buy the entire car or motor.
Better yet weld it like that other guy said? That is a sure proof way to blow the **** out of a motor in a short period of time.
I'm better off driving it until it blows unless someone wants to buy the entire car or motor.
#119
Please... "tasty danish" find me a crank for $100.00 . What method do you suggest? File down my crank even more? If I shave more down to make it even there will be barely any threads for the bolt to grab onto.. I'm a full time college student and don't have the money to pay someone to pull the motor and put in a new crank. Nor do I have the knowledge, parts or time to do all of this.
Better yet weld it like that other guy said? That is a sure proof way to blow the **** out of a motor in a short period of time.
I'm better off driving it until it blows unless someone wants to buy the entire car or motor.
Better yet weld it like that other guy said? That is a sure proof way to blow the **** out of a motor in a short period of time.
I'm better off driving it until it blows unless someone wants to buy the entire car or motor.
And how would welding the crank be a sure way to blow your ****? Even more sure fire than running haggard-*** busted ****? Again, new crank, $50. Or if it's knife edged and all the JDM fa66otry, weld it. If you think pulling an engine is hard... oy vey... Rent a crane, spend an afternoon, DONE.
Better yet, don't listen to the guys that have been there done that, and are trying to help you. Spend extra money and get sick of this car and sell it. I'm sure some of us out there need parts.