w8lifter21

iTrader: (1)

I have an SAFC from a previous car and was wondering if I would/should use it to help with engine management? I have searched but I haven't found any conclusive answers. Just alot of "it sucks", "just buy a _____", but no real info as to why. Whichever turbo kit I go with will probably be used, and may or may not come with engine management. Is this something that I can/should use or are there other options I should consider? I'm not going for max hp or an all out street beast. I want something basic that gets the job done well and is RELIABLE. When it comes to fuel management, I think Ron Popeil says it best.....

"Just set it and forget it!"

hustler

iTrader: (6)

its dumb to get something other than MSpnp if your OBD1

brgracer

iTrader: (14)

From what I gather, the SAFC only controls fuel so you'd still need something to adjust your timing. For not that much more, I'd look into the Megasquirt as it will do both timing and fuel (plus a whole lot more) as well as give you much better resolution of your fueling.

A few people have had success with the SAFC, but I'm not sure they are still around. I wouldn't say the SAFC sucks, but there are much more accurate ways to control fuel. Hell, some people just run higher output fuel pumps and AFPRs (I used to), but at the end of the day it comes down to accurate control which = more reliable/safer.

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Underdog did it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...light=underdog

w8lifter21

iTrader: (1)

I have no problem installing the SAFC, it's the "tuning" portion of it where I lack knowledge lol. Is it possible to just change the FPR, andjust timing, and then i'd be all set? I'd be a little weary of self tuning. I know what the adjustments do, I just don't know how to interpret the readings I get on a wideband, laptop, etc.
Example:
Good friend of mine had the AEM wideband on his Evo with an SAFC. I went and rode along in the back seat while a guy was street tuning it. I would see the numbers change on the WB, but I had no idea what the numbers meant at a given rpm. I can push buttons and notice when the numbers change, I just can't tell if what I am seeing is good or bad LOL.

I want to be able to drive the car, watch the WB and then be able to realize/think to myself "crap, between 3k-4k I am running real lean. I better change it until I see xx.x show on the WB in that range."

brgracer

iTrader: (14)

That's how the GReddy kit does it for a low (~5psi) boost setup. You retard your timing and add a FPR to raise fuel pressure. No offense, but probably your best option until you understand tuning/WBs a little bit more.

w8lifter21

iTrader: (1)

No offense taken if it keeps me from blowing my motor. Is there a particular FPR I should go with(or what psi should I be at) if I don't end up going with a Greddy kit? I was definetly planning on staying low boost for a while, as in <5psi, until I can get a better grasp of tuning. Suggestions as to what FPR to go with and maybe what I would need to get for the oil feed/return? I have read a few people going with a sandwhich plate, but haven't been able to find pro's cons of going this route vs going straight to the block and pan. Also, in what application would I need to run an oil restrictor to the turbo?(I assume most kits you don't but figured i'd ask anyway)

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

see my faq, its the sticky in the DIY section.

w8lifter21

iTrader: (1)

Ah, never been in the DIY secton haha. Let the reading begin.....

w8lifter21

iTrader: (1)

One more quick question. Let's say the Greddy kit, does it come with a BOV or are they even needed on such a low boost application?(No I'm not just looking for the Woosh. I actually want to know if it's needed)

brgracer

iTrader: (14)

Not absolutely necessary. I'd suggest reading up and planning out a setup a little before pulling the trigger on anything. The BEGi S-kit or a simple DIY might be a great starting point rather than the GReddy. Don't get me wrong, I ran a GReddy and I loved it and learned a lot, but if I could do it over now, I'd go a different route. As much as you tell yourself a low boost setup is all you want, you'll get addicted real quick.

w8lifter21

iTrader: (1)

Oh I know, I got the boost bug with my 300zx TT. First few weeks I was like wow, cool this car is quick. Then I took my friends stage V for a spin and it was all over from there haha.

brgracer(or anyone else), if you had to go a different route, what would you do different or what route would you take for a "wanna be turbo" owner like myself? Besides the options stated already.

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

I would've bought a used kit minus fuel management, buy some big injectors and megasquirt and then be done with it for a whole lot less than buying stuff new.

Newbsauce

iTrader: (2)

A majority of us purchased the greddy as our "starter set" and moved up from there. With the options in the market today, its silly not to use the BEGI kit for the quality and customer service over the greddy issues (cracked manifold, damn wastegate).

Starting from NA again I'd probably:
Turbo base system (begi) + exhaust
tune.. enjoy
Torsen
Add I/C + bov + fuel + boost
tune.. enjoy
Add bigger turbo later

brgracer

iTrader: (14)

I'd probably get a megasquirt setup running NA with larger injectors first with a wideband to get familiar with tuning and then either buy a BEGi S-kit or used turbo setup.