mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

What is the difference between solid and tubular sway bars for the 90 miata? The tubular costs a bit more but why?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

cause they are better. lighter and stiffer. one tubular front bar and the stock rear bar is where it's at.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

I just sold my FM bars for that exact setup.

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mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

do the bars come with the metal brackets? i lost one and thats the reason i don't currently have a front sway bar

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

they gotta come with bushings and brackets, else no workie.

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

doi i should have knew that, they are a different diameter, THANKS

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Why stock rear, and does this apply only to the 90?

jasonrobo02

iTrader: (13)

Whatever tuning advice you get is rarely year specific. This advice applies to pretty much all year miatas with stockish spring rates or heavier springs with stockish f/r bias. Many feel that swaybar sets sold by FM, RB, etc. give the car too much of an oversteer bias. Check out FatCatMotorsports spreadsheet if you want to get a better idea of what front and/or rear sways will do for you.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

^ Very good to know, I think I will def check that out.

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

hollow bar up front no sway or stock sway in the back=the sex in a miata
well, i hope that dont sound wrong, i dont meant sex IN the miata, more like sexinthe miata

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

word big front no rear ftw.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

+2.

My setup = FM springs, FCM Bilsteins & mounts, solid Moss / JR front bar and no rear bar, with Torsen. Front camber = -1.5°, rear = -2.0°, Front toe = 0, rear toe = 1/16" in (per side). Gives the car a very slight understeer bias, yet still throttle-steerable.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Is the hollow larger RB worth it for me to sell my brand new discounted set of FM sways in order to buy the now discounted RB bar through emilio? I plan to run some sort of koni stiff spring setup and some point.

jasonrobo02

iTrader: (13)

I seem to remember that the torsional stiffness is very close between the RB hollow and the FM bar. If you're looking to shave LBS off, then it would be worth it (it's lighter than stock), but I personally wouldn't do it since you'll probably have to spend $50 or so and I doubt that you would be able to tell the difference. I have the RB hollow, but that's because it was a small price delta and I did it up front.
I received this same discount from another m.net sponsor without even asking for it or jumping through any hoops. I didn't even know the guy. So don't feel like this is a once in a lifetime deal.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

it all depends on spring rates, valving, and alignment.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Guess i'll keep the FM bars then. I only have 180 in them, i'd be out more going with the RB so fahgetaboutit.

Pitlab77

iTrader: (3)

I have the 1" FM bar on full stiff in the front, and the stock bar in the rear FTW in autoX

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Am I the only who's gone bigger in the rear?

paul

iTrader: (21)

i've gone with a bigger sway in the rear too but thats because i run 7.5" rims with 215s in back and 6" with 195s up front. so i have bigger in the front and rear.

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

wait so with the offset front and rear i'll need to upgrade the rear bar? I'll have 225's rear and 205's up front