Sorted out all my LC1 problems, but one.
12-27-2007, 01:48 PM
#22
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,710
Total Cats: 3
Why are you guys making it so difficult? Buy an add-a-fuse, and use the engine fuse. It provides 12V+ when key is in 3rd position, cranking, and running. Power solved.
I have a 2001 so the ECU is right under my feet, along with the wiring for the gauge, and everything else I shove above the footwell. I use a mini add a fuse, tap the box by your left kneecap, and the power wire runs three inches to the controller.
I have a 2001 so the ECU is right under my feet, along with the wiring for the gauge, and everything else I shove above the footwell. I use a mini add a fuse, tap the box by your left kneecap, and the power wire runs three inches to the controller.
I think it DOES say in the manual to use a powered when cranking source. I'm not going to open it up and quote the text for ya this time though.
The MS uses more power than the stock ecu did. When there's additional power demand, you should add additional power delivery capability. It's your car, so you can do WTF you want. But if you want to ask for advice from people who have already successfully accomplished what you haven't, you should at least listen to it.
But WTF do I know. I've only been running my LC/XD for 18 months and a MS for 6 months.
The MS uses more power than the stock ecu did. When there's additional power demand, you should add additional power delivery capability. It's your car, so you can do WTF you want. But if you want to ask for advice from people who have already successfully accomplished what you haven't, you should at least listen to it.
But WTF do I know. I've only been running my LC/XD for 18 months and a MS for 6 months.
Even their video says to use a switched 12volt source.
I am not trying, really I am not. I want to solve this as easily as I solved all my other issues.
Reply
0
0
12-29-2007, 03:27 PM
#26
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,710
Total Cats: 3
Well that was easy. The maf harness wires were right there where my LC1 controller is, next to the clutch master cylinder. I tapped the white with red stripe all is well.
No running wires to batteries or reinventing the wheel.
No running wires to batteries or reinventing the wheel.
Reply
0
0
10-16-2008, 06:43 PM
#31
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,710
Total Cats: 3
Yea, I resolved the problem.
I took the harsh criticism in the many threads I made about my LC1 problems and read the manual word for word and followed it EXACTLY.
OZMX5 where are you getting power, where are your grounds, do you have the LC1 outputting to something other then a gauge?
I took the harsh criticism in the many threads I made about my LC1 problems and read the manual word for word and followed it EXACTLY.
OZMX5 where are you getting power, where are your grounds, do you have the LC1 outputting to something other then a gauge?
Reply
0
0
10-16-2008, 07:43 PM
#33
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,710
Total Cats: 3
While it was under the hood, before I got the turbo going, I solved all the problems by tapping it off the MAF power, white with a red stripe.
Grounded to the strap behind the block. I also had a megasquirt ground ran there.
Now I have it powered from the ECU power behind the passenger seat. Its grounded to the chassis(ECU bracket) with one of the ground of the megasquirt.
Megasquirt also has one ground running to the engine bay thats still grounded to the block.
The biggest problem for the LC1 is a power source that turns on and off very quickly, it has to be HOT during cranking.
Grounded to the strap behind the block. I also had a megasquirt ground ran there.
Now I have it powered from the ECU power behind the passenger seat. Its grounded to the chassis(ECU bracket) with one of the ground of the megasquirt.
Megasquirt also has one ground running to the engine bay thats still grounded to the block.
The biggest problem for the LC1 is a power source that turns on and off very quickly, it has to be HOT during cranking.
Reply
0
0
10-16-2008, 08:53 PM
#36
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 46
Total Cats: 0
I have an NA8 so ground for the LC-1 is attached to the standard ECU ground under the throttle body.
And no, the only output from my LC-1 is into MegaSquirt. The "gauge" I mentioned in the message I sent you is an on-screen display, not a standalone gauges as such.
alot of people in other threads state "do a free-air calibration" but I don't think it will solve it, as it's a random occurrence.
Reply
0
0
10-16-2008, 09:15 PM
#38
Elite Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,847
Total Cats: 27
FYI - When I was having trouble with my LC-1, Innovate Tech support suggested over the phone that I use a power source that is NOT on during cranking. They had seen problems with corruption of data due to the voltage drop during cranking. So even though the manual says to have it hot during cranking, at least according to Innovate tech support it does not have to be that way, and changing this can actually solve some issues.
Long story short I tried it both ways and still had problems. I have since sent my LC-1 and sensor back to Innovate to get checked out. I have not heard back from them yet as they just got it yesterday.
Long story short I tried it both ways and still had problems. I have since sent my LC-1 and sensor back to Innovate to get checked out. I have not heard back from them yet as they just got it yesterday.
Reply
0
0
10-16-2008, 10:13 PM
#40
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,710
Total Cats: 3
I want to say english is not my first language but taking into account how long I live in this country that would probably be a lie.
Besides, its not like im getting graded or anything.
Reply
0
0
