Mach929

iTrader: (3)

anyone have any secrets or tips? all seals have been changed, flywheel has been resurfaced. New act xtreme clutch kit. everything is bolted up ready to go but myself and john(stripes) spent all day wrestling with this damn thing. doesn't want to go in the last 1/4 - 1/2 inch.

F20turbo

you did use a clutch alignment tool correct? Mine always slips right back in there.

Mach929

iTrader: (3)

yeah, used 2 clutch alignment tools. Funny thing about them though is they are plastic and can i wiggle the clutch disk around a bit even with the tool all the way in there, i tried to get lined up as best i could.

Tex Miata

Had that problem once. I got it as close as humanly possible then started tightening the bolts up slowly, and that got it the remainder of the way. I was told to grease the input shaft with some light grease next time and it went in with no problem. Also, if you put a jack under the front of the oil pan (carefully) and change the angle of the engine it may help. You're not getting hung up on the clutch line or some other obstruction, are you?

turbopezz

throw out bearing is in the way it came out?

Mach929

iTrader: (3)

definitely no obstructions, throw out bearing is on properly. done for today, next time i'll try aligning clutch again, lube some more.

b1m2x3

i was told you should never have to do that to get it back on...
but i had to do that on the gto and the miata...

humm it worked...

Al Hounos

I used the bolts to get it that last 1/2 inch.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

Having just reinstalled my tranny 3 times in the last three weeks... well lets see.

The pilot bearing needs to be perfectly aligned in the flywheel or it'll cause problems.

The steel gasket around the perimeter needs to be slipped over the two circular bosses on each side so it's flush with the block.

The PPF wiring harness will pull the starter and clutch slave line into your tranny while reinstalling. support the ppf before you get the tranny all the way in and move them back out of the way so they dont touch the steel gasket.

Angle is critical. I use the oem scissor jack on some wood blocks under the A/C bracket (if you have one) to tilt the engine up and align it better.

Basically I had mine mount up flush with no bolts and it slipped in really easy. You get it 90% there with a floor jack on the balance point (just in front of the train plug protector boss) and slide the jack sideways to install.

Matt

adbradley

iTrader: (2)

I had the same thing happen to me, and unfortunatly i was under the car bench pressing the transmission back into place all alone. I got it in, and i thought it was lined up, and started cranking the bolts down and it wouldnt go the last 1/2 inch.. Only thing i did to fix it was pull it back out, re-align the cluth, and try it again, it slid into place that time.

Neat trick that helpped me get it back in place alone..
I ran a rope around the tail of the trans, and brought it up through the shift lever hole in the floor, then used the rope to pull the rear of the trans in to place, and tied it to a board that went across the shift lever hole. This held the rear of the trans while i lifted the other end into place by hand.. Also alowed it to swing from front to rear..


Extra note..

Removing and Reinstalling a trans alone is shitty

adbradley

iTrader: (2)

I did use a wrench and turn the crank over about 1/8 turn..

Pitlab77

iTrader: (3)

get a friend to push up and back on the motor

y8s

iTrader: (8)

That's what I was doin... I have this great technique:

I get my harbor freight aluminum "racing" jack and get it under the tranny in the middle. Start by lifting up the tail and sliding the jack in with the other hand (by the side bars).

Then I grab some wood scraps. One 3/4" high and one maybe 1-3/8 to 1-1/2 high (the difference between the filler plug/boss and the bottom of that flat area). I put them under the tranny so it's balanced on the jack. If you do it right, it wont all fall down on your head. It's RELATIVELY stable, but just to be safe, don't hang out under it while you're foolin around with height.

Once it's stable, you can slowly jack it up (6" rearward of normal position so you don't hit the subframe). Then once you're about half way up and the bosses are clear of the subframe, push down on the jack handle to take the weight off the jack's front wheels and walk the tranny forward closer to the motor.

(You should already have the stock scissor jack under the front of the motor to get the right angle or a little more for ease of install)

Continue lifting and walking the tranny forward til you've just got the input shaft within the fingers of the clutch... then slide under the car on your creeper or cardboard (you know, the one you use to practice breakdancing). From there you can continue this process but while you're under the car (from the side!) you can aim the tranny and tweak the angle of the motor.

The acrobatic cool part:
Laying next to the jack, use your right leg to push down on the handle either to jack up or put pressure so you can move the jack. Nudge the jack to move the tranny closer and engage the input shaft. Be VERY careful not to slide the jack out from under the tranny. You can ue safety ropes from above as long as they dont hinder the movement. Also dont drop the PPF on your head.

Once you get closer, start the bolts on top and bottom by hand. Get everything to a stable position with the tranny however far off the motor it is and drop the jack a TINY bit (the bolts should hold the load for now).

Grab the tail of the tranny and the middle near the jack and lift and wiggle til it slips in. if it doesn't go easy, check the space around the top right where the starter is for crap in the way. Also check the metal gasket to make sure it's fully seated on the motor surface. The two bosses are gonna be the key points to watch. Screwdrivers help here.

And that's the best advice I got. Otherwise when you put the alignment tool in, you can wiggle the thing in a circle and the place you want to stop is the center of that circle. That'll make sure the shaft lines up with the bearing instead of heading in at an angle. I think that's where the "pulling it in with the bolts" really makes an adjustment. You're probably realigning the clutch disk.

Matt

Mach929

iTrader: (3)

Ok got the trans back on today. We took the advice of some of the above posters to use the bolts to bring it in the rest of the way. Worked fine but we were just hesitant to do that since johns trans popped all the way in by hand. We got it as far as we could by hand and with the trans in first gear cranked the engine over with a 1/2 ratchet on the crankshast to make sure the drive shaft turned. It did so we figured the splines must be lined up so we took it in the rest of the way with the bolts. everything feels great, act extreme is about twice as heavy as stock but still very easy to drive felt normal after 15 minutes of driving. And the thing grabs real quick off the floor. I suppose i should have been babying it to break it in for like 500 miles but i only lasted 4 blocks before i couldn't resist making sure it held 10psi, and it does just fine . Car feels great, not quite as fast as i thought it would at 10psi but still a big improvement of 6psi. Very relieved it's finally done, you guys are great, thanks for helping me through this.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

luckily my ACT HD has been holding at 200-210rwhp. I'm afraid of the day it might start slipping as I'm pushing the limits wih it. But maybe it may save my rear