Saml01

iTrader: (9)

I can honestly say now, that I am an expert in anything LC1. No No, really, im serious.

I sorted out everything, the ground issues, the spontaneous loss of free air on subsequent starts, the heater ground issues, the error 8 issues(this was an interesting one). All of that is sorted.

One problem persists and this is totally TOTALLY random.

Sometimes, a whole day will pass, two days will pass, and it works perfectly. Ill start and stop the car, and it works flawlessly. Then out of the blue for no reason, it looses free air. DB gauge bobs around 7.7 - 10.5. Whats funny is that it reacts to the throttle too. No errors nothing.

Something tells me, it has to do with how I start my car. My LC1 is connected to a switched 12v. That means when the key is in the ON position, the LC1 turns on, when I crank it turns off and then turns back on. I have a feeling that OFF then ON is causing it to forget its settings because I am not giving it enough time between the ON position and Crank position.

Now in my mind, I think this could be a voltage spike freaking it out, or just it messing up because its not made to go from off to on to off to on so fast.

Thoughts? How do you start your cars if you have an LC1?

edit: Btw, sorry for bad mouthing the LC1, but it is a very finicky/sensitive peace of equipment.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

mine powers at key ON, stays on during cranking.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

What color wire did you tap for power? and Where?

I don't have the madracki documents on this computer. I want to know what color you used for on in run and crank. I could probably use the one on the harness at the ECU, but I want to get it under the hood.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Heres a stupid question.

When your sensor is in the heating stage, does the DB gauge just sit at one afr reading or does it climb .1 afr at a time till its warm at which point it goes to the proper AFR reading? Cause mine does the latter, takes like 20 seconds.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

mine sits at full rich untill it's warm. i tapped the power and ground off my MS harness. so red and black

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Hmm, weird.

Any idea where I can tap a red with a black stripe under the hood? Hopefully not from anything vital like the CAS.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

red/blk is probably TPS signal.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Sorry I miss understood you, just Red is right.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Pretty sure he's referring to the DB37 harness. Which would be a single red wire, and one of the black wires for the ground

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

under the hood, use the white/red wire of the CAS. or the Blue connector/wire near the driver headlight.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Damn, I really dont want to tap the cas for the power. I am using the blue connector near the headlight right now.

BenR

iTrader: (2)

Does you battery have enough amps?


Mine stays on when I start the car. I'm powered off the radio hot.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

My battery has plenty of amps, but if you run it off the radio hot then that means your LC1 is on all the time.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Run a lead right to your battery switched by a relay that fires off the ecu switched +12V. The ecu swtiched + does not loose power during cranking.

LC1 warm up output behavior can be configured in the progammer.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Ok, a little confused. But I think I got what you wrote.

You want me to run a line to my battery, connected to a relay, that is tripped using the ECU's 12 volt?

I dont really need to run it to the battery seeing as how I have a constant 12volt in the fuse box on the passenger side provided by the missing ABS fuse. The other thing is, I really really really dont want to run another wire from the ECU into the engine bay. That gromit is so damn narrow, it was damn near impossible to get the existing wires through it. Has to be a better way.

What if I wire in a capacitor in series on the switched 12v?

Ben

iTrader: (33)

don't be a tool. the battery is in the TRUNK, and getting a wire to it is stupid easy. it'll take ya 10 minutes to do it the right way.

you might be able to use the abs fuse position, but I don't know if it's powered when cranking or not. easiest/best is to go right to the battery.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

This is stupid if I have to go to the battery, and setup relays. Obscene. Their own manual doesn't call for any of this.

Besides, I don't want to run more wires then I have to especially when I know once the turbo is installed the current location of the LC1 will change.

I doubt every person on this board with an LC1 is running it the way you describe, unless everyone connected it to the ECU's power. If so, then im gonna start looking for that red wire.

I still think a cap may solve the problem.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I think it DOES say in the manual to use a powered when cranking source. I'm not going to open it up and quote the text for ya this time though.
The MS uses more power than the stock ecu did. When there's additional power demand, you should add additional power delivery capability. It's your car, so you can do WTF you want. But if you want to ask for advice from people who have already successfully accomplished what you haven't, you should at least listen to it.

But WTF do I know. I've only been running my LC/XD for 18 months and a MS for 6 months.

MX5-4me

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/v...r_content.html

compy

Why are you guys making it so difficult? Buy an add-a-fuse, and use the engine fuse. It provides 12V+ when key is in 3rd position, cranking, and running. Power solved.

I have a 2001 so the ECU is right under my feet, along with the wiring for the gauge, and everything else I shove above the footwell. I use a mini add a fuse, tap the box by your left kneecap, and the power wire runs three inches to the controller.