Braineack

iTrader: (62)

first project I've ever done without any hurdles, roadblock, issues, broken bolts, etc.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Well. How do the solid mounts feel on the road?

soflarick

iTrader: (8)

Curious myself. Please post impression.

Stealth97

iTrader: (5)

+1

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

all i did was attempt to drift around my cul-de-sac and then park it, but from what i could tell it seemed a bit more solid, but i didn't notice much else about it.


the great thing about that beefy rx7 carrier is the lack of the break away points! so no worries there at least.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

+1 for image resize mod.

Scott I didn't realize you went with a '7 rear end. is it the same as teh 1.6?

oh and also swapping a ring and pinion is a royal pain in my ***!! I'm glad I bought another bearing because the one that was on the 3.9 was stuck good. I ended up cutting it off and splitting it with a punch. dayam. I just reused the spacer so hopefully the pinion depth is "close enough" or, well, I suck.

I'm not worried about replacing the ring gear. that's easy.

ApexOnYou

iTrader: (10)

Who makes that single DIN gauge panel?

rappadan

iTrader: (2)

yaaaaaaaa good stuff, lots of progress done today. I totally forgot to call you. We had a crazy birthday for my grandma(83) in centerville today. And i am letting you know next sunday the 9th Summit Point DRIFTING!!!!!!!!!!

chriscar

iTrader: (24)

If that's the panel I think it is, you can get it fron DopeRoadster at cr.net for $30. I just got one and installed it yesterday but moved the radio down to the bottom spot.

C

Mach929

iTrader: (3)

lookin good scott keep up to the good work spring is around the corner!!

Noah

looks good man. what do you think about jakes diff bushings?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yep I've had it. RX7 clutch type LSD.

Luckily i just happened to have a spare Rx7 diff sitting around my garage, so i was able to simply swap the carrier.

One thing I've noticed, the 1.6L open rear assembly I can lift by myself, my rear with 1.8L brakes and the 7"; two of us could barely lift.


answer: If that's the panel I think it is, you can get it from DopeRoadster at cr.net for $30.

I honestly didn't drive it but down the street and back (my front alignment has positive camber), but i tried to whip the back out to feel it and it's one of those things you can tell is there but I dunno how to describe. As it was I didn't notce any extra vibrations it just felt good. It's going to be coupled with MSM motor mounts so the end result so be pretty nice when I'm finally done.

mike_671

iTrader: (4)

so when are you dropping your turbo kit on there.. or are you going with a different set up this time

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

im swapping the engine and tranny over, will happen in the next couple of weeks. will have MSM motor mounts, BEGi water by-pass, and new clutch disc. that's about the only difference as far as the turbo setup. Shoot, i need to get my muffler fixed in the meantime.

mike_671

iTrader: (4)

that sounds good to me cant wait to see the car when its done

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

wow, lots of progress, feels good when you get stuff done!

you can tell that car has been reprayed by looking at the muffler, but they did tell you it was resprayed right? looks good though

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yeah i knew. the bright red radiator gave it away too.

actually the first thing I said when she open the garage was "has it been repainted" if you just look at it you can tell.

supersuk

iTrader: (5)

How hard was it to remove the rear subframe? I'm gonna be doin that from my parts miata soon to get rid of my 1.6 rear end and transplant the 1.8 rear end. Thought it might just be easier to replace the subframe than to replace the diff and axles.

Did you have to take off the PPF from the car to do it?

Noah

its not too hard just watch your brake ones when you drop it out. i think it was 4 bolts that actually hold it to the chassis

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

It was really easy, but I had a tranny jack. which is a must, unless you're clever with a regular jack.

really here is all you gotta do:

drop exhaust (2) 14mm bolts
remove driveshaft (4) 14mm bolts
remove PPF from diff (2) 17mm bolts (2) 14mm bolts)
remove E-brake levers (2) 12mm, iirc
remove brake line (1) 10mm
remove shock mounts (4) 14mm bolts
disconnect rear assembly from shell (4) 19mm nut (2) 19mm bolts - require deep 19mm on (2)

that's about it.