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For those that have driven a K swap and a turbo

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Old 11-14-2016, 08:33 PM
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Default For those that have driven a K swap and a turbo

While I love, I mean absolutely love my 2560 set up...I have been wondering . On the track, for those that have driven a K and a turbo miata, what was your take away from the experience? I am not sure about losing 75 hp and 100+tq.

What lures me to the K, is the reduced complexity. I really want to hit the track a lot next year, and I have my concerns regarding the longevity of a turbo vs a stock k24.

Another driving force, is the concern for staying out of jail. with 300 hp on tap all you have to do is breathe on the gas pedal and you are in triple digits. My state doesn't F around with speeding .
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Old 11-14-2016, 09:04 PM
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I want a turbo k series
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Old 11-14-2016, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
I want a turbo k series
I knew that was coming . the idea is to stay OUT of prison.
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Old 11-14-2016, 09:28 PM
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I drove a k swap. It was good, and would probably be reliable. I still like turbos more.
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Old 11-14-2016, 09:30 PM
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Good data point.
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Old 11-14-2016, 11:37 PM
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Get another car and k swap that.

Have both.

Profit.
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Old 11-15-2016, 10:27 AM
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The world needs a Miata with a supercharged K24 and a T5 transmission swap.
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Old 11-15-2016, 10:27 AM
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Ew. gross. why.

s2k transmission.
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Old 11-15-2016, 03:26 PM
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My biased opinion may not matter much, but of course I've driven both, with much more seat time in K series cars obviously.

A proper K24 setup should do what you're asking for. It's simple and lighter, and any previous issues with high temps will be gone immediately. It certainly won't be slow. As a point of reference, our K car always pulls on Miatas with turbo kits on the straights every time, with 230whp. Obviously big 300+hp turbo builds are going to be quicker.

The bonus is that if you get the itch for 300+whp again, its just an engine build away with stock sleeves, bore, stroke, and crank. A 220-230whp K swap is just scratching the surface of the platform.

To those asking about a T5 trans swap, stay tuned, we have something even better in the works right now. 2017 is going to be an awesome year for making huge power in these little cars..
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Old 11-15-2016, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by KMiata
My biased opinion may not matter much, but of course I've driven both, with much more seat time in K series cars obviously.

A proper K24 setup should do what you're asking for. It's simple and lighter, and any previous issues with high temps will be gone immediately. It certainly won't be slow. As a point of reference, our K car always pulls on Miatas with turbo kits on the straights every time, with 230whp. Obviously big 300+hp turbo builds are going to be quicker.

The bonus is that if you get the itch for 300+whp again, its just an engine build away with stock sleeves, bore, stroke, and crank. A 220-230whp K swap is just scratching the surface of the platform.

To those asking about a T5 trans swap, stay tuned, we have something even better in the works right now. 2017 is going to be an awesome year for making huge power in these little cars..
Giggity.
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Old 11-15-2016, 03:36 PM
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T5, S2K, whatever. I'm thinking about a K-swap, but it would be nice to have something that can handle 350ft-lbs and not have me at 4k RPM on the highway without being a boat anchor. Glad to hear you're working on it.
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Old 11-15-2016, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by OptionXIII
T5, S2K, whatever. I'm thinking about a K-swap, but it would be nice to have something that can handle 350ft-lbs and not have me at 4k RPM on the highway without being a boat anchor. Glad to hear you're working on it.
Check, check, and check. More details should be posted before the end of the year.

Anyway, let's bring this thread back on track. Anyone else have experiences to share with the OP?
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Old 11-15-2016, 04:55 PM
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If you want to know what it's like to have 75 less horsepower and 100 foot pounds of torque then turn down the boost and go drive it around. Pull one of your injector harness plugs apart and go try to enjoy 75% of the power after being used to allofit.
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Old 11-15-2016, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
If you want to know what it's like to have 75 less horsepower and 100 foot pounds of torque then turn down the boost and go drive it around. Pull one of your injector harness plugs apart and go try to enjoy 75% of the power after being used to allofit.
Don't forget to take about 100lbs out of the front of the car too.

I'd go K over turbo BP for track use just for reliability and simplicity's sake.
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Old 11-15-2016, 06:40 PM
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100lbs?

Over a tubular subframe, AC/PS deleted BP?

Surprising.
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Old 11-15-2016, 06:54 PM
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Idk, David would know the difference between the K and the BP. Then subtract the turbo, all plumbing, intercooler, etc that goes along with the turbo BP. Might not be 100lbs but I'm sure it is a significant amount.
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Old 11-15-2016, 06:59 PM
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It's 369 lbs...give or take.
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Old 11-15-2016, 07:14 PM
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369 what? What is the weight different between a Kyle series and a BP longblock?
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Old 11-15-2016, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by unk577
Idk, David would know the difference between the K and the BP. Then subtract the turbo, all plumbing, intercooler, etc that goes along with the turbo BP. Might not be 100lbs but I'm sure it is a significant amount.
With our new aluminum oil pan, a K24 swap drops 30 lbs off the front of a BP powered car that already has A/C and P/S deleted. So weigh all the turbo parts, and subtract that number plus another 30 lbs.

How much weight does a typical turbo setup add?
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Old 11-15-2016, 07:27 PM
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What about tubular subframe.
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