zzyx7

iTrader: (4)

miatanutz -- so is even pressure the key here? I have a service manual and it suggests to do use two prybars, much like the techinique you have described. I'm pushing only on one side, so maybe I'm imparting some radial load onto the diff output CV that's locking it in?

Are there any circlips or lock rings on the inner CV to diff joint that I've forgotten?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

for the anus or the shaft...lol.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

There are only the circlips on the ends of the shafts that must deform as you pull the shafts. There is no way to remove them other than pulling them out. Wooden wedges cut from a hardwood might make you feel better than driving in steel wedges.

miatanutz

iTrader: (8)

In my experience even pressure on opposite sides will pop it right out.
Pushing on only one side seems to be problematic. I drive the ends of the prybar/screwdriver in with a mallet, alternating from side to side, then with one sharp motion push both at once. It should come right out.

zzyx7

iTrader: (4)

So.... after a lot of trouble and cursing, I finally got the torsen swapped in. The instructions on even pressure and impact loading were the key. I bought extra prybars, pried on both sides of the CV, gave one prybar some sharp hits w/ my fist and it came right out.

The big b*tch was when I found out that the original owner, who did the 1.8 diff swap the first time around, drilled out one of the rear diff top spacers and used some aftermarket bolt that didn't really fit. Ended up replacing the PPF w/ a spare one. Damn.

I've yet to drive it... but i'm stoked. Thanks to all for the great help!!

98 SNAKE EATER

Yes, equal pressure on both sides will get it out smoothly



98 Aztek T/A WS7 (FOR SALE!!)
70 Ram Air IV T/A
97 FZJ80 Locked
00 Lifted G16E
GhettoChopper
94 Mitsubishi MiniCab (SOLD!!)