Walbro 190hp Install
09-19-2006, 05:11 PM
#1
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Walbro 190hp Install
Got home this afternoon and did it. Pretty damn easy. I must caveat that I bought my Walbro already installed in the pump assembly. I did not have to actually mount the pump in the bracket.
Here goes:
1. Remove carpet above package shelf and push back over the top of the top. I used a big flat-bladed screwdriver to pry up the quarter-sized black plastic push-bolts that hold the carpet down.
2. Remove funky triangle shaped (small phillips) sheetmetal cover. Mine is badly rusted and I have chosen not to reinstall it and source a used one off a wreck to replace it.
3. Take electrical clip off. I didn't disconnect the battery although I probably should have. I hate reprogramming my radio.
4. VERY IMPORTANT: REMOVE SEVERAL OF THE SCREWS ON THE PUMP BEFORE TAKING THE HOSES OFF!!! The tank will probably be slightly pressurized if the car has been run or sitting in the sun... or just because. If you crack the seal there should be no pressure in the line at all. IE, no fuel spill. Ask me how I know. I only managed to soak two small hand towells that I had prepositioned under the lines just in case. I wouldn't have spilled anything if I'd cracked the tank first. Now that I think about it, just take the damn gas cap off beforehand!
5. Remove the rest of the screws from the cover and slowly remove the pump... careful not to bang anything around... hold it over the tank to let it drip for about 30 seconds, then slide it under a towell so as not to drip on the car.
6. (you will probably have to install your Walbro on the assembly now)
7. Prior to reinstalling, inspect the rubber seal on the underside for alignment and condition. Mine looked perfect.
8. Carefully feed the assembly back down in to the tank. Install screws in two rounds. First round, just get them threaded and lightly snugged. Once all of them are snugged, go around and crank them down... no sense in trying to warp the assembly plate.
9. Reconnect hoses. I replaced the stock pinch clips with small hose clamps to be on the safe side.
10. Prior to starting, I placed a small fan over the hole to make sure any drops or small amount of fuel that managed to pool in there somewhere was evaporated. Then I again prepositioned some towells under the lines in case on leaked... nothing to do about a hose blowing except shut it off immediately.... then clean.
11. Start engine. It cranked about twice as long as usual... 4 revolutions maybe and then caught. Idled as normal.
12. Reinstall metal cover and carpet... go for drive.
I'm gonna go for a drive as soon as the wife heads off to work. I let you know if I sense any driveability. I know there won't be a bit of difference that I will be able to tell... but I'll tell you anyway.
BIG ADVICE: Lay several towells of different sizes on the trunk-lid within arms reach. Lay towells along the backs of the seats if you want. NO SMOKING!!! If in the garage, have a fan blowing. Cover the hole up with a towell while you work on the pump assembly to minimize fumes and evaporation. Have a fire extinguisher close... in the kitchen pantry is not close enough.
Oh yah, and don't forget to cup the ballz.
Here goes:
1. Remove carpet above package shelf and push back over the top of the top. I used a big flat-bladed screwdriver to pry up the quarter-sized black plastic push-bolts that hold the carpet down.
2. Remove funky triangle shaped (small phillips) sheetmetal cover. Mine is badly rusted and I have chosen not to reinstall it and source a used one off a wreck to replace it.
3. Take electrical clip off. I didn't disconnect the battery although I probably should have. I hate reprogramming my radio.
4. VERY IMPORTANT: REMOVE SEVERAL OF THE SCREWS ON THE PUMP BEFORE TAKING THE HOSES OFF!!! The tank will probably be slightly pressurized if the car has been run or sitting in the sun... or just because. If you crack the seal there should be no pressure in the line at all. IE, no fuel spill. Ask me how I know. I only managed to soak two small hand towells that I had prepositioned under the lines just in case. I wouldn't have spilled anything if I'd cracked the tank first. Now that I think about it, just take the damn gas cap off beforehand!
5. Remove the rest of the screws from the cover and slowly remove the pump... careful not to bang anything around... hold it over the tank to let it drip for about 30 seconds, then slide it under a towell so as not to drip on the car.
6. (you will probably have to install your Walbro on the assembly now)
7. Prior to reinstalling, inspect the rubber seal on the underside for alignment and condition. Mine looked perfect.
8. Carefully feed the assembly back down in to the tank. Install screws in two rounds. First round, just get them threaded and lightly snugged. Once all of them are snugged, go around and crank them down... no sense in trying to warp the assembly plate.
9. Reconnect hoses. I replaced the stock pinch clips with small hose clamps to be on the safe side.
10. Prior to starting, I placed a small fan over the hole to make sure any drops or small amount of fuel that managed to pool in there somewhere was evaporated. Then I again prepositioned some towells under the lines in case on leaked... nothing to do about a hose blowing except shut it off immediately.... then clean.
11. Start engine. It cranked about twice as long as usual... 4 revolutions maybe and then caught. Idled as normal.
12. Reinstall metal cover and carpet... go for drive.
I'm gonna go for a drive as soon as the wife heads off to work. I let you know if I sense any driveability. I know there won't be a bit of difference that I will be able to tell... but I'll tell you anyway.
BIG ADVICE: Lay several towells of different sizes on the trunk-lid within arms reach. Lay towells along the backs of the seats if you want. NO SMOKING!!! If in the garage, have a fan blowing. Cover the hole up with a towell while you work on the pump assembly to minimize fumes and evaporation. Have a fire extinguisher close... in the kitchen pantry is not close enough.
Oh yah, and don't forget to cup the ballz.
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09-20-2006, 12:40 PM
#7
excellent post, will read again.
glad it went smoothly. i sold sam my walbro assy because i didn't need it with my link.
as for the rollbars, i sold my m1 HDHCDD for an M2 HDHCDD with harnes tabs. it's worth it and it went right in the same place as my m1 bar did. also, it allowed me to install an m2 softtop. the harness tabs work esier than the harness bar.
glad it went smoothly. i sold sam my walbro assy because i didn't need it with my link.
as for the rollbars, i sold my m1 HDHCDD for an M2 HDHCDD with harnes tabs. it's worth it and it went right in the same place as my m1 bar did. also, it allowed me to install an m2 softtop. the harness tabs work esier than the harness bar.
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12-03-2006, 05:52 PM
#8
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old thread, but how hard is it to modify the 94-97 fuel pump for the 90...you said you bought it assembled...what all is involved in mounting the pump to the factory bracket? just removing old pump and installing new one or is it a little more complicated than that?
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12-03-2006, 06:00 PM
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It is easy. You have to cut off the metal funnel that goes between the original pump and float assembly. Get the install kit with the walbro and it will come with a hose to use in place of the funnel.
It's less than an hours' work for the entire job.
It's less than an hours' work for the entire job.
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12-03-2006, 06:10 PM
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The only difference I saw between the stock one I took out and the new one I put in was that the old one was held on by a black rubber-band and the new one had zip ties... Ben says something about a funnel that I assume is a NB thing as I just looked at the pictures and except for the much shinier and slightly taller new pump, both the mounts/brackets look the same.
Anybody got a picture of this "funnel" or is it in the above shots of the pumps?
AND THAT MAKES 500 POSTS FOR THIS GUY RIGHT HERE!!!
Anybody got a picture of this "funnel" or is it in the above shots of the pumps?
AND THAT MAKES 500 POSTS FOR THIS GUY RIGHT HERE!!!
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12-03-2006, 06:24 PM
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I'm talking 90-93 NA. The 1.8 fuel pump is just a little taller than the 1.6 fuel pump. The metal funnel is how the hard line makes contact with the outlet of the oem fuel pump, but it's too long to fit the new taller pump.
You cut this funnel off with a zis wheel or even a hand saw if that's all you have. Then you use a new section of rubber hose between the hard pipe on the assembly and the new pump, clamped securely at either end. This can be seen clearly if you compare the assembly on the left with the assembly on the right. On the left pic, see how the copper colored hard fuel line flares out where it meets the pump? Look at the right pic and you'll see that the hard line has been cut and a rubber hose connects the new pump to the hard line.
I used a metal hose clamp to secure the new pump to the assembly. I don't have enough faith in zip ties to use them in this critical application. Oh, the new pump also comes with a sleeve that is supposed to be installed on the pump before you clamp it to the assembly. The sleeve helps to quiet down the walbro whine.
You cut this funnel off with a zis wheel or even a hand saw if that's all you have. Then you use a new section of rubber hose between the hard pipe on the assembly and the new pump, clamped securely at either end. This can be seen clearly if you compare the assembly on the left with the assembly on the right. On the left pic, see how the copper colored hard fuel line flares out where it meets the pump? Look at the right pic and you'll see that the hard line has been cut and a rubber hose connects the new pump to the hard line.
I used a metal hose clamp to secure the new pump to the assembly. I don't have enough faith in zip ties to use them in this critical application. Oh, the new pump also comes with a sleeve that is supposed to be installed on the pump before you clamp it to the assembly. The sleeve helps to quiet down the walbro whine.
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12-03-2006, 06:30 PM
#13
There is a picture of the funnel a few posts down in this thread:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2968
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2968
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12-03-2006, 07:09 PM
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get the install kit with the pump. it comes with everything you need (sock, hose, clamps, sleeve, etc) except a clamp to secure the pump to the assembly.
The screw that secures the pump bottom bracket to the assembly is a pita to remove without an impact driver.
The screw that secures the pump bottom bracket to the assembly is a pita to remove without an impact driver.
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