What engine oil do YOU use?
06-15-2009, 09:24 AM
#142
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Just to report back on going from Rotella dino to synth, I don't like the synthetic nearly as much. Never seems to run as smooth, engine feels more "loose" if one can tell from feel and sound. I also have a lot more HLA noise on start up than I did with the non synthetic Rotella. I will be changing back soon. I kind of knew I wouldn't like it because it was so thin, and I was right. Should have stuck with my gut. Plus non synth is like $12/4 quart jug vs. $22/4 quart jug. Not that
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06-15-2009, 09:28 AM
#143
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After reading through some of this thread, here's my take on the subject, IMHO.
Diesel oil offers more antiwear/antifriction additives, and more detergents, but if your engine is letting oil past the rings and/or valve seals, the extra additives may clog the catalytic converter. I used to run a quart of Amsoil diesel oil with the Amsoil 10w30 in the crankcase of my super/now turbo'd Miata, that has seen open track weekends.
Rotella is supposed to be pretty good oil, esp for the price, but I've never used it. Redline IMO is good oil. Royal Purple is a short term oil, shears too quickly. M1 used to be Group 4 base stock, now it's Group 3 from what I've read.
I run Amsoil 10w30 or 10w40 in my engine, GL5 gear oil in my 6 speed, and 75w90 Severe Gear in my differential. The car was supercharged when it was running open track weekends down here in sweltering South Florida. The heat down here is definitely going to test a lubricant. I found the Amoil engine oil to function better in my engine than the M1 I used to run. Purely layperson, subjective analysis, as I didn't do a UOA, but the Amsoil had the engine running quieter, startup was quieter, the color stayed clean longer, it didn't burn off as quickly, and the temp gauge reflected a cooler operating temp, compared to the M1 10w30 I used to run. I have forged pistons in the engine, and the cold startup difference was night and day between the Amsoil and M1, even after several thousand miles on the Amsoil.
As for oil filters, Wix/Purolator, M1, Amsoil are what I'd run. Wix/Purolator are great bang for the buck, M1 is good, but costs me the same as Amsoil, and the Amsoil oil filter is still better.
I became an Amsoil dealer because I was buying enough product I figured I might as well sign up for the best deals on the stuff.
Diesel oil offers more antiwear/antifriction additives, and more detergents, but if your engine is letting oil past the rings and/or valve seals, the extra additives may clog the catalytic converter. I used to run a quart of Amsoil diesel oil with the Amsoil 10w30 in the crankcase of my super/now turbo'd Miata, that has seen open track weekends.
Rotella is supposed to be pretty good oil, esp for the price, but I've never used it. Redline IMO is good oil. Royal Purple is a short term oil, shears too quickly. M1 used to be Group 4 base stock, now it's Group 3 from what I've read.
I run Amsoil 10w30 or 10w40 in my engine, GL5 gear oil in my 6 speed, and 75w90 Severe Gear in my differential. The car was supercharged when it was running open track weekends down here in sweltering South Florida. The heat down here is definitely going to test a lubricant. I found the Amoil engine oil to function better in my engine than the M1 I used to run. Purely layperson, subjective analysis, as I didn't do a UOA, but the Amsoil had the engine running quieter, startup was quieter, the color stayed clean longer, it didn't burn off as quickly, and the temp gauge reflected a cooler operating temp, compared to the M1 10w30 I used to run. I have forged pistons in the engine, and the cold startup difference was night and day between the Amsoil and M1, even after several thousand miles on the Amsoil.
As for oil filters, Wix/Purolator, M1, Amsoil are what I'd run. Wix/Purolator are great bang for the buck, M1 is good, but costs me the same as Amsoil, and the Amsoil oil filter is still better.
I became an Amsoil dealer because I was buying enough product I figured I might as well sign up for the best deals on the stuff.
Redline recently pulled a ton of the good additives out of their 10w30 and not the other weights/viscosities most likely for the EPA. Mobile 1 did the same a few years ago.
I've learned to ignore group designation in base stocks. Look at the performance #'s from used UOA's compared between particularly HDEO GIII synthetics and dino oil compared to expensive GIV's and you'll agree.
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06-15-2009, 09:35 AM
#144
Just to report back on going from Rotella dino to synth, I don't like the synthetic nearly as much. Never seems to run as smooth, engine feels more "loose" if one can tell from feel and sound. I also have a lot more HLA noise on start up than I did with the non synthetic Rotella. I will be changing back soon. I kind of knew I wouldn't like it because it was so thin, and I was right. Should have stuck with my gut. Plus non synth is like $12/4 quart jug vs. $22/4 quart jug. Not that
Hmm, I just put in the synthetic along with an Integra Oil filter. I like the results so far. Engine seems quiter and oil pressure is higher. And the oil seems to be staying cleaner looking longer then the mobil 1 ever did.
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06-15-2009, 03:16 PM
#147
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Either way, the 15-40 non synth ran smoother and quieter than the 5-40 synthetic for half the cost. At the oil change (~3500 miles) the oil still looked pretty damn good compared to other oils I've used. I will see how this oil looks after the same mileage and then decide. As of right now though, I like the non synthetic more. It's also not "molasses thick" as you would think. Compared to a lot of other oils, even at 15-40 it sloshes around like it would be much thinner. Some of the straight 50 I used to run was molasses thick, or even 20-50, but this stuff isn't even in the ballpark.
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06-15-2009, 03:31 PM
#148
If it were to thick wouldn't oil pressure go down because it couldn't pump it?
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06-15-2009, 05:52 PM
#149
Just tried Rotella Syn 5w-40 for the first time 2 weeks ago and could'nt be happier!! Rotella / Wix FTW! Definitly a step up from the Mobile1 5w-30......no lifter tick/higher cold and warm oil psi/etc
0606092223.jpg?t=1245102512
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PS- SoflaRick hooked me up with the Amsoil GL5 / 75w-90 Sever Gear / and Slip Lock....Good ****, I'm hooked!
0606092223.jpg?t=1245102512
0607091320.jpg?t=1245102637
PS- SoflaRick hooked me up with the Amsoil GL5 / 75w-90 Sever Gear / and Slip Lock....Good ****, I'm hooked!
Last edited by Cspence; 06-15-2009 at 06:40 PM.
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06-24-2009, 05:00 AM
#151
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Just to report back on going from Rotella dino to synth, I don't like the synthetic nearly as much. Never seems to run as smooth, engine feels more "loose" if one can tell from feel and sound. I also have a lot more HLA noise on start up than I did with the non synthetic Rotella. I will be changing back soon. I kind of knew I wouldn't like it because it was so thin, and I was right. Should have stuck with my gut. Plus non synth is like $12/4 quart jug vs. $22/4 quart jug. Not that
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06-24-2009, 05:01 AM
#152
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Just tried Rotella Syn 5w-40 for the first time 2 weeks ago and could'nt be happier!! Rotella / Wix FTW! Definitly a step up from the Mobile1 5w-30......no lifter tick/higher cold and warm oil psi/etc
PS- SoflaRick hooked me up with the Amsoil GL5 / 75w-90 Sever Gear / and Slip Lock....Good ****, I'm hooked!
PS- SoflaRick hooked me up with the Amsoil GL5 / 75w-90 Sever Gear / and Slip Lock....Good ****, I'm hooked!
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06-24-2009, 06:20 AM
#155
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I'm still not as pleased with the synthetic though. With the non synthetic, I had no HLA noise ever, maybe 1/2 second on cold start, but after that, nothing. I have new HLA's too, so I shouldn't be having noise issues on a fresh rebuild and new oil. If I go back to the non synthetic and it goes away I will be sure.
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06-24-2009, 06:27 AM
#156
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I'm still not as pleased with the synthetic though. With the non synthetic, I had no HLA noise ever, maybe 1/2 second on cold start, but after that, nothing. I have new HLA's too, so I shouldn't be having noise issues on a fresh rebuild and new oil. If I go back to the non synthetic and it goes away I will be sure.
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06-24-2009, 07:07 AM
#157
Wouldn't this only be the case for the first few minutes after starting? As the oil gets extra heat put in from the oil pump working harder it should start thinning the oil sooner and help with oil warm-up to a certain degree?
If the oil indeed were to thick, shouldn't pressure go up instead? Just like the first start with cold oil, the pressure is way higher than after driving half an hour when the oil is warmed up and it's noticably thinner.
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06-24-2009, 09:26 AM
#158
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Wouldn't this only be the case for the first few minutes after starting? As the oil gets extra heat put in from the oil pump working harder it should start thinning the oil sooner and help with oil warm-up to a certain degree?
If the oil indeed were to thick, shouldn't pressure go up instead? Just like the first start with cold oil, the pressure is way higher than after driving half an hour when the oil is warmed up and it's noticably thinner.
If the oil indeed were to thick, shouldn't pressure go up instead? Just like the first start with cold oil, the pressure is way higher than after driving half an hour when the oil is warmed up and it's noticably thinner.
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06-24-2009, 04:46 PM
#160
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Of what do you speak? If you mean breaking in with dino oil, then yes. Ran dino the first 4-5k miles. I was just so amazed with the dino Rotella. Even after 3500 miles on it, it was still oil like, not watery and black like some other oils I have used. Looked like a lot of oils at only 500-1000 miles. I will see how this synthetic looks when the time comes, which I hope hurries up, I don't like it.
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