UrbanSoot

iTrader: (24)

So, I've installed an eBay aluminum radiator with slim fans and a new thermostat in my '00 and now it's taking forever to get to an operating temperature.

It is not a consistent behavior either. Sometimes it takes about 5-10 minutes to get to operating temperature and sometimes it can be 30+ minutes. It's worse when driving at freeway speeds.

Anyone has any clues? Car is stock.

ianferrell

What thermostat did you use?

mcfandango

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like the new thermostat is suck open to me. Does the upper radiator hose feel warm before the car gets up to temp?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

You want a 180 degree thermostat. I know the parts stores tend to either give out 160 or 195 degree ones whenever I have asked for a new one. I have to specify wanting a 180 degree one.

UrbanSoot

iTrader: (24)

That's what I was thinking...

I've used an AutoZone thermostat. I have a spare 180* one laying around so I'll try using that one instead.

Thanks guys!

pdexta

iTrader: (17)

^ Agree with the above.

It has to be thermostat related. When the motor is cool the radiator shouldn't be seeing any significant flow and it should warm up in a few minutes. My stock gauge shows normal temp by the time it hits 150 degrees so if that's where you're getting the reading from it's way cold.

Stock NB thermostat is 195, NA is 180 which is preferable IMO. I'd buy a new 180 degree thermostat and more than likely that's going to fix the problem.

Miater

Also, make sure you install the thermostat with the jiggle valve up and burp the system well.

Or add a turbo system and that will help get it warmed up.

UrbanSoot

iTrader: (24)

It's actually going to happen if I turn this into a race car later down the road. For now this is a fun daily driver.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Dibs on turbo system.

flounder

Sounds like you've got an air pocket.

curly

iTrader: (25)

ROFL!

You didn't buy a Stant, did you?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

UrbanSoot

iTrader: (24)

I bought whatever thermostat AutoZone had. My spare 180* one is Motorad 323-180.

t2couger

iTrader: (1)

im not sure why but i had to watch this twice.

Bond

iTrader: (6)

It's because JP is the biggest interweb beauty I know.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I love the OEM dual stat. and will always use it.

Slava, where is your heater core outlet routed, back to the water pump inlet?

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Haven't been reading Hustler's thread, eh?

Race Car = NA
Street Car = Turbo

Nothing puts the fun into DD like a turbo (at least until you blow your HG).

Agree with Brain. The Mazda OEM stats are well worth it.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I'm curious why the na 1.8's use the 180* (according to you guys) and the nb uses the 195*?

Does anyone know?

I heard someone say "emissions" before, but why would the nb require to run hotter to achieve the same emissions numbers as the na? Or is the nb supposed to run "cleaner"?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

whats the temperature rating? when the stat first opens?

the 1.6L NA is actually:

Initial-opening temperature
Main: 86.5-89.5°C (188-193°F)
Sub: 83.5-86.5°C (182-188°F)
Full-open temperature: 100°C (212°F)


I haven't seen what the 1.8L NAs stat looks like, im sure its similar. the part numbers are different, but it looks to be a dual-stat as well.

but yeah, the NB runs hotter.

G3ML1NGZ

higher exhaust temps, to get the catalytic converter hotter? I'm just guessing here.