Why am I smoking/ consuming oil?
#21
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I haven't done a wet test, but 100 psi of compressed air is going to blow any oil that could be sealing the rings down into the crankcase. The compression numbers I suspect are high because of oil in the combustion chamber. It is definately getting in there or the damned thing wouldn't be smoking. I think at this point I'm going to replace valve seals with viton seals instead of the OEM ones that are in there and see what happens.
#25
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Just to post an update on this for na6c-guy or anyone else experiencing the same problem.
I did pull the motor back out of the car and pulled the pistons to find that the oil rings had a lot of carbon built up and were stuck. I honed the block, cleaned all the piston grooves well and re-ringed it using new chrome rings and new rod bearings. Put everything back together and the oil consumption and smoke did stop. I now have almost 3K miles since doing the above with zero oil loss! The car is no stronger than before, it just doesn't smoke or burn oil. Stuck oil rings FTL.
I did pull the motor back out of the car and pulled the pistons to find that the oil rings had a lot of carbon built up and were stuck. I honed the block, cleaned all the piston grooves well and re-ringed it using new chrome rings and new rod bearings. Put everything back together and the oil consumption and smoke did stop. I now have almost 3K miles since doing the above with zero oil loss! The car is no stronger than before, it just doesn't smoke or burn oil. Stuck oil rings FTL.
#27
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Just to post an update on this for na6c-guy or anyone else experiencing the same problem.
I did pull the motor back out of the car and pulled the pistons to find that the oil rings had a lot of carbon built up and were stuck. I honed the block, cleaned all the piston grooves well and re-ringed it using new chrome rings and new rod bearings. Put everything back together and the oil consumption and smoke did stop. I now have almost 3K miles since doing the above with zero oil loss! The car is no stronger than before, it just doesn't smoke or burn oil. Stuck oil rings FTL.
I did pull the motor back out of the car and pulled the pistons to find that the oil rings had a lot of carbon built up and were stuck. I honed the block, cleaned all the piston grooves well and re-ringed it using new chrome rings and new rod bearings. Put everything back together and the oil consumption and smoke did stop. I now have almost 3K miles since doing the above with zero oil loss! The car is no stronger than before, it just doesn't smoke or burn oil. Stuck oil rings FTL.
Anyways, thanks for the thread. I'm facing similar issues.
#28
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Just to post an update on this for na6c-guy or anyone else experiencing the same problem.
I did pull the motor back out of the car and pulled the pistons to find that the oil rings had a lot of carbon built up and were stuck. I honed the block, cleaned all the piston grooves well and re-ringed it using new chrome rings and new rod bearings. Put everything back together and the oil consumption and smoke did stop. I now have almost 3K miles since doing the above with zero oil loss! The car is no stronger than before, it just doesn't smoke or burn oil. Stuck oil rings FTL.
I did pull the motor back out of the car and pulled the pistons to find that the oil rings had a lot of carbon built up and were stuck. I honed the block, cleaned all the piston grooves well and re-ringed it using new chrome rings and new rod bearings. Put everything back together and the oil consumption and smoke did stop. I now have almost 3K miles since doing the above with zero oil loss! The car is no stronger than before, it just doesn't smoke or burn oil. Stuck oil rings FTL.
#30
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All 4 were stuck. Smoke wasn't that bad, but oil consumption was a mother!
I don't know of a way of unsticking them without removal or else I would have went that route.
Rafa, I didn't upgrade rods because I don't think they are necessary at the levels I'm looking for and I'm doing this on the cheap. The stock bottom end will support 300 hp all day long. The cost of rings, bearings and a head gasket was $200 and 1.5 days of labor from me. Rods would have tripled the cost.
I don't know of a way of unsticking them without removal or else I would have went that route.
Rafa, I didn't upgrade rods because I don't think they are necessary at the levels I'm looking for and I'm doing this on the cheap. The stock bottom end will support 300 hp all day long. The cost of rings, bearings and a head gasket was $200 and 1.5 days of labor from me. Rods would have tripled the cost.
#31
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Rafa, I didn't upgrade rods because I don't think they are necessary at the levels I'm looking for and I'm doing this on the cheap. The stock bottom end will support 300 hp all day long. The cost of rings, bearings and a head gasket was $200 and 1.5 days of labor from me. Rods would have tripled the cost.
#32
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I used Federal Mogul Sealed Power chrome rings and Federal Mogul Sealed Power rod bearings from O'Reilly Auto Parts. I think it was around $100 for the rings and $35 for the bearings. That is cheaper than OEM parts with the Mazda Motorsports discount.
#33
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I'll do what you've done. The only difference will be that I'll also include new, stronger rods.
#34
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Im sure Federal stuff is as good as any other, but for some reason Ive never liked them. Though dont they make alot of OEM stuff? I went with Mahle/Clevite. Either way, new rings and bearings hopefully means 100k+ miles of good fun.
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