Wiring up an LC1
12-08-2007, 01:56 PM
#41
Well, it didn't.
Then again, it turned out the one I'd soldered in was ALSO bad, which I found out after I crimped it. :-P Anyway, my point is you might want to just butt-splice it in.
As for the lighting for the gauges, I had a great idea to do without a add a circuit. The day time running light plug under our dashes has a ground and a 12v switched, so I will be using that for the gauges. I need to find out if it has a 12v that power up with the head lights so I can have my DB gauge dim when they are on.
Other comments:
You need a pretty healthy resistor for losing the rear O2. Depending on your car, the OBD-II circuit is pretty smart about checking if it's there. If you can emultate the signal with the WBO2 you should be cool, otherwise you'll have to get a O2 simulator, the OEM ECU looks for a time varying signal, that's slightly leaner, with some lag time from the front O2 on the rear NB, o it complains. I have some pics of my install of the O2Sim and I didn't want to drag around an old sensor just for the resistor so I put on a $2 power resistor. I think it does need to be pretty healthy, I also seem to remember the one I got was about 50-100% over rated - but it was there and cheap.
http://abefm.smugmug.com/gallery/1158750#54085328
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12-08-2007, 02:37 PM
#42
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Abe- what value resistor did you use?
I just took a current profile of Ye Olde' 4-wire O2 sensor heater in my car:
As you can see, as the sensor comes up to temperature, it settles into a steady-state current draw of about 1100ma. The system voltage for this test was 12.3 volts, so that's 13.5 watts, or an effective resistance of about 11.2 ohms.
I'd think that a 15 ohm power resistor would probably be sufficient to satisfy the ECU that the O2 sensor heater appears to be functioning. That would be about 12 watts of power at normal operating voltage (13.5 volts) which is enough heat that you probably wouldn't want the resistor touching your skin or resting against an insulated wire, but it'd work.
I just took a current profile of Ye Olde' 4-wire O2 sensor heater in my car:
As you can see, as the sensor comes up to temperature, it settles into a steady-state current draw of about 1100ma. The system voltage for this test was 12.3 volts, so that's 13.5 watts, or an effective resistance of about 11.2 ohms.
I'd think that a 15 ohm power resistor would probably be sufficient to satisfy the ECU that the O2 sensor heater appears to be functioning. That would be about 12 watts of power at normal operating voltage (13.5 volts) which is enough heat that you probably wouldn't want the resistor touching your skin or resting against an insulated wire, but it'd work.
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12-08-2007, 05:01 PM
#44
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OK, so in the spirit of answering the OP's question, to remove the front NB sensor and replace it with the simulated NB output of a wideband:
1- Buy a ~50 ohm, 10 watt power resistor, such as Digikey 47W-10-ND.
2- (edit)
I got step 2 backwards the first time. The ECU provides to the ground for the heaters, not the supply. So it goes +12 -> resistor -> ECU's heater terminal.
1- Buy a ~50 ohm, 10 watt power resistor, such as Digikey 47W-10-ND.
2- (edit)
I got step 2 backwards the first time. The ECU provides to the ground for the heaters, not the supply. So it goes +12 -> resistor -> ECU's heater terminal.
Last edited by Joe Perez; 12-08-2007 at 07:29 PM.
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12-08-2007, 05:26 PM
#45
yeah - what he said. :-) I left mine up by the steering collum, away from any wires or any weather.
N00b question here: Where is a good place to PUT the WBO2? I have two bungs readily available to me, one just after the elbow from the turbo, and one at the end of my DP. Since I'm getting a nice shiney new one (thanks WOT - though I wonder what it all comes with), I want to put it somewhere not-dumb so I can not-burn-it-out or get slow, meaningless responses.
N00b question here: Where is a good place to PUT the WBO2? I have two bungs readily available to me, one just after the elbow from the turbo, and one at the end of my DP. Since I'm getting a nice shiney new one (thanks WOT - though I wonder what it all comes with), I want to put it somewhere not-dumb so I can not-burn-it-out or get slow, meaningless responses.
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12-08-2007, 08:20 PM
#48
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Sometimes it can be basically impossible to solder wires on an O2. I spent a long time trying to do it only to have everyone tell me it couldn't be done. I was DAMNED sure I'd managed it anyway, since it looked and felt ok but people said it wouldn't work.
Well, it didn't.
Then again, it turned out the one I'd soldered in was ALSO bad, which I found out after I crimped it. :-P Anyway, my point is you might want to just butt-splice it in.
You need a pretty healthy resistor for losing the rear O2. Depending on your car, the OBD-II circuit is pretty smart about checking if it's there. If you can emultate the signal with the WBO2 you should be cool, otherwise you'll have to get a O2 simulator, the OEM ECU looks for a time varying signal, that's slightly leaner, with some lag time from the front O2 on the rear NB, o it complains. I have some pics of my install of the O2Sim and I didn't want to drag around an old sensor just for the resistor so I put on a $2 power resistor. I think it does need to be pretty healthy, I also seem to remember the one I got was about 50-100% over rated - but it was there and cheap.
Thanks for the great responses guys, you really did a big favor for me with this issue. You're going to like my next thread even more, I promise.
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12-08-2007, 09:01 PM
#49
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12-09-2007, 10:20 AM
#52
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The "official" heatsink / extender thingy: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cat=250&page=2
What Ben is describing:
What Ben is describing:
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12-09-2007, 01:45 PM
#55
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Actually, innovate describes the DIY heatsink on page 8 of the LC-1 manual:
The maximum temperature of the sensor at the bung (the sensor hexagon) should not exceed 500°C or 900°F. If these temperatures are exceeded your application you should either install a copper heat sink (instructions below) or the Innovate Motorsports Heat-Sink Bung extender (HBX-1). The bung extender is recommended for situations where airflow is restricted or the encountered heat is higher than a heat sink can handle.
How to fabricate a copper heat sink:
Use a 4” x 4” (10cm x 10 cm) sheet of copper sheet metal 14ga (1.5mm) thick. Drill a hole in the center with the same diameter of the oxygen sensor threads ~3/4” (19mm).
Fold the sides up 45 deg and mount it between the sensor and the bung like you would a big washer. Orient it such that the sides are exposed to good airflow.
And they supply this illustration (which I should have copied rather than re-drawing it from scratch):How to fabricate a copper heat sink:
Use a 4” x 4” (10cm x 10 cm) sheet of copper sheet metal 14ga (1.5mm) thick. Drill a hole in the center with the same diameter of the oxygen sensor threads ~3/4” (19mm).
Fold the sides up 45 deg and mount it between the sensor and the bung like you would a big washer. Orient it such that the sides are exposed to good airflow.
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