Ben

iTrader: (33)

What a piece of crap.

I'm lookin for a decent tune with my newly installed BEGi FMU. I need to drive the car out of state on Saturday to pick up her new hard top. Can't get any dyno time for 2 plus weeks (first slot was monday the 20th). So I'm tuning off the wb gauge and datalogs. While cruising, I get a/f cycling around 14.7:1 in vac, then suddenly the gauge will show and hold to 10:1 for a while (while cruising at any rpm). It will stay fixed at ~10 (and not even change by .1) for a few minutes, then just as suddenly, will start cycling around 14.7 again.

I wondered if maybe too much fuel pressure was holding an injector open, so I removed the mbc. No change in what the LC-1 showed me, just a little more lag and a little less boost. I also opened up the needle valve a couple of turns (it was already close to full open), and same thing.

I called LC-1 and Fillipe answered again. That was the guy who told me that I shouldn't simulate nb to the ecu. I didn't even bother.

Is anyone available (today or tomorrow) to look over my shoulder and show me if/where I f'd something up? I'll buy the beer/pizza/steak/whatever.

kyle242gt

Where do you have the WB located? When the sensor is warming up, you might get a bogus fixed signal.... my Tech Edge did, anyway.

With the number of people using the LC1, you should take faith in knowing that it'll work out right eventually.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Remove the WBo2 and do a free air calibration. When mine mysteriously did the calibration with the car running all sorts of mayhem insued! Mine would peg full lean and just sit there! Is 10:1 the limit it will show? So in your case it's showing off the scale at 10:1. My LC-1 recalibrated after using Logworks, not sure if connecting the mini-stereo jack did it or the software caused it to happen. Once I did the recalibration it's been working fine.

My second recommendation is to stop simulating NB and install the four wire NB back into the DP.

I'd be a little concerned that if the WB is sending the ECU a RICH signal that you are pulling fuel and possibly running lean.

Jay

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I haven't callibrated it since I put it in the midpipe last week. I don't think that's the problem, but it's easy enough to try.

Here's more: I started the car and let it idle. The gauge showed sensor warmup as normal. Then it bounced between 15.2-15.8 for a minute. I gave a quick blip on the accelerator, and let off. Gauge showed 14.4-15.1, bouncing between the two, and did so for a few minutes. And all the sudden the gague diplayed 12.1 and held without changing for about 2 minutes. And then all the sudden it started going between 14.4-15.1 again. I really think it's a hardware issue with the LC-1.

<Edit> Spoke with Felipe @ Innovate. He is sending me an RMA so he can investigate the unit for himself. I am surprised how helpful he was today.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

That sounds way too errratic to be a calibration issue.

Think it shows richer than 10 to 1 AFR.

A free air calibration tip is to wave the sensor around in the air before calibrating, as the exhaust gas can be "sticky."

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

Leaf blower stuck up the exhaust pipe?

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I bent up a 6"x6" piece of aluminum sheet into a heat sink for the wb sensor, wondering if it was just overheating. Also installed the original 1 wire nb into the greddy dp. Removed the lc-1 analog out from the ecu and probed it with my dmm. Drove 20 miles without any drivability issues or cel. DMM showed that the lc-1 analog out would only work sometimes. Problem found: bad lc-1.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

overheating should show error code.

That sucks on the bad lc1.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

make sure there are no variances in voltages, is the callbration wire grounded? if so try disconnecting it. if the voltage of the black calibration wire see a a ground voltage different form the rest of the system it will throw it in calibration mode, and that should display 10:1 on the gauge.