TonyV

iTrader: (17)

I agree had a blast meeting eveyone and shooting the $hit...
Once I'm running I def wanna try and see if we can all get together every so often and do something...! And thanks again for your help!

Eli's buddy called me and he lives like 5min away..He built and is running MS on his car. We're trying to see if him & Scott can handle it over the phone...Also gonna send a text to Sebastian to see if he can get it on it over the phone or in person as well...The only other option would be to send back to Scott and have him go over everything then send back...

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Not sure yet, I will let you guys know.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

TonyV

iTrader: (17)

Looks like we MIGHT have some good news tonight...
Emailed Scott the pics, and he noticed some resistor was missing and could very well be the cause fo the problem...
Now gonna see if/when one of the tech guys can come do da fix for me..
Will keep everyone posted

94medition

Ah, that'd make sense. Awesome to see progress being made.

Since it looks like Scott is viewing the thread... out of curiousity...

Scott, did you test the MS with a stim before sending it out?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yeah, I'm fairly certain sure I flashed it and it's loaded with the msq I emailed him. Unless for some reason it failed and I overlooked it. I typically test all the functions with the stim in the least before sending out. When i have my car around, i typically start it up.

The problem I see is basically r32 and r31 are missing, as i mistakingly left them out instead of leaving c31 and c32 out.

this is the PWM circuit for low ohm injectors, but i believe it's leaving the circuit incomplete and failing to power the MS. An easy test will be to jump r27 and r28 on the heatsink. This will complete the circuit and bypass the PWM circuit. then you can test it with the stim.

If that solves the problem, at that point Tony can decide to leave it as is, or install the two missing resistors. I wouldn't hurt to leave it jumped, you just loose the ability to ever run low ohm injectors.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Hey Scott, any way you could post a pic of what your talking about for those of us who have no idea what you just said?
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

TonyV

iTrader: (17)

This is perfect (aka dummyproof?)
Also Scott just called me (thanks Scott) and explained it to me really well. Still not confident on MY soldering ability (none), but I'm thinking practicing on a couple things before doing it should get me going.. Its literally 4 stupid drops of solder and I dont even need the resistors unless I switch injectors...so gonna use that leftover 12g wire we had.
I already got the insulator last night, for the EBC and he also explained this to me...
He's also gonna be on standby for tech support for me...

I'm hoping to be able to post a video of startup, everyone cross your fingers and hold your breath that I dont do something moronic.

I got the rad drain plug, filter/3"coupler, hose clamps which is all we were really missing on Sunday.
Stay tunnnned!

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

<----Patiently waiting.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

TonyV

iTrader: (17)

Damn guys, I was sooo happy that U had a successful (not pretty) soldering session...

BUT, still no lights on the MS..
Even tried starting just once or twice to see but nothing...
Also gave it a jump start to see if it was the battery...nothing
And Scott is done for the night...

Any suggests??
I now have voltmeter, and have become fairly able to make my way around the ms...and can do some kind of soldering

Anyone?

94medition

Try the 9V battery test for the MS? Hook up pin 28 to positive and pin 19 to the negative on the battery. See if the lights on the MS come on.

Since you have a voltmeter, could always check for power at the stock ECU.

TonyV

iTrader: (17)

could i use the voltmeter prongs(without the meter) to do this?

TonyV

iTrader: (17)

Used the prongs and an extra set of hands...
Stayed steady on 19 negative and 28positive...connected to battery, stillllllll nothing...

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Dam dude, I wish I could offer help, but I know nothing. Did Eli's friend come thru?
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

TonyV

iTrader: (17)

I know man, thanks tho...
Eli's friend has a MSPNP, so he didnt build his...He was gonna come by anyway but I guess somethign came up. Like I saod thos he's PNP and therefore didnt build it or anything...

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Why dont you just take Sebastian up on his offer? Use his to get your car running, send yours back to Scott so he can get it fixed.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

94medition

Man, if those lights aren't coming on with 19- and 28+... I'd US Postal Service overnight that box up to Scott and ask he overnights it back. That way you're boosting this weekend.

Unless Scott wired his differently, but 19- and 28+ is the standard.

From what I saw when Sebastian popped his case off, their boards are configured differently. Sebastian hooked his up directly to the sensors needed, whereas it looks like (if I remember right) Scott wired his board to pull the IAT through the MAF signal or a couple other differences like that with his PNP setup.

TonyV

iTrader: (17)

Thats exactly what I'm doing...
I really wanted to find a way to get it done here, but at this point I'm just gonna send it back to him. He already agreed to overnight it back, and said even if he couldnt get mine to work for some reason, he'd send me one that DOES work, and setup for my configuration...

We're workign out the details for the harness cuz its still plugged into the car, I haven't disconnected it because I was afraid of breakign the plastic connectors.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yeah, if i cant get it to run. ill send him mine instead, which does work.

94medition

Good stuff.

Can totally understand your concern with disconnecting the plastic connectors, but Sebastian and I were able to get it out a couple of times... don't really worry about breaking the plastic connectors on the harness (Scott's), just keep a steady hand and accurately push down on the tab to release the connectors. Heck, I think it may be require a few to go smoothly.