18psi

iTrader: (76)

all these fancy new euro cars are "5 year cars" to me.
those first 5 years while it's still new and under warranty it's awesome, and then.......

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

true true. Ive seen a few guys do 5MT swaps on them, because rare. That 5EAT sucks something aweful, a friend has an 05 wagon with that shitty trans, not impressed.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

This this this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Yup. You always lease your VAG products. And who buys a mercedes that doesnt have an accountant that pays their bills for them?

Focus RS looks like an interesting replacement for a subaru. It does subaru things without being a subaru, which means the wheel bearings probably wont suck, the shocks wont be a complete disaster, and it wont sound silly. But the flat brim problem will be in full effect.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

People don't buy mercedes, they lease them and trash them and then I buy them for half the invoice 2 years later.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I've never drove the C350, but I have driven a 2014 C250 and a 2015 C300, and I own a 2014 C63. The C250 was impressive for a 4 cylinder, I thought it had a NA V6 in it until I popped the hood! AWD was very damn good, way better than my OBXT.

The C300 is extremely impressive. Has a ton of torque, and I think it had torque vectoring cause it felt crazy giving it power in turns.

The C63 is in the shop, thus why I keep driving the above cars! It's crazy but the C300 is just as fast as my C63 from idle to 3,000, no doubt. I loved the AWD system, my next MB will have their AWD.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Biggest differences is the OBXT sits higher, has softer suspension, and terrible brakes. The LGT has much better brakes.


My OBXT is a 5EAT. I'd prefer a manual. The 5EAT is ok if you're just riding a round, but it's not the best for fun, that's for sure. I have the solid bushings in the center diff on mine (blew up center diff in last 5EAT brake boost launching it) and I run different fluid to make it shift firmer under power. It helps, but it's still a sluggish slush box.

Despite the transmission the car is still fun, I can't see myself selling it... Mine is stage 2 with a new subaru engine, subaru turbo, and a used transmission with the upgraded center diff.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I'm bought my C63 new, and I'm planning to keep it forever. It's got a NA V8, no turbos, regular shocks no airbags or hydraulics. It does have electric seats and power windows/locks and a fancy infotainment system. Still I'm optimistic that EVERYTHING won't die in it electrically. I bought the extended warranty (7yr/125K) so hopefully whatever electronics are going to break do so before it's out of warranty!

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I'm buying a 2dr and want awd, so the only option is the 350.

Power feels great. Wot to 100mph feels so butter smooth it's retarded.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

Does anybody have any idea what might cause a very loud wheel-bearing-failing symptom on an outback? I just replaced all four wheel bearings, front brakes and rotors, poly bushings in front, and it was fine for a few hundred miles, but then it started to get really loud, like the wheel bearings were bad again. It got really bad really fast one day when it was pretty hot out, so I assumed it was my snow tires. So I replaced those today, and the sound hasn't changed at all.

It really sounds like bad wheel bearings, but the sound doesn't change when turning, sounds like it's coming from all four corners, and all four wheel bearings have less than 1000 miles on them.

This is really frustrating because it means I just wasted $500 on new tires that didn't even fix the problem. Is it possible I botched the wheel bearing install and ruined all of them? Can I check that somehow?

rleete

iTrader: (21)

Did you do the torque, back it off, re-torque thing? They may have not seated. Pull a wheel and check. Ought to be pretty obvious.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

I didn't do that, I followed the service manual that just said "torque to xx ft-lbs"

What is the procedure for the torque, back it off, re-torque thing? Is it as simple as it sounds? Do I do it with the car on the ground, or do I need to lift the wheel and have somebody stand on the brakes?

rleete

iTrader: (21)

Off the ground, wheels off. Not sure how you could even do it otherwise.

Torque nut slightly past spec. No need to really crank on it, just extra tight. Then, loosen it. Tighten back down just to spec. That seats the bearing on the spindle so the inner race is in firm contact. Then, it's spinning on the bearings, not between race and spindle.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Its seems like a common problem with the 4x100 subarus. Factory wheel bearings last a long time and then you blow through like 4 replacements in like 1k miles and then gets in a 10k replacement cycle for the damn things until you get fed up with the POS and sell it.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, I'll give that a try this afternoon. Hopefully I didn't ruin the bearings, I really don't feel like replacing them all again. And I have to drive it 12 hours this weekend.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

It depends on use more than anything. Ironically I've replaced a few sti bearings and no wrx ones, despite working on some 140+k mile wrx's. A few months ago a buddy told me his were starting to get loud on a '14 wrx with only 4k miles. Then he reluctantly admitted to hopping a curb. lol

Not really sure what skidude's issue may be, not familiar with it, but if the freshly installed bearings weren't seated properly they might be toast, unfortunately.


Since we're talking about annoying things: I think somewhere inside my trunk/hatch there's a little screw or bolt or something loose or unfastened altogether. It sounds like it's at the bottom of the inside of the hatch, and every time I go over a bump it rattles inside. It's driving me bananas. Guess I'll pull the interior plastic on the hatch and start looking for it.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

True. But inner races should be hardened, so if the spindle isn't buggered up, he should be able to seat them and be okay.



Oh, how I hate rattles and squeeks. They drive me nuts.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

holding up so far?

that's really my biggest concern. I know a few people that own them and so far people report they have no issues.

I did test drive a certified pre-owned with only like 20K miles and the power to both seats and steering wheel didn't work (made it hard to test drive). I'm assuming someone did something stupid to it, but it had me worried. But this is why I'll be buying one with warranty still remaining.

I drove two hours to see one over the weekend. It's funny--I love my WRX seats and have no complaints about comfort level--but there's something about the ride of that MB, that I just didn't want to stop test driving it even after a long rediculous only 40mile, yet 2hr, drive down. Seats are comfortable and the car is a pleasure to drive. Very peppy

I still missed the WRX bolsters, they really hug you and keep you in place. The MB ones aren't as deep, and the 4dr model has pretty normal seats without any at all.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I havent driven the wrx more than just moving it out of the way of the trailer in over a month, because the rear view mirror fell off, and the drivers front brake caliper needs to be lubed. And the stock old man edition miata is more fun to drive to work.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Sounds like your WRX is a raging tub of crap.
I'll give you $3.50 for it.
You're welcome.