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Old 09-22-2016, 08:28 AM   #2261
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I am at my wit's end with my outback. It has been one problem after another for the last 4 months and this one has me a little stumped.

Was driving home about 3 weeks ago and the car stalled (2005 OBXT 5MT) pulling into traffic. Wouldn't start, made a lot of in-dash clicking noise and all the lights blinked on the dashboard. Acted like a bad relay or something, but when somebody jumped it, it started right up. Replaced the battery and it's been starting fine ever since. Until this morning. It stalled while sitting at a stoplight this morning on my way to work, and did the same clicking/blinking/nonstarting thing again. Stoplight was on a hill, so I bump started it and made i to work alright, but now it's dead in its parking spot.

So, either it wasn't just the battery before and somehow replacing the battery fixed it temporarily, or my new battery is junk alread. If the new battery is junk, it is either defective or something in the car is killing the battery. There were no lights on the dash prior to either of these events.

What should I check? I'm going to take a multimeter out at lunch and check the voltage on the battery, and check the connections on the battery. Is there a relay that could be going bad?
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Old 09-22-2016, 09:10 AM   #2262
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I am at my wit's end with my outback. It has been one problem after another for the last 4 months and this one has me a little stumped.

Was driving home about 3 weeks ago and the car stalled (2005 OBXT 5MT) pulling into traffic. Wouldn't start, made a lot of in-dash clicking noise and all the lights blinked on the dashboard. Acted like a bad relay or something, but when somebody jumped it, it started right up. Replaced the battery and it's been starting fine ever since. Until this morning. It stalled while sitting at a stoplight this morning on my way to work, and did the same clicking/blinking/nonstarting thing again. Stoplight was on a hill, so I bump started it and made i to work alright, but now it's dead in its parking spot.

So, either it wasn't just the battery before and somehow replacing the battery fixed it temporarily, or my new battery is junk alread. If the new battery is junk, it is either defective or something in the car is killing the battery. There were no lights on the dash prior to either of these events.

What should I check? I'm going to take a multimeter out at lunch and check the voltage on the battery, and check the connections on the battery. Is there a relay that could be going bad?
Did the airbag light come on before it died this most recent time? In my car that has been more sensitive to low voltage than the battery light. Though the failure mode for my alternator was to output less and less voltage as the days went by. Maybe there's some weird computer **** going on and disinfecting the battery will fix it.
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Old 09-22-2016, 09:42 AM   #2263
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Did the airbag light come on before it died this most recent time? In my car that has been more sensitive to low voltage than the battery light. Though the failure mode for my alternator was to output less and less voltage as the days went by. Maybe there's some weird computer **** going on and disinfecting the battery will fix it.
No, the airbag light hasn't come on since I replaced the clockspring (yesterday). There were no warning lights at all until it stalled at that stoplight. Then after I managed to bump start it, the check engine light came on, cruise light blinked, and the ABS light came on. Last time, the ABS light was on for the drive home, but no check engine light.

I'll read the codes when I get home, assuming I can find somebody to jump me after work.
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Old 09-22-2016, 09:54 AM   #2264
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buy my 05 obxt 5mt as a parts car.
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Old 09-22-2016, 10:01 AM   #2265
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buy my 05 obxt 5mt as a parts car.
I'll give you $350 and a 12 pack. And at the rate I'm going, maybe I'd drive yours and make mine the parts car.
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Old 09-22-2016, 10:16 AM   #2266
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exactly.

Mine will be for sale once wifey finds a 3 row crossover she likes.
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:12 PM   #2267
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Turns out the positive battery terminal connector is FUBAR. The nut was tightened, but it was still a little loose on the terminal. I got it seated better so it will get me home alright, and then I can take it off and clean it, adjust it, or decide it needs to be replaced.
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:14 PM   #2268
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Turns out the positive battery terminal connector is FUBAR. The nut was tightened, but it was still a little loose on the terminal.
You bet me to it. I was going to say, don't just check the terminals check the crimps where the cable meets the terminal too. Glad you found something

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Mine will be for sale once wifey finds a 3 row crossover she likes.
Timmeh! Sell me your rines holmes!
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:25 PM   #2269
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new terminals are 5-10 bux. if ever in doubt, replace
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:35 PM   #2270
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new terminals are 5-10 bux. if ever in doubt, replace
I've never replaced them before. Do I need any special tools to crimp new ones on? I was in the parking lot in my office clothes at lunch so once I realized what the problem was I didn't look too much further than that.
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:48 PM   #2271
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I've never replaced them before. Do I need any special tools to crimp new ones on? I was in the parking lot in my office clothes at lunch so once I realized what the problem was I didn't look too much further than that.
Most newer ones crimp on, but there are ones that use two bolts and a plate to clamp onto the wire end.
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Old 09-22-2016, 03:07 PM   #2272
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You can do the crimp on ones with a hammer and punch in a bind. The actual tool is basically the same thing, but in a jig.
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Old 09-22-2016, 03:12 PM   #2273
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You can do the crimp on ones with a hammer and punch in a bind. The actual tool is basically the same thing, but in a jig.
I just did one because I refused to use a clamp on one. I ended up doing each side individually with my 2 for long channel locks and then really giving her a go in a bench vise I have that isn't bolted down. I wonder if the parts store rented the crimper.
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Old 09-22-2016, 03:27 PM   #2274
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I have one of these from Harbor Freight which I use for crimping big-*** terminals:



Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool

--Ian
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Old 09-22-2016, 03:28 PM   #2275
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I have one of these from Harbor Freight which I use for crimping big-*** terminals:



Hydraulic Wire Crimping Tool

--Ian
Can I borrow that at laguna. I need new battery terminals.
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Old 09-22-2016, 03:39 PM   #2276
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Can I borrow that at laguna. I need new battery terminals.
I'll try to remember to throw it in the truck, sure.

--Ian
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Old 09-30-2016, 10:40 AM   #2277
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ditch the garbage oem 2port for a hallman pro rx
(assuming no boost leaks or bad wga)

16bit ecu is notorious for having archaic boost control that is almost never smooth when going past stg1

Fixed a couple of intake piping leaks and installed the mbc.

Car is running much better now. Thanks
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Old 09-30-2016, 02:04 PM   #2278
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:42 PM   #2279
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I keep having naughty thoughts of buying a 5.0 (or a terminator cobra which is my guilty pleasure) but I'd probably have to sell the STI.
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:01 PM   #2280
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Only one thing to do: 5.0 swap the STi
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