MartinezA92

iTrader: (4)

Do it. I bought an 04 WRX, sold it and ditched my Miata for a GR hatch WRX, then sold that for an 05 STI. I couldn't be happier with it. I feel like I was always meant to own a really loud and obnoxious STI.

AND FOR ***** SAKE STAY THE **** AWAY FROM NASIOC IT IS A ******* AIDSHOLE. I don't even own a Miata anymore and I frequent this forum more than any Subaru forum.

Edit: And another thing, be patient when you start looking for your STI. I knew exactly what I wanted, a 2005 WRB STI, and I searched for months before one just fell into my lap at my work. Somebody traded it in to our used car department the day I was about to go to Arizona to check out another one with higher mileage. Pretty low mileage and basically stole it for 21.5k

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

What's wrong with NASIOC? And I know exactly what I want. Totally overdone and feel free to give me **** but I want WRB with gold BBS wheels.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

nabisco is literally filled with hundreds of thousands of complete morons, with a couple dozen of smart and knowledgeable guys.
the ratio of people with brains to people without is about 1 to 10.

it's difficult to sift through when you're a n00b like you.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

At least NABISCO makes it easier to shift through since like 90% of the responses to real questions are, ask your tuner. Because dammit, you're not allowed to buy spark plugs or change your oil without the approval of your tuner.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I ask you, what is worse:

saying - ask your tuner
or
being you and going off on a theoretical tangent telling people to try something you've never even done before but can totally explain to them how to do it based on how it makes sense in your head, and then they try it having no knowledge whatsoever and no wrenching ability and utterly screw up their car. you know, armchair expert.

is that really better? would you rather just have n00bs attempt to tune their own car? would you have them attempt extensive modifications on their 30-40k car with a 4-8k engine?

gimme a break. I'd much rather tell people to consult their tuner/shop/proffessional than have idiots attempt to "fix" and "mod" their own cars


I say this because almost on a weekly basis I get a car that I have to undo all the retardation on because the owner was like "I TOTALLY GOT THIS BRO, LEAFY TOLD ME HOW TO DO IT ON THE INTERWEBZ".......when in reality their wrenching skills top out at filling up the car with fuel

you wouldn't believe some of the stuff I'm seeing these days. esp on older scoobs. literally leaves me speechless

*edit: oh and for the record, I pretty much don't read any section of nabisco aside from proven power bragging. Too much rage

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

your tuner can help you with all that rage.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

He tuned me to always run ALLTHERAGE

flat out...bro

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

on a scale of 1 to NABISCO how rage are you?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Sometimes I go to the technical section for a good laugh if I can overcome the rage.

-"guyths I have a catless downpipe and my exhaust smells, is that normal?"

-"guyths I installed a 3port and now my car overboosts, what should I do?"

-"guyths my enging is making a knocking sound, is that normal?"

-"my check engine light is flashing, should I keep driving?"

-"me and my frand t00ned my car and now it's making weird noises and smoke coming from engine bay, is this normal?"

-"installed a super JDM tyte atmo blow off valve cause I wanna sound fast and curious, why won't my car idle anymore?"

-"threw on a cold air intake from my integra, why is my car bucking?"

-"can I t00n my AVCS to *kick in* like vtak yo?"

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

i changed the battery in my wrx and now my horns are louder and it starts in the cold.

is that normal?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Only if your horns are stage 7

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

that honestly happened to me; my battery had issues.

i no longer hear weird solenoids clicking when cranking, the car doesn't struggle to crank and any power acc. seems to have more juice behind it.

i honk at n00bs all the time and after the replacement i was shocked with how many dBs it added :P I have two of those sickspeed horns, i think that's like stage 8.5.


i totally need to try your dbw map now too.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Subaru's have mafs right? That's why no atmo bovs?

For real though are "stages" actually a defined thing or is it just for extra rice?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Stage 1, is just a tune on all stock parts
Stage 2, is a tune with a down pipe
anything past that is just made up except for stage 2.52 which is putting a vf 52 on an 08 wrx.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

It seems to be a semi defined set of parameters mostly pushed by people like Cobb so that people don't blow their **** up trying to match a random set of mods to an Access Port tune. The "community" has adopted this as a "thing" and seems to give them bragging rights. Or something. I may be wrong, it just seems to be what I've noticed.

z31maniac

For the FrizBee guys it seems to be this simple:

Stage 1 = any mods while retaining stock header
Stage 2 = catless header + whatever (or none) other mods

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Ok so what should I do while swapping out the transmission?

Here's what I'm thinking so far.

Remove old trans now while waiting for new one.
Flush lines, install new filter.

Once new trans arrives:
Remove pan, clean everything inside with brake parts cleaner to rinse any debris from inside case, etc
clean pan/magnet, clean or change screen on transmission.
Pull tail housing off, remove center diff, take apart and swap factory needle bearings for solid bushings (makes stronger, less likely to nuke center diff again)
Reseal pan, install.
Reinstall back into vehicle

Am I missing anything? Do I need subaru ATF or will regular stuff be fine?

skidude

iTrader: (3)

Here's a question I can't find the answer to on the LGT forums:

When it is very cold out, like today (below zero), I have a very loud and obvious grinding/clicking noise on acceleration, coming from individual wheels. I cannot tell whether it is actually from the wheel, or something inboard of the wheel, but depending on just how cold it is, I can make it move from wheel to wheel by changing the loading while accelerating. It starts in the front under mild acceleration, but either moves to the rear or adds the rear under harder acceleration and colder temps. I can move it left or right by loading the left or right wheels respectively.

When it is in the teens (Fahrenheit), the noise will go away as the car warms up, but when it is in the single digits or below zero, whatever is making the noise seems to stay cold enough, so the noise never doesn't happen when I accelerate.

Thoughts on what is causing this? My latest theory is u-joints or something, but I don't know why that would be temperature dependent. I don't know why anything would be temperature dependent like this outside the engine/transmission. I do need a new wheel bearing or 4, but I also can't imagine the wheel bearing is causing this.

All my suspension bushings are the torn stock ones, could something be moving enough to cause this noise? I have replacement poly bushings for the front I just haven't gotten around to installing them yet.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

ugh, my clutch slips in 5th gear at 3K.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Pat - I have only done a few auto's but seems like a decent plan I guess. Have you considered a trans cooler? I hear that's the thing to get for them when making more than stock power.

Corey - the LCA fronts tend to rip and make noises, but who knows.

Scott - more clutch dumps from a stop light should fix that lulz