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Old 07-17-2015, 03:08 PM   #1221
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Ooh nice, I'll look around on their site

*edit: browsing summit, there's also this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vp...FQguaQodlIMJ1Q
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Old 07-17-2015, 05:27 PM   #1222
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Is Vibrant decent? I know it's only a catch can, but for some reason I always thought they were a "barely better than eGay option?"

Then again, even at only 33, I've been screwing with cars long enough and having to piece stuff together, I like plug-n-play options.

I prefer driving to tinkering.
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Old 07-17-2015, 05:32 PM   #1223
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Looks like it's a pretty solid can, but doesn't look like it's baffled. The main problem is how long it is (8.4") that's pretty hefty
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Old 07-17-2015, 05:44 PM   #1224
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Yeah, that's why I was attracted to the RacerX, compact, but means emptying out more.

When I had the one on the Coyote mustang though, it still maybe had 1/2 tablespoon after 4-5000 miles? Is it worse in the Subie engines?

Although boost does change a lot.
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Old 07-17-2015, 09:56 PM   #1225
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Use an AOS but instead of draining to the oil pan have it drain into the sealed container of your choice. The cheap ebay "catch cans" work for this.
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Old 07-17-2015, 09:58 PM   #1226
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what's the point of having 2 separate containers though?
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Old 07-17-2015, 10:02 PM   #1227
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The AOS doesnt have much storage. And any AOS that you can buy that has enough storage and also a non shitty design costs over $400. You can get a can with enough onboard storage with a shitty design for $30, or you can get an ASO that can hold like 2 hours of street driving worth of oil with a design thats decent for like $180. Or you can buy the two in one case for $400. Or combine the two for $210 and just have two cans.
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Old 07-17-2015, 10:04 PM   #1228
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the above posted dual catch cans should easily hold at least a month worth of street driving blow by. IMO. If I get more blow by than that, I'll be concerned.

I dunno. This is not high on priority list, so I'm taking my time and really thinking of the options. Kinda open to consider anything. Will likely do DIY or at least partial diy (using bought container/can and using own plumbing/routing/mounting solution)
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Old 07-17-2015, 10:11 PM   #1229
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this should hold a lot.
McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr

edit: max temp is a little low on the one i linked.

how about: http://www.mcmaster.com/#9994k76/=y3jy6w
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Old 07-18-2015, 01:30 AM   #1230
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Which dual one? Not the radium auto one, not even looking at the price I'd be surprised if that dual can system comes out less than 5 bills, because radium.
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Old 07-19-2015, 02:06 PM   #1231
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Hoping to get some help from the experts here. I got an 05 Forester that threw a rod. Its a 2.5sohc, manual.

I put in a used engine that was supposed have new headgaskets, t-belt and pulleys. Well it had blown gaskets and when I fired it up it sounded like it had rod knock. So I figured I was screwed and went and bought an engine from a salvage yard that had been tested. I put that in and the car ran like a stock subaru but after a few minutes of idling it made the same knocking sound. Whats weird is that the sound comes and goes. And when it beings it literally sounds like a bolt is being bounced around in the oil pain. It also runs poorly and it even stalled once when the noise began. If I'm driving the car it dosnt seem to make noise or if it does its just a quick tap. And if it starts and I begin driving the noise subsides.

The car pulls just like my other 05 with no indication of engine issues aside from the horrendous occasional knocking.

I have on the car a gates timing belt and all the pulleys should be essentially new, though I'm debating on buying another timing belt kit just to be sure. The car also has a brand new clutch kit.

I cleared the exhaust of the leftover engine chunks that the original engine put there and I checked to make sure the intake manifold didn't have any debris in it.

The engine is technically out of an 03 impreza so I reused the 05 intake manifold, crank and drivers side cam gears (which have a different tooth pattern then the 03). I did not reuse the pass. Side cam gear as I assumed they were the same and I had no problems timing the motor.

When I started the car this morning I ran fine and I couldn't get it to make the noise until it was fully warmed up. (Not sure if this actually makes a difference or I wasn't trying hard enough).

The only other issue the car has is it overheats if I drive it for a few miles. I assume this is probably because the engine sat awhile and the water pump is rust. I will flush the system and change the pump just to be sure.

Hoping I can get some advice from you helpful folks as to what might be causing my mystery knocking.

Thank you and sorry for the long winded post.
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Old 07-20-2015, 12:23 PM   #1232
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Sounds like you keep replacing crap with more crap without really verifying if it's crap.
Have you done comp/leakdown on any of these? Also if it's overheating it's probably got bad HG's. I've never seen wp's rusted to the point of seizing, but I don't have much high mile SOHC experience
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Old 07-20-2015, 12:38 PM   #1233
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Also have never heard of a pump not pumping from sitting. They will certainly leak though if they rust to much. The rusty shaft will tear up the seal when its asked to turn again.

That noise sounds bad the way you describe it. The thing about internal engine noises that arnt your standard lifter or rod knock is that they are hard to diagnose by listening, let alone by describing over the net.

Id check the oil for particles and cut open the oil filter.
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Old 07-20-2015, 07:44 PM   #1234
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The biggest issue is the two motors make an identical noise. The first engine definitely had blown headgaskets. Oil was milky, and was dripping coolant from the heads. Oil is clean of debris on "new" engine. I don't think the water pump is seized, I just think its full of garbage. The coolant literally turned rust orange and it's chunky. Because I have a new waterpump I will replace it just in case. The tensioner and all the pulleys I have seem fine after I checked them.

It literally sounds like rod knock, except it comes and goes as it pleases. Sometimes I have to give it hard throttle stabs to get it to make the noise, other times it will just start up on its own (at idle). The other unusual thing is it doesn't misfire. I don't get a flashing cel or any cel.

I will keep plugging away and try and come up with something.
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Old 07-21-2015, 01:05 PM   #1235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
Sounds like you keep replacing crap with more crap without really verifying if it's crap.
Pretty much this.
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Old 07-23-2015, 02:28 AM   #1236
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11 second daily driver
12 second driver
But I think I'll live


No launch at all


Baby launch, figuring out the clutch, and short shifted into 2nd.


I really need more practice, but there was some audi club event and everyone else got TWO runs.
TWO. The whole night. I felt like asking for a refund, it was almost pointless.
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:12 AM   #1237
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I didn't know this thread was a thing. But I have an 05 Legacy GT and it's pretty great. Basic up/down pipe, tune, koni yellows with h&r sport Springs and a whiteline rsb. It's a lovely dd, though I have wet dreams of putting an efr6758 in it..
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:48 AM   #1238
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Goddammit!
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:50 AM   #1239
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Goddammit!
Missed mine by one mile...

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Old 07-23-2015, 12:25 PM   #1240
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