thesnowboarder

iTrader: (15)

So after a hard struggle to figure out why my car was smoking. I finally got around to doing a leakdown test...

35% loss in number 1, which was the ring, we could hear air passing into the crankcase.

38% loss in #3, could hear it leaking through the tailpipe. So something in the head. Possibly valve guides or seals?

8% loss in 2 & 4

I picked up a long nose motor since mine is a shortnose for 50 bucks this past weekend. It most likely has bad rings in it. Sooo i figured what better way to do this. I can rebuild this long nose motor, get it all ready and just swap motors in a weekend to prevent downtime.

BUT what i cant decide upon is whats going inside the motor, all oem parts VS a mild build with some arp hardware and a bit of headwork.

Ideally ide like to track the car during the summer months and daily drive it to school/work ect. The idea of throwing an oil cooler/coolant re route along with all the bells and whistles inside the motor to keep it at a reliable 230-240whp 1.6l motor. Beat on it everyday and not really worrie about anything.

What should i do guys?

Sorry for the long rant/post.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

IMO don't buy the ARP hardware. Your head gasket is like a fuse. It blows is something dangerous happens to prevent further damage. That something dangerous would be knock. It's easier, faster, and cheaper to replace a blown headgasket than to replace a cracked piston that destroyed one cylinder. Besides, the stock headbolts are fine at high power levels anyway.

I'm all for doing your own headwork. Makes a big difference everywhere and helps spool. All for the cost of some bits and your time. But I will say get a book on porting so you know what you are doing and what you should aim to accomplish.

I would also do the reroute for sure. And perhaps add a 94+ factory oil cooler. Then rebuild to factory specs on the motor and boost away. Maybe add some lower compression pistons. If I ever rebuild it would be with 8:1 ish. comp. pistons.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Pat, do you have any recommendations on books about porting?
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

One I like is called something like "How to build, modify, and power tune cylinder heads". Search that and it should come up on Amazon. It's a great book.

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

Sweet!, thanks Pat.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

levnubhin

iTrader: (30)

In case the op wants it, here it is.
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Modify-P...0537519&sr=8-1
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

Scuba_Steve

iTrader: (4)

What a coincidence, I just ordered that book from Amazon yesterday. I also ordered "How to Blueprint & Build A 4-Cylinder Short Block for High-Performance".

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Sounds to me like you should do a somewhat mild build like BenR's.

Arkmage

iTrader: (3)

neither... it has to be the valve or the seat. it could be as minor as carbon build up on the valve from running way too rich. Try sea-foaming it and see if that helps.

kenzo42

iTrader: (6)

Does the water method work as well as Seafoam on the valves?

thesnowboarder

iTrader: (15)

I understand it could be that simple, but i have a bad ring as well.

What are your guy's thoughts about P&P DIY style?