"Help me figure out what cat I want" thread # 10000
01-12-2013, 06:24 PM
#22
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I went to look at the MSM and loved it, I decided I wanted to by it. But then the bank said they wanted to rape me with the interest rate so I'm going to look into some cheaper options.
First is a '94 with an LSD, clean tairless cloth interior, power windows, TEIN S-Tech Springs & Tokico Blue Shocks, Racing Beat front and rear sway bars, ENKEI RP-FI 15x7 wheels, Dunlop Star Specs, Rennenmetal Spec Miata hardtop brackets and a matching hard top. Down side is it has 136K miles so it'll need a compression test. He wants $5K for it but that ain't happannen', I'd give him $4250.
This one already has aftermarket wheels and suspension so it would only need a rollbar and break pads before the turbo kit comes.
Second is a '99, it has a torsen LSD, leather tan interior, factory bose speakers,wind blocker,power door locks/windows and the A/C works. It has oem front lip and sideskirts. Performance wise only has a K&N intake. Along with some 949 racing adjustable endlinks.
Has Garaage Star radiator cooling panel and license plate bracket. Interior is tan leather and he says it's clean. This one is for sale for $5500 and has 126K miles, but I'd buy it for maybe $4500, maybe. This one lacks the wheels and suspension but is in a bodystyle I prefer and is in a better color. Will also need compression test, rollbar, break pads, I don't know about the tires.
Both cars are fs for over bluebook and NADA value, and I could go to a dealership and find one for less but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for at a dealershop atm.
Which one is the better deal?
First is a '94 with an LSD, clean tairless cloth interior, power windows, TEIN S-Tech Springs & Tokico Blue Shocks, Racing Beat front and rear sway bars, ENKEI RP-FI 15x7 wheels, Dunlop Star Specs, Rennenmetal Spec Miata hardtop brackets and a matching hard top. Down side is it has 136K miles so it'll need a compression test. He wants $5K for it but that ain't happannen', I'd give him $4250.
This one already has aftermarket wheels and suspension so it would only need a rollbar and break pads before the turbo kit comes.
Second is a '99, it has a torsen LSD, leather tan interior, factory bose speakers,wind blocker,power door locks/windows and the A/C works. It has oem front lip and sideskirts. Performance wise only has a K&N intake. Along with some 949 racing adjustable endlinks.
Has Garaage Star radiator cooling panel and license plate bracket. Interior is tan leather and he says it's clean. This one is for sale for $5500 and has 126K miles, but I'd buy it for maybe $4500, maybe. This one lacks the wheels and suspension but is in a bodystyle I prefer and is in a better color. Will also need compression test, rollbar, break pads, I don't know about the tires.
Both cars are fs for over bluebook and NADA value, and I could go to a dealership and find one for less but I can't find exactly what I'm looking for at a dealershop atm.
Which one is the better deal?
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01-12-2013, 06:47 PM
#23
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You can go to a DEALERSHIP and find one for less? Are you... sure? Because most dealerships I see listed online have them listed for quite a pretty penny. If that '94 passes a compression test and has a good soft top as well as clean, original paint, it's easily worth close to the $5000 figure IMO. That '99, if it's as clean as the seller says, is worth also very close to his asking price IMO, not $1k less. Edit to add: if the '99 is a torsen, would that not be a 3.9? Does it have a 6-speed as well? If so, that's the better deal IMO.
Miatas almost always go for more than KBB... KBB doesn't buy and sell cars, they make crap up and hope people believe it...
Miatas almost always go for more than KBB... KBB doesn't buy and sell cars, they make crap up and hope people believe it...
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01-12-2013, 07:34 PM
#25
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You can go to a DEALERSHIP and find one for less? Are you... sure? Because most dealerships I see listed online have them listed for quite a pretty penny. If that '94 passes a compression test and has a good soft top as well as clean, original paint, it's easily worth close to the $5000 figure IMO. That '99, if it's as clean as the seller says, is worth also very close to his asking price IMO, not $1k less. Edit to add: if the '99 is a torsen, would that not be a 3.9? Does it have a 6-speed as well? If so, that's the better deal IMO.
I'm trying to go the cheap route right now, which knocks out the MSM and since I'm in Cali and whatever I get has to comply with CARB, meaning my only options are pre 2000 cars if I want a turbo. I'm going to have to look into the thrust baring issue, is there any way I can tell if the car has or may develop this issue?
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01-12-2013, 07:52 PM
#26
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Push in the clutch, and the crank will push forward as much as a 1/4" IIRC. Then you can pry back the crank with a 2x4, and repeat to your heart's content. There's a video on m.net if you wanna see it in action.
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01-16-2013, 10:10 AM
#29
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I'm sorry I didn't see your name as the OP? I agree to some extent, but this is not always the case. Maybe in your own personal experiences you've found it's easier to build your own, but for someone who has the knowledge of what they're getting into, buying something partially built or fully built has it's advantages...
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01-16-2013, 04:33 PM
#30
I'm sorry I didn't see your name as the OP? I agree to some extent, but this is not always the case. Maybe in your own personal experiences you've found it's easier to build your own, but for someone who has the knowledge of what they're getting into, buying something partially built or fully built has it's advantages...
...with that attitude you wont last very long.
But i'll let the "OP" or Gearhead address that mr. toughguy.
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01-16-2013, 06:19 PM
#32
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And just because I've lurked this forum since April 11' doesn't mean I'm "new" around here. Usually if I need information ill use the search function, find what I need, and be on my way. To be honest I don't have time to be a keyboard warrior or desire to be.
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01-16-2013, 06:37 PM
#33
Hey no need to get your little panties in a bunch. All I asked was if my original response was addressed to you. Just giving the OP something to think about, just like yourself and everyone else on this thread did. You're the one that made the bold statement with nothing to back it up.
And just because I've lurked this forum since April 11' doesn't mean I'm "new" around here. Usually if I need information ill use the search function, find what I need, and be on my way. To be honest I don't have time to be a keyboard warrior or desire to be.
And just because I've lurked this forum since April 11' doesn't mean I'm "new" around here. Usually if I need information ill use the search function, find what I need, and be on my way. To be honest I don't have time to be a keyboard warrior or desire to be.
Not sure about the 6 speed, I'll ask. The dealerships are hit and miss in the price, ive seen some cheap miatas.
I'm trying to go the cheap route right now, which knocks out the MSM and since I'm in Cali and whatever I get has to comply with CARB, meaning my only options are pre 2000 cars if I want a turbo. I'm going to have to look into the thrust baring issue, is there any way I can tell if the car has or may develop this issue?
I'm trying to go the cheap route right now, which knocks out the MSM and since I'm in Cali and whatever I get has to comply with CARB, meaning my only options are pre 2000 cars if I want a turbo. I'm going to have to look into the thrust baring issue, is there any way I can tell if the car has or may develop this issue?
Legally CARB approved performance builds are much more expensive to actually buy in CA, because of the smog scam.
Read the damn thread instead of the title.
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01-17-2013, 03:45 PM
#36
Also make sure all wiring and electronics are in good shape and not messed with.
as quite a few others on this forum I don't mind dropping a new motor in either. So my opinion may be different. I haven't had a car payment in 12 years. The only car I have that doesn't have over 200k is my audi and when or if the time ever comes I'll rebuild or replace that motor too. I'm not saying buy a car with a bad motor. Just that in 5-8 years when the motor may need a refresh (if it's in good condition when you buy it and you continue to take care of it) it's not a big deal. Will you even own the car in 5-8 years?
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01-17-2013, 04:04 PM
#37
Have a compression and leak down test done on the motor. Do physical inspection for flaws. Decide weather the compression and leak down results are reasonable. Buy or don't buy. If you don't want to do it just take it to a shop. It's worth the 75-100 bucks. If you're ready to pull the trigger why not spend the extra couple bucks?
Also make sure all wiring and electronics are in good shape and not messed with.
as quite a few others on this forum I don't mind dropping a new motor in either. So my opinion may be different. I haven't had a car payment in 12 years. The only car I have that doesn't have over 200k is my audi and when or if the time ever comes I'll rebuild or replace that motor too. I'm not saying buy a car with a bad motor. Just that in 5-8 years when the motor may need a refresh (if it's in good condition when you buy it and you continue to take care of it) it's not a big deal. Will you even own the car in 5-8 years?
Also make sure all wiring and electronics are in good shape and not messed with.
as quite a few others on this forum I don't mind dropping a new motor in either. So my opinion may be different. I haven't had a car payment in 12 years. The only car I have that doesn't have over 200k is my audi and when or if the time ever comes I'll rebuild or replace that motor too. I'm not saying buy a car with a bad motor. Just that in 5-8 years when the motor may need a refresh (if it's in good condition when you buy it and you continue to take care of it) it's not a big deal. Will you even own the car in 5-8 years?
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01-17-2013, 04:20 PM
#38
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Have a compression and leak down test done on the motor. Do physical inspection for flaws. Decide weather the compression and leak down results are reasonable. Buy or don't buy. If you don't want to do it just take it to a shop. It's worth the 75-100 bucks. If you're ready to pull the trigger why not spend the extra couple bucks?
Also make sure all wiring and electronics are in good shape and not messed with.
as quite a few others on this forum I don't mind dropping a new motor in either. So my opinion may be different. I haven't had a car payment in 12 years. The only car I have that doesn't have over 200k is my audi and when or if the time ever comes I'll rebuild or replace that motor too. I'm not saying buy a car with a bad motor. Just that in 5-8 years when the motor may need a refresh (if it's in good condition when you buy it and you continue to take care of it) it's not a big deal. Will you even own the car in 5-8 years?
Also make sure all wiring and electronics are in good shape and not messed with.
as quite a few others on this forum I don't mind dropping a new motor in either. So my opinion may be different. I haven't had a car payment in 12 years. The only car I have that doesn't have over 200k is my audi and when or if the time ever comes I'll rebuild or replace that motor too. I'm not saying buy a car with a bad motor. Just that in 5-8 years when the motor may need a refresh (if it's in good condition when you buy it and you continue to take care of it) it's not a big deal. Will you even own the car in 5-8 years?
clutch, water pump, timing belt, thermostat
Tune-up - Spark plug, fuel filter, air filter, valve cover gasket, intake cleaner, fuel treatment
Drain and fill rear differential fluid flush
Drain and fill manual transmission fluid
Remove and replace sway bar end links
Oil change <1000 miles
Oxidation on hood/front bumper
Tune-up - Spark plug, fuel filter, air filter, valve cover gasket, intake cleaner, fuel treatment
Drain and fill rear differential fluid flush
Drain and fill manual transmission fluid
Remove and replace sway bar end links
Oil change <1000 miles
Oxidation on hood/front bumper
MiataBumperCoverX.jpg photo by carsnohomo | Photobucket
I'm going to San Diego Saturday to check out a couple of other cars and I think I'm gonna have to try and see this one too. I'll have which ever one I like the most looked at and have a compression test done. Whichever car I get I plan on turboing in the near future, just a begi-s kit probably but I wan't to make sure the car can handle it.
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01-17-2013, 08:57 PM
#39
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gay bra is gay.
Front bumper has taken its share of beatings and is missing the factory lower lip.
Otherwise car looks pretty decent. At this point, with the condition and miles, I don't feel that the 10AE aspect of it adds any real value, except for a neat looking color combo and cool interior.
On the HUGE plus side, though, is that it's already got the 6-speed and type-2 3.9 torsen diff. Those two pieces, on the aftermarket (with lower miles) is worth $1200-1500, then there's the hassle of installation... But if all you're going to do is BEGI S, you don't really need the extra strength of the 6-speed, so to you personally its value is diminished. If the suspension hasn't been replaced, it should be, so those bilsteins aren't really worth anything.
Lots of things to balance. I personally like the other '99 you were looking at. Check them out in person and see which one is in better shape!
Front bumper has taken its share of beatings and is missing the factory lower lip.
Otherwise car looks pretty decent. At this point, with the condition and miles, I don't feel that the 10AE aspect of it adds any real value, except for a neat looking color combo and cool interior.
On the HUGE plus side, though, is that it's already got the 6-speed and type-2 3.9 torsen diff. Those two pieces, on the aftermarket (with lower miles) is worth $1200-1500, then there's the hassle of installation... But if all you're going to do is BEGI S, you don't really need the extra strength of the 6-speed, so to you personally its value is diminished. If the suspension hasn't been replaced, it should be, so those bilsteins aren't really worth anything.
Lots of things to balance. I personally like the other '99 you were looking at. Check them out in person and see which one is in better shape!
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01-19-2013, 06:45 PM
#40
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I went to go see the white car with the hard top today. Very nice, he even had maintenance records. I talked him down a bit and I'm gonna go ahead and try to buy it, assuming NavyFed doesn't try and *** rape me again with the interest rate, and assuming everything checks out when I have it looked at.
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