Help me hook up my air compressor
10-07-2015, 07:57 PM
#22
It could be split phase.
Either way, it could have a cap. It still doesn't matter, if you change the leads on the motorthen it will run the opposite way.
And you're absolutely right, if he doesn't touch it, no matter what hot gets what it will run the proper way. Since a shop already had it setup and running at one time.
Either way, it could have a cap. It still doesn't matter, if you change the leads on the motorthen it will run the opposite way.
And you're absolutely right, if he doesn't touch it, no matter what hot gets what it will run the proper way. Since a shop already had it setup and running at one time.
It for sure has as starting cap, wouldn't start without one.
And yes if he hooks the two hots and nuetral up it will work, motor was setup the correct direction when it was wired up as you say.
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10-07-2015, 08:05 PM
#24
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I have changed the plug twice now.moving it different places. Replacing the 6-20 plug with a 6-30 plug won't do jack if the wiring behind it is still 12 gauge.
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10-07-2015, 08:06 PM
#25
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Bottom line.
He needs this:
The machine should already have this on it. All is see is the back of it in the picture.
He needs the female end of this wired into a box in his house. Two hots and a ground.
If this is done then you SHOULDN'T need to check rotation. I would still check, but whatever do what you want it's not mine.
If you hook up a 6-20 male plug and get into the pecker head. Then good luck.
He needs this:
The machine should already have this on it. All is see is the back of it in the picture.
He needs the female end of this wired into a box in his house. Two hots and a ground.
If this is done then you SHOULDN'T need to check rotation. I would still check, but whatever do what you want it's not mine.
If you hook up a 6-20 male plug and get into the pecker head. Then good luck.
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10-07-2015, 08:06 PM
#26
I don't know, you seemed confused about the existence of the cap so I wanted to be sure.
Most compressors I've messed with have terminal blocks on the pressure switch. That should be all he needs to hook up, and it doesn't matter which gets which.
Everything more complicated happens past that terminal block, so don't reverse the leads inside the motor to the terminal block and all is well.
Most compressors I've messed with have terminal blocks on the pressure switch. That should be all he needs to hook up, and it doesn't matter which gets which.
Everything more complicated happens past that terminal block, so don't reverse the leads inside the motor to the terminal block and all is well.
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10-07-2015, 08:34 PM
#34
Measuring voltage without the compressor running won't really tell you much either. You should watch it while the thing is trying to start and run both, assuming it even will start/run without blowing the breaker. That's what will damage the compressor.
I think most the people here are optimistic thinking it doesn't run near full load amps when it runs, so I don't think you'll be too successful no matter what you do. This style compressor runs 100% wide open while it runs, but then it shuts off for a duty cycle dependent on how fast you drain it.
In other words, it's 25A for starting or bust, with 22A for run.
I also think you can adapt whatever modern motor frame you want to that compressor, it's really not that complicated.
I think most the people here are optimistic thinking it doesn't run near full load amps when it runs, so I don't think you'll be too successful no matter what you do. This style compressor runs 100% wide open while it runs, but then it shuts off for a duty cycle dependent on how fast you drain it.
In other words, it's 25A for starting or bust, with 22A for run.
I also think you can adapt whatever modern motor frame you want to that compressor, it's really not that complicated.
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10-07-2015, 08:36 PM
#35
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Yeah and since you don't own the place, it wouldn't be safe to go violating code.
You may be able to talk them into running flexible metal conduit to a location with a box of your choosing.
I wonder how hard it would be to put a 110v motor on.
You may be able to talk them into running flexible metal conduit to a location with a box of your choosing.
I wonder how hard it would be to put a 110v motor on.
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10-07-2015, 08:53 PM
#39
I just learned something new, some manufacturers have different rated beakers for different inrush current loads, basically different trip characteristics.
That's probably a AC plug, why else would it be outside? It's probably got an inductive load curve breaker, for motors.
There's another curve that apparently tolerates inrush currents for longer, but apparently it can damage inductive loads like motors allowing them to operate outside spec for longer than necessary.
Since it has a AC compressor breaker, or probably the standard residential "c" curve breaker, you might be able to switch to the "d" curve breaker. It would still pop at 12gauge safe levels, but it might be the extra bit it needs to get running if it won't now.
That's probably a AC plug, why else would it be outside? It's probably got an inductive load curve breaker, for motors.
There's another curve that apparently tolerates inrush currents for longer, but apparently it can damage inductive loads like motors allowing them to operate outside spec for longer than necessary.
Since it has a AC compressor breaker, or probably the standard residential "c" curve breaker, you might be able to switch to the "d" curve breaker. It would still pop at 12gauge safe levels, but it might be the extra bit it needs to get running if it won't now.
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