How (and why) to Ramble On your domestic shorthair - Page 1233 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 02-17-2016, 09:46 AM   #24641
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They rolled her out on a stretcher

I'll post if I find out what it was all about.

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Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
Sounds like my experience in a public restroom stall a few years ago. Same sounds in the adjacent stall, then drops of blood on the floor. i got out of there quick.
I would of done the same!
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Old 02-17-2016, 10:19 AM   #24642
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Capitalism: Guy buys $400 suspension, attempts to immediately resell for $750.

New parts: Bilstein coilover, soft top

ClubRoadster.net
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Old 02-17-2016, 10:58 AM   #24643
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Originally Posted by mgeoffriau View Post
Capitalism: Guy buys $400 suspension, attempts to immediately resell for $750.

New parts: Bilstein coilover, soft top

ClubRoadster.net




At least he didn't reuse the original pic.
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Old 02-17-2016, 11:03 AM   #24644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bahurd View Post



At least he didn't reuse the original pic.
Yup. If the seller here had been willing to ship, I'd have snapped them up too. And I would have taken many pretty photos.
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Old 02-17-2016, 06:09 PM   #24645
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Anyone have fine spray painting skillz & advice?

Contemplating painting my red MSM pieces on my door rather than sourcing new entire black doors.

I do understand they need to be cleaned first, and prep prep prep

As for the finish of black, Satin? Flat? Matte? I want to get it as close as possible to what a black door would look like.
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Old 02-17-2016, 06:10 PM   #24646
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Don't forget prep.

Plastic? Or outer door.
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Old 02-17-2016, 07:14 PM   #24647
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use one of those cheap trigger handles, and make lots of light passes.
Never stop moving the can while you spray, and once you think it's finally coated and completely dry, wait another hour before you touch it.
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Old 02-18-2016, 08:47 AM   #24648
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Spray a light coat, wait 5 minutes for it to tack up, spray a second light coat, wait again 5 minutes for it to tack up, spray a heavy coat, drop the mic - er - I mean drop the devilbiss.

Your first two light coats are there primarily to absorb the reducer from the heavy top coat. If they dry all the way, then those coats will not absorb any reducer. The absorbtion of the reducer isn't permanent; as the heavy top coat dries, the reducer will again travel between coats, this time from the first and second coat to the top coat before evaporating. If you spray the heavy coat without first spraying the light coats, you will have too thick of a layer with too much reducer which will result, at best, in orange peel, and at worst, in runs.

Regardless, if you spray too much in any one coat, you will get runs - if any part of the panel runs, then you've pretty much got to make the whole panel run, and it will still look like ****. Don't ever run your paint gun dry, or, again, the final product will look like ****.

If you're matching OEM, then flat, matte, and satin will all look like ****. Shoot automotive paint, it's almost all gloss. Also, automotive paint will stand up to the abuse of road debris hitting it at 90mph; krylon is made to stand up to the abuse of a piece of clothing occasionally brushing across it. If your parts come out more glossy than the rest of the car, then get out your polish and buffer and start going to work.
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:21 AM   #24649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Don't forget prep.

Plastic? Or outer door.
Dis,



Thanks guise



Side rant, found out my low life roommate is hocking loogies on my car
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Last edited by Girz0r; 02-18-2016 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:27 AM   #24650
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I spraypainted my bicycle helmet with a raddlecan a few months ago. A few light coats, it looked great. A 3 days later (much past the 'additional coat within 60 minutes or after 24 hours'), when removing the masking tape I noticed a few light spots, so hit it with another light coat. Fucked everythign up, it all peeled up or got wrinkley. I had to sand it all down and start over.
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Old 02-18-2016, 09:46 AM   #24651
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Hmmmmmm.... maybe I should plasti-dip them to see if I like it first

https://www.dipyourcar.com/collectio...asti-dip-black

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Old 02-19-2016, 12:57 PM   #24652
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Anyone need something like this?



Solid State Cooling Systems: Thermocube 200, 300, 400 W Air Cooled, Liquid Recirculating Chiller for Lab, Laser, Semiconductor

It's on ebay, but $500 shipped to MT.net members only.
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:03 PM   #24653
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Would it be possible to loop it into a PC water cooling system?
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:06 PM   #24654
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I would think it would actually be perfect for something like that.
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:09 PM   #24655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monk View Post
Anyone need something like this?

[IMG]http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=162881&dateline=145590 1079[IMG]

Solid State Cooling Systems: Thermocube 200, 300, 400 W Air Cooled, Liquid Recirculating Chiller for Lab, Laser, Semiconductor

It's on ebay, but $500 shipped to MT.net members only.
I almost bought one of those(for work). I think it was you who recommended it.

Edit* RO H2O
You running DI through it?
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:10 PM   #24656
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I really want that, but have absolutely no justification for something like that.
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:13 PM   #24657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monk View Post
I would think it would actually be perfect for something like that.
Really tempting but I'm strapped for monies

What sort of temps can this thing achieve? (reading site specs naow..)

Compared to liquid nitrogen extreme over clockers

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Old 02-19-2016, 01:15 PM   #24658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Girz0r View Post
The condensation in that image makes my sphincter clench.
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:22 PM   #24659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Girz0r View Post
Really tempting but I'm strapped for monies

What sort of temps can this thing achieve? (reading site specs naow..)

Compared to liquid nitrogen extreme over clockers

[IMG]http://www.miataturbo.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=162882&dateline=145590 1996[IMG]
I don't think they get far below freezing depending on the unit.

Edited because I'm an idiot.
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:24 PM   #24660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
The condensation in that image makes my sphincter clench.
I'm wondering how many thermal cycles it takes before traces start to break either within the die or on the board.


I also wonder if the money spent on "extreme" overclocking wouldn't be better used by just buying higher-performing hardware in the first place. Or is this more of a competitive thing? "Look how many Pinterist points I can score by doing something even more outrageous than this other guy!" From what little I've seen, these folks have even moved on to liquid helium, which is even colder. It boils at -269C, as compared to -195C for nitrogen.
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