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Old 01-17-2013, 09:06 PM   #15541
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That's retarded. For the kind of money they are asking for them, it's a major flaw.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:23 PM   #15542
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Our washer/dryer are in a separate laundry room, so it's a minor annoyance. If they were in a more visible or higher traffic spot in the house, I'd be pissed that we have to keep the stupid door open all the time.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:54 PM   #15543
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just leave door open and dry off gasket/tub after use. so worth it.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:49 PM   #15544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgeoffriau View Post
... mold growth around the door seal.
Have you ever fully disassembled a top-loader? As in removing the basket.

Mold city in there. Tons of it. At least in the one He top-loader that it's been my distinct displeasure to become intimately acquainted with.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:31 PM   #15545
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that's because your mom has had the same machine for the last 45 years.
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:14 AM   #15546
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+1 for knowing when to invoke the "Your Mom" clause.

-1 for exceeding the boundaries of "suspension of disbelief", however. (Hint: He washers haven't even existed for 45 years.)
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:07 AM   #15547
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Quote:
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+1 for knowing when to invoke the "Your Mom" clause.

-1 for exceeding the boundaries of "suspension of disbelief", however. (Hint: He washers haven't even existed for 45 years.)
Invoking "My Mom" clause. In 1948 my parents bought a Maytag top loading washer. It survived two moves and at least 25 years of hard work and never seemed to form mold or smell.

About 20 years ago I bought a GE top loader and although I have had to replace almost everything but the cabinet, drum, and basket; it has no mold buildup.

I have heard nothing but bad things about the newer front loaders, but the old Westinghouse front loader that filled up half with water served me very well when my son was in diapers in Germany 50 years ago.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:09 AM   #15548
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Too many sensors and electronics in the new machines as well. All it needs is a rotary timing dial and some contactors to get the job done. Less things to break is muy bueno. But I don't like electronic automotive air conditioning controls either. They replace a $2.50 cable and mixer door arrangement with a $500 digital screen/PCB/PWM motor/temp sensor system that has multiple failure points and is then built as cheaply as possible. Yay progress!
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:16 AM   #15549
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The house I am possibly looking at buying will need all need new appliances, my plan is to get the cheapest top loading washer I can find on craigslist. I am currently using one that is about 20 years old and other then a **** breaking off, just keeps chugging along. All the front loaders I have ever used have always annoyed me in general. I have to agree with everyone here that keeping it simple is the way to go.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:34 AM   #15550
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seriously dont get a front load.


any product that's designed to make things cleaner that requires this on a regular basis:



is a POS.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:48 AM   #15551
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point 1: Joe, how can you not have used dielectric grease the first time you repaired it?

point 2: the intent (beyond status) is to save limited natural resources like water, even if it costs more.

point 3: your mom does my laundry.

point 4: there is no point 5.

point 6: why do I have to buy a painted and formed piece of sheet metal when all I want to replace is the button panel graphical overlay with adhesive backing that sticks to the control panel of my washing machine/dryer? I can peel and stick. Don't they trust me?
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:00 PM   #15552
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Besides having to replace the MAP sensor that tells the computer how full the tub is once already, I like my GE front loader. No smell but we keep the door and detergent tray open to air out, and it has a sanitize cycle that it runs from time to time, with bleach.

EDIT: I do however like my old cheapass top loader better. I like it when lots of water washes my clothes.
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:30 PM   #15553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Too many sensors and electronics in the new machines as well.
Yup.

What I find really hilarious is that the machine actually plays little musical sounds (like a phone ringtone) to indicate that:
  • You have just turned it on.
  • You have just rotated the **** that selects one of the dozen or so different wash cycles.
  • You have just pressed the "start" icon to begin the cycle.
  • The wash cycle has just ended.
  • You have just turned the machine off.
I would love to have been present at the design review meeting where this feature was judged to be worthy of inclusion.



Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
The house I am possibly looking at buying will need all need new appliances, my plan is to get the cheapest top loading washer I can find on craigslist.
Honestly, the cheaper machines you can buy new are probably fine. Take the unit in my apartment, for instance. It's the cheapest-*** washing machine that you could buy in 1999 (when the complex was built) and yet it functions with absolute reliability. No matter what I throw into it, it comes out clean and well-rinsed. It never shuts down because of a faulty sensor, it doesn't try to confuse me with a hundred different types of wash cycle, it doesn't play music at me, it basically just does the one thing that you expect a washing machine to do, and nothing more. It makes dirty things clean.


Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
point 1: Joe, how can you not have used dielectric grease the first time you repaired it?
The first time, I wasn't prepared. Had no idea what I'd find in there, and didn't have any grease on me. I just burnished the pads with some find sandpaper and re-assembled.

The second time, I went to the auto parts store beforehand and picked up one of those teeny little packets of light-bulb grease.

The third time, I decided that oxidation wasn't the core problem so much as just a ****-poor contact design, hence the soldering.


Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
point 2: the intent (beyond status) is to save limited natural resources like water, even if it costs more.
I understand the underlying concept, but this is just plain greenwashing. The amount of water actually being saved is so trivial that it'd be like claiming to improve the fuel economy of a 747 by decreasing the number of sugar packets carried in the galley.



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Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
Besides having to replace the MAP sensor that tells the computer how full the tub is once already,
See, that alone is just wrong. We, as a species, managed to get along just fine for a hundred and fifty years using motorized washing machines that did not include a MAP sensor.




On the subject of front loading vs. seals vs. mold, etc.

While I was in Germany a while back, I noticed a style of washing machine which I had never seen before at a store called MediaMarkt (similar to a BestBuy in the US). It loads from the top, but into a horizontal drum. The drum has a trapdoor in the side which opens to allow access to the inside. They are extremely compact as compared to a "normal" washer, and I would imagine that they can simultaneously satisfy the fundamental concept of "front loaders work better" while also avoiding the door-sealing problems inherent to that style.

Here are a couple of examples:

BAUKNECHT WAT DR 1 Waschmaschinen gŁnstig kaufen bei Media Markt

AEG-ELECTROLUX Lavamat L76265TL3 Waschmaschinen gŁnstig kaufen bei Media Markt

And this is what it looks like with the trapdoor aligned and open:




I wonder why we don't see anything like this in the US?
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:43 PM   #15554
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I wonder why we don't see anything like this in the US?
Because Hitler tried to wage a 2-front war.*








*Godwinned.
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:46 PM   #15555
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I have so much extra fresh water that I crap into it sometimes.
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:16 PM   #15556
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Because Hitler tried to wage a 2-front war.*
So much more true than most people realize. We very nearly lost even though he did.

If they had a couple of different generals instead of Rundstedt and Von Kluge giving the Allies three extra days to build defensive positions and evacuate at Dunkirk we would have lost.

If the American carriers had been at anchor instead of conducting exercises off the coast of Oahu we would have lost.

If we had not won the Battle of Midway we very well might have lost.

If the Germans had concentrated on air superiority instead of ground attack and bombing civilian targets during the Battle of Britain we might have lost.

And if the double agents of "Max" had not fed counter-intelligence to the Germans, Stalingrad, Kursk, and the Battle of the Bulge may have turned out very differently.

More importantly, if we had not broken Enigma, we would have likely lost.

But I digress.

Both of my washing machines have timer dials. One is 20 years old this year and still works fine.
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:01 PM   #15557
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.......well, I found the exact bass that I've been looking for...this sucks so bad...
Well, this little situation turned out better than expected...

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Old 01-18-2013, 04:21 PM   #15558
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quick simple question...

my buddy's MX-6 is burning oil, obviously. But it's hard to determine what it is.
When giving it acceleration, the smoke disappears, but during deceleration it starts a cylinder mis-fire (sounds like a boxer engine)... then when we apply some throttle again, the car puffs it and starts to run normal again... We did a compression test and it seemed normal... maybe bad valve seals? He is freaking out hoping its not his rings.
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:38 PM   #15559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pen2_the_penguin View Post
quick simple question...

my buddy's MX-6 is burning oil, obviously. But it's hard to determine what it is.
When giving it acceleration, the smoke disappears, but during deceleration it starts a cylinder mis-fire (sounds like a boxer engine)... then when we apply some throttle again, the car puffs it and starts to run normal again... We did a compression test and it seemed normal... maybe bad valve seals? He is freaking out hoping its not his rings.
Sounds like valve seals to me.
How much oil does it burn?

And, does he get blue smoke at cold starts?
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:40 PM   #15560
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Sounds like valve seals to me.
How much oil does it burn?

And, does he get blue smoke at cold starts?
no blue smoke at cold starts, and only does it while warm. Thats what I thought bought he flipped the **** out
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