If FEMA had the bicycles, would it fund Hustler's manlet bib?
#1665
I'm so out of shape.
I was heavy into riding about 10-15 years ago. My focus was mountain biking, but I'd ride my mountain bike everywhere, up to 55+ miles in a day. Downhilling, cross-country, road, I did a bit of whatever my skills allowed. I almost got into racing, but the parents didn't support it, and at the time I had no other way to get to the races. Then I stopped for more than 5 years, only taking the bike out occasionally for a little ride.
I finally decided to get back into it, and it's humbling. I went on a 10 mile ride today, and was exhausted by the end. It's funny; much of the muscle memory is still there, but I just run out of steam. In some ways, riding a bike really is just like riding a bike.
I mention this because I was thinking about spinning on my ride today, too. I'm of the opinion that the faster you can do it smoothly, the better off you are. It's easier on the knees, it's efficient, it lets you stay in the saddle using your larger leg muscles longer, and in the case of a tight switchback, if ever a sudden hill catches you off-guard, you're still in a low enough gear to muscle through.
I don't believe you need a fixie to get better at this, though. Just run a lower gear or two than feels "comfortable" on your regular bike. Once you get used to that, go another gear lower.
OT but slightly related: my new bike came with (non-clipless) platform pedals. I always used to ride clipless, and I'm finding I got lazy with certain mountain-bike-specific handling skills like bunny-hopping or generally finagling the rear wheel over and around things. I'm enjoying the practice, but it's again humbling in showing me how badly I've grown to suck at certain things over the years of my laziness. One thing I'm not sure about: will going to platforms temporarily help or hurt me in developing a smoother pedal stroke? Sooner or later I do plan on getting some Time ATACs (if they still make those) or similar.
Completely off topic: Holy hamsterballs has bike suspension come a long way in the last 15 years! My new 6" travel bike is a relative rocket (relative to being 29 lbs on 2.2" tires) on the road. Even without using the lockout, the thing doesn't bob, and feels as snappy as my old hardtail did. But hit something and it just soaks it up.
I was heavy into riding about 10-15 years ago. My focus was mountain biking, but I'd ride my mountain bike everywhere, up to 55+ miles in a day. Downhilling, cross-country, road, I did a bit of whatever my skills allowed. I almost got into racing, but the parents didn't support it, and at the time I had no other way to get to the races. Then I stopped for more than 5 years, only taking the bike out occasionally for a little ride.
I finally decided to get back into it, and it's humbling. I went on a 10 mile ride today, and was exhausted by the end. It's funny; much of the muscle memory is still there, but I just run out of steam. In some ways, riding a bike really is just like riding a bike.
I mention this because I was thinking about spinning on my ride today, too. I'm of the opinion that the faster you can do it smoothly, the better off you are. It's easier on the knees, it's efficient, it lets you stay in the saddle using your larger leg muscles longer, and in the case of a tight switchback, if ever a sudden hill catches you off-guard, you're still in a low enough gear to muscle through.
I don't believe you need a fixie to get better at this, though. Just run a lower gear or two than feels "comfortable" on your regular bike. Once you get used to that, go another gear lower.
OT but slightly related: my new bike came with (non-clipless) platform pedals. I always used to ride clipless, and I'm finding I got lazy with certain mountain-bike-specific handling skills like bunny-hopping or generally finagling the rear wheel over and around things. I'm enjoying the practice, but it's again humbling in showing me how badly I've grown to suck at certain things over the years of my laziness. One thing I'm not sure about: will going to platforms temporarily help or hurt me in developing a smoother pedal stroke? Sooner or later I do plan on getting some Time ATACs (if they still make those) or similar.
Completely off topic: Holy hamsterballs has bike suspension come a long way in the last 15 years! My new 6" travel bike is a relative rocket (relative to being 29 lbs on 2.2" tires) on the road. Even without using the lockout, the thing doesn't bob, and feels as snappy as my old hardtail did. But hit something and it just soaks it up.
#1666
um, shift up?
Fixies allow you no rest. You have no bail out gear, you just go home. In pain.
In cycling its referred to as "force". And yes there are specific type of intervals for it. Generally it's seated climbing on a shallow grade at 50-75rpm at wattage just past your threshold. Form is key here. Do it sloppily and you mess up your knees. These drills will also build core strength. Focus on applying torque through a bit more of the pedal stroke than you do when spinning normally at 85-95rpm. First time you do these, don't go crazy with the wattage. Maybe just 50-100 over threshold for a minute or so. Once you have done these sets 2-3x a week for two weeks, you can start upping the force and duration. Higher the force, the shorter the duration. For road racing, you don't need to be awesome at 60rpm pedaling. If you race MTB or particularly, cyclocross, it's key. Being able to churn out ~500w @ 50rpm for 15s through a sand/mud bog twice a lap for an hour is make or break at the front. It hurts just thinking about it. Damn I miss 'cross.
Fixies allow you no rest. You have no bail out gear, you just go home. In pain.
In cycling its referred to as "force". And yes there are specific type of intervals for it. Generally it's seated climbing on a shallow grade at 50-75rpm at wattage just past your threshold. Form is key here. Do it sloppily and you mess up your knees. These drills will also build core strength. Focus on applying torque through a bit more of the pedal stroke than you do when spinning normally at 85-95rpm. First time you do these, don't go crazy with the wattage. Maybe just 50-100 over threshold for a minute or so. Once you have done these sets 2-3x a week for two weeks, you can start upping the force and duration. Higher the force, the shorter the duration. For road racing, you don't need to be awesome at 60rpm pedaling. If you race MTB or particularly, cyclocross, it's key. Being able to churn out ~500w @ 50rpm for 15s through a sand/mud bog twice a lap for an hour is make or break at the front. It hurts just thinking about it. Damn I miss 'cross.
__________________
Last edited by emilio700; 05-08-2014 at 12:57 PM.
#1669
Elite Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 2,910
Total Cats: 51
just bought some inline barrel adjusters so I can finally adjust my front derailleur to shift well. hope it works.
Raised my seat and went for a ride. AVG speed went up, even though I went on a harder ride (more hills than normal).
Disassembled my front derailleur last night to the point where the only pivot left was the pressed pin and that seems to be where I am having issues with extra tension. Going to keep oiling it and see where I can go from there. If not, the LBS Ive been using has a matching 6600 Ultegra FD for me.
So happy to be riding. Already have dropped 3lbs, even after an all inclusive trip down south.
Raised my seat and went for a ride. AVG speed went up, even though I went on a harder ride (more hills than normal).
Disassembled my front derailleur last night to the point where the only pivot left was the pressed pin and that seems to be where I am having issues with extra tension. Going to keep oiling it and see where I can go from there. If not, the LBS Ive been using has a matching 6600 Ultegra FD for me.
So happy to be riding. Already have dropped 3lbs, even after an all inclusive trip down south.
#1670
Elite Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 2,910
Total Cats: 51
Does that fender do anything besides keep mud out of your face? Your legs to your waist line would still be covered, but at that point diesnt the downtube just absorb the big mud flings?
(I don't ride in mud anymore, I forget.)
#1671
Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Posts: 1,193
Total Cats: 29
I ran one of those front fenders when we winter rode. I also ran a down tube fender and seat post fender. You still get dirty it just stops a lot of the face / mouth dirt. Dog poo, oily water etc. does not taste very good (I'm told).
#1674
Looks like it's time to change some parts. Is there any reason not to change from the current 42-32-24 fronts and 11-32 rear cogs? 90% of my rides are on the 42 front blade and gears 4-7 on the rear. I've futzed around a little on gearing calculators, but I have zero idea what I'm looking at
Looking to replace the bent shimano acero on the back too, recommendations that don't break the bank?
And yes, I know it's filthy.
Looking to replace the bent shimano acero on the back too, recommendations that don't break the bank?
And yes, I know it's filthy.
#1675
Elite Member
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Kingston, Ontario
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get another gear/ rear derailleur that has the same amount of speeds, otherwise your replacing the shifters on top of the chain/gear/derailleur.
On that note: if you wanted a wider range or a tighter spread between gears, this is the time to do it because you will be doing most of the drivetrain as is( ....just make sure your freehub can handle more gears.)
The chainrings up front don't matter as much, considering they look like they are in ok shape. Only upgrade those if you have a purpose.
This wouldn't be a bad deal for a rebuild kit for you if you wanted to go 10 speed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Sram-X9...item258d52f69f
On that note: if you wanted a wider range or a tighter spread between gears, this is the time to do it because you will be doing most of the drivetrain as is( ....just make sure your freehub can handle more gears.)
The chainrings up front don't matter as much, considering they look like they are in ok shape. Only upgrade those if you have a purpose.
This wouldn't be a bad deal for a rebuild kit for you if you wanted to go 10 speed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Sram-X9...item258d52f69f
#1677
Tour de Franzia
Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
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Broke my Flo30 free hub for the 2nd time in the middle of nowhere, paid $600 for old Zipp101s at the shop. I scoured the internet for a better option, one was not found. Did I just burn cash? Should I have gone with the Zipp30?
#1678
Elite Member
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Kingston, Ontario
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Just rode today with the strongest wind yet, and that's coming from a city that hosted Olympic level sailing.
Spinning in the granny ring and the wind blowing me all over.
Longest (psychological) ride ever.
Spinning in the granny ring and the wind blowing me all over.
Longest (psychological) ride ever.
Last edited by shlammed; 05-10-2014 at 08:40 PM.
#1680
Tour de Franzia
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Location: Republic of Dallas
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Going on another ride later today, first ride made me kind of miss the old, cheap wheels. I have a feeling I'm going to end up selling these and building a set of R45 hubs with Flo30 hoops.
Edit:
Now with more 53/39.
Last edited by hustler; 05-11-2014 at 06:54 PM.