If FEMA had the bicycles, would it fund Hustler's manlet bib?
04-12-2015, 04:56 PM
#3082
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,099
40c Nano TCS and a Stan's kit ordered. I think the perfect tire might be the upcoming 36c Clement MSO tubeless, but until that exists we'll see how the Nano fares compared to the 33c tubed MXPs.
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04-13-2015, 08:39 AM
#3084
Elite Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 2,910
Total Cats: 51
Nice setups lads.
LOL at engine building area.
I was thinkign about building a 1x drivetrain, but it doesnt seem to be worth it for my uses. i ride 99.9% road and its pretty flat here... there arent many dirt trails, so i would be doing something similar to emilio with road tires that are ok in the dirt.
I rode my carbon road bike on a dirt road last year with lots of loose gravel and rocks up to about fist size, and with 23c tire on the front... it really didnt like it. and I had to walk it up the climbs because it was too loose and the tire would just spin.
LOL at engine building area.
I was thinkign about building a 1x drivetrain, but it doesnt seem to be worth it for my uses. i ride 99.9% road and its pretty flat here... there arent many dirt trails, so i would be doing something similar to emilio with road tires that are ok in the dirt.
I rode my carbon road bike on a dirt road last year with lots of loose gravel and rocks up to about fist size, and with 23c tire on the front... it really didnt like it. and I had to walk it up the climbs because it was too loose and the tire would just spin.
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04-13-2015, 12:03 PM
#3085
Nice setups lads.
LOL at engine building area.
I was thinkign about building a 1x drivetrain, but it doesnt seem to be worth it for my uses. i ride 99.9% road and its pretty flat here... there arent many dirt trails, so i would be doing something similar to emilio with road tires that are ok in the dirt.
I rode my carbon road bike on a dirt road last year with lots of loose gravel and rocks up to about fist size, and with 23c tire on the front... it really didnt like it. and I had to walk it up the climbs because it was too loose and the tire would just spin.
LOL at engine building area.
I was thinkign about building a 1x drivetrain, but it doesnt seem to be worth it for my uses. i ride 99.9% road and its pretty flat here... there arent many dirt trails, so i would be doing something similar to emilio with road tires that are ok in the dirt.
I rode my carbon road bike on a dirt road last year with lots of loose gravel and rocks up to about fist size, and with 23c tire on the front... it really didnt like it. and I had to walk it up the climbs because it was too loose and the tire would just spin.
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04-16-2015, 10:51 AM
#3094
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Posts: 1,193
Total Cats: 29
Fatbike upgrades:
Replaced the old handlebar with an eBay carbon bar and the post with a ebay 3T carbon one. Both add some poor man's suspension and take some weight off. Helps with a hard tailed, solid forked bike.
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Replaced the factory 4" heavy tubes with these Conti lites. Old tubes were about 488 grams each and rubber rim strips were 45g. The new tubes were around 130g and I just use the red nylon rim strip that covers the large holes in the rims to hold back the tube.
That's 50 grams shy of a full pound saved per wheel and it's right at the outermost part of the wheel so it feels like 5lbs. It rides much better now. Tubes held up to some abuse so far. Side note - i tried a regular conti tube and it split parallel to a seam. Split about a foot long, seems the thinner rubber stretches better.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Replaced the old handlebar with an eBay carbon bar and the post with a ebay 3T carbon one. Both add some poor man's suspension and take some weight off. Helps with a hard tailed, solid forked bike.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Replaced the factory 4" heavy tubes with these Conti lites. Old tubes were about 488 grams each and rubber rim strips were 45g. The new tubes were around 130g and I just use the red nylon rim strip that covers the large holes in the rims to hold back the tube.
That's 50 grams shy of a full pound saved per wheel and it's right at the outermost part of the wheel so it feels like 5lbs. It rides much better now. Tubes held up to some abuse so far. Side note - i tried a regular conti tube and it split parallel to a seam. Split about a foot long, seems the thinner rubber stretches better.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Last edited by Landrew; 04-16-2015 at 01:34 PM.
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04-19-2015, 09:38 PM
#3097
BWR course published. Next Sunday. Dread.
BWR 2015 v.14 in San Marcos, CA, United States | MapMyRide
BWR 2015 v.14 in San Marcos, CA, United States | MapMyRide
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04-20-2015, 03:46 AM
#3099
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,099
Seriously unimpressed with the whole tubeless deal so far. Rear tire dropped from 40psi on Thursday night to 20psi tonight, so it's leaking from somewhere. Front tire lost 20psi overnight, so I made a second attempt tonight with Stan's rim tape instead of Velox, ran it up to 60psi, and it completely deflated inside of 2 hours. I guess I assumed that it would be a lot easier than this since the rim and tire are both specifically tubeless compatible. Not quite ready to give up, but I'm getting close.
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04-20-2015, 08:41 AM
#3100
Have you pinpointed the leak source?
Also, did you ride on the tires at all after you set them up?
Something is astray in your setup for that to happen. Stans tape needs rim bed to be spotless clean, and it needs to be stretched tight on the rim bed. A light heat-gun to help the adhesive tack to the ano surface helps.
Typically I find that the wheels need to be rode almost immediately to seal up. It flexes the casing and helps the sealant fill all the micro pores in the tire casing. Tubeless compatibility is all in the bead design of a tire, not necessarily an air-tight sidewall. Next time do a few laps around the block after airing them up.
Wost case send them to me
Also, did you ride on the tires at all after you set them up?
Something is astray in your setup for that to happen. Stans tape needs rim bed to be spotless clean, and it needs to be stretched tight on the rim bed. A light heat-gun to help the adhesive tack to the ano surface helps.
Typically I find that the wheels need to be rode almost immediately to seal up. It flexes the casing and helps the sealant fill all the micro pores in the tire casing. Tubeless compatibility is all in the bead design of a tire, not necessarily an air-tight sidewall. Next time do a few laps around the block after airing them up.
Wost case send them to me
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