hustler

iTrader: (6)

I vote for a CAAD12 with 5800 as Synapse bikes are for seniora, maybe get disc if you live in the hills. Spend $300 on shoes, be prepared to buy a saddle and pedals too.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Thanks gehz,
So basically the 105 should be moar gears, and closer together and likely smoother more seamless shifting? The bigger question, at least right now, is do I really need to ulpgrade or just keep that in mind for when I actually get good enough to need/use/feel the improvement from the better stuff?

from what I read, the sets are rated this way (plebe to balleur)
Shimano
Claris
Sora
Tiagra
105
Ultegra
Dura ace

Sram
Apex
Rival
Red

So the Tiagra would be second from cheapest on the Shimano side? I heard this bike is basically a really good frame but with mediocre components to keep cost down, so what you're saying pretty much lines up with what the pro's had to say in reviews of this particular bike. Which is fine for me, cause I'd prefer to start with a good frame and upgrade components later if needed vs bolting nice stuff onto a crummy frame.

Really excited to go check it out today

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Is this because the ones on it already likely won't fit me or because you think it doesn't come with them?

Looking into spandex clothing now too bby

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Top 3 Shimano lines are functionally more equivalent with similar actions and better finishes. The lower end ones have functional compromises. Gears can be similar across the full line.

(3) touch points: Saddle, Shoes, Handlebars. These need to fit you well to be comfortable on longer rides and not induce injury.

Yes to at least a good pair of shorts / bibs. I prefer the Pearl Izumi P.R.O. line.

Welcome to the world of cycling. Your time in Miatas will have prepared you for the ability of Motor Vehicle drivers misjudging your speed, or not seeing you. Ride defensively.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Does anyone know if the 2016 Tiagra 10 speed components, with the hidden cabling, is just the 5700 (10 speed 105) components with a different label?

I was you 10 months ago Vlad. I will help you if I can. Trey's my coach, find your own.

RE: Sav and $100 11speed 105 take off shifters and derailleurs...I have never found this. A pair of shifters alone are hard to find at $100. But then again, I'm not actively searching for 11 speed 105 anymore, things may have changed.

I have taken a 11speed 105 bike on a short demo ride, didn't think it shifted any nicer than my 10 speed 105...they both shift awesome. (The Sora stuff however...stay away. Stay far away.) My current ultegra 10 speed cassette only has one tooth between gears so the 11 speed would only give me an easier gear for climbing and I don't need that where I live.

Specialized shift better than Giant/Luv or Cannondale. Teflon cables? Dunno.

Go with Hustler's compact/ergo Cannondale C2 aluminum handlebars, $25 shipped on ebay. I love my speedplay pedals with their float. Riding my CX Cannondale with SPD pedals makes my knees hurt initially.

I prefer riding a stiff 'race' frame than a comfy 'endurance' frame. I like feeling that every ounce of output goes to moving the bike forward. I prefer good rim brakes over discs. Again, Not many huge decents by me.

Buying a good road bike has been one of the best decisions of my life. Other expensive things after you buy an expensive bike that you can live without but shouldn't: "GOOD" pedals, shoes, bibs (Voler for me), socks, helmet, sunglasses, bike computer/sensors/HRM, gloves, aerosol sun block, vest bag for spare tire/CO2 pump, water bottles and cages, chain stretch gauge, tire pump, cassette removal tool, chain whip, bike stand, chain lube, chain cleaner machine. $10/month subscription to Strava

Then come winter you will want a smart trainer, ANT+ dongle, Zwift on a big screen TV, trainer tire and wheel, fan with remote control. $10/month subscription to Zwift.

Then a cross bike to ride thru the dirt because you can't get your pretty bike dirty.

EDIT: i'm now #2 on a Strava segment. 2 seconds off first. Its only a 50 second climb (10% grade) then sprint but I will get that KOM. I love my bike.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

At least with Shimano stuff, the primary functional difference between the groups is weight. Beyond that, the higher end groups feel and are, more precise. Durability wise, the high end stuff last basically forever. The mid and lower end stuff last just shy of forever. In the end it comes down to cost vs weight, where Ultegra, Chorus and Rival offer the best $/g ratio.

Muck like the advice I give for buying race car parts, choose the correct part first, then spend any extra budget you have on getting the lightest part you can afford. Never shop for weight first.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Saddles are chosen on a perston-to-person, tant-to-taint basis. You find one that works for at least a year, then buy five of them. I will always ride $300 Giro Empires, second in importance only to the saddle. You will need pedals, so budget for that as well; I have 20,000 miles on my Speedplay Zero ChMo pedals, lubricate them monthly; on my third set of Speedplay cleats.

Specialized RBX Sport bibs are by #1 bang for the buck.

Like E said, nothing wrong with 5800 at all, you will win just as easily on 9000 as you will 5800.


SRAM is ******* terrible, omfg.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Also, you cannot buy a Synapse if you are younger than 55. CAAD12 is a fantastic bang for the buck, I'd rock one if the blue bike were abducted by aliens. Before you ask, there is not another Al bike really worth buying, yes it's quite comfy. A synapse with tire pressure at 100psi is still going to be rougher than a CAAD12 with tires at 90psi. I run 23s at 80/90 all the time, weigh 180lb, pinch flatted once where it could have potentially been avoided, but I doubt it, did not change course. If the bike shop bros tell you not to drop the pressure that low when test riding, question them. I raced at 70/80psi on Saturday, so did anyone else who was smart, rand the "Texas Cobbles" race at 85/95psi and did not pinch, ran the Corsicana Bricks crit at 80/90 and it was so rough the bicycle made noises I've never heard before but did not flat.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

I have a pair of these @ $70. Nice for the money. Long in the leg, almost to my kneecap. Voler Peloton is much better, especially when on clearance for $59. Nicer everywhere...seams, fabric, chamois, feel across the nipples, etc. About 2" shorter than the RBX Sport bibs on the leg.

I run 110psi on my 23's (155lbs dressed) and never had a flat in my 1671.7 miles thus far (knock on wood). I have a pair of 25's for the CAADX I used once, may run them a little lower on the new wheelset.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

^Manlet

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

I'll catch you someday.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Thanks for all the input fellas, I figure I'll pick up a bike first (hopefully today), then start with gear, then after riding for a bit and hopefully figuring out what I like/don't like and want/prefer, start looking at parts mentioned.

Don't want to start sinking money into parts I don't even know the function of like the typical 2016 MT.net n00bs these days
Esp since the biggest issue is likely not parts but the impressively out of shape rider

Oh and Timmah, we can all share hustler, he can fit us all with room to spare

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Die of AIDS.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

but seriously, I just brought it home. it has begun

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Tire pressures were way low. I didn't have the fitting to air up the tires. Took the bike around the block 3 times like a n00b thinking "oh it will probably be fine" and mostly because I just couldn't wait to try it out.

Now rear is flat. Luckily it came with a spare tube, but I need to pick up the little plastic tools to remove tire easily.

I iz lurning things the hard way.

Ok back to watching bike info videos.

PS: it's gorgeous and sexy and feels great and I'm seriously proud to ride it. lulz

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Congrats!

get a tube on the smaller side. Don't bother getting a fitting for an air compressor. A good tire pump works better, quicker, easier. You will be refilling the tires often.

https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Blow-S...ywords=joeblow

EDIT: A+ on thread title change.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

What did you buy?

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

fwiw, check (and try different) tire pressure every morning. I do that and I believe its a good practice since it only takes a minute with the floor pump and your less likely to have a bad time.


also, good tires are/can be a cheap way to make your ride much, much more enjoyable. Im rubbing through my pair of Michelin pro4's and should be looking for some fresh rubber some time in the next month. it honestly took my bike from feeling rough and shitty to feeling like I was on an entirely different, smooth bike.
same can be said for my carbon railed saddle. so much smoother on the bottom compared to the Ti railed saddle I had before.



Now im looking for Carbon bars that have the traditional bottom with a compact top. Ritchey calls it their neoclassic but I cant spend $300 on a handlebar.

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Or just skip straight to the cross bike and get a spare wheelset for the other discipline. With a decent enough cross bike you can accomplish everything you want to as an amateur road rider AND ride all but the most hardcore MTB trails. Not to mention, keeping up with the peloton on-road or the FS MTBs off-road while you're on a cross bike gets you kudos from the other riders. If you commute, it's nice to have a pass on wearing two-hole MTB shoes from the velominati since these are banned under The Rules for a road bike.

Downsides: a bit heavier and less aero than a road bike and not as fast downhill as a proper MTB.